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Has anyone posted a DIY for a coolant change?

I know its going to take some sort of vacuum device, but I've got one. What do I do with it?
 

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I don't think anyone has actually reached the point where they had to change their coolant.
Isn't it like a 100k mile service item?
 

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Usually 5 years or 100,000 miles. I'm do.
Which coolant is being referred to? Engine? Electronics? Battery? Engine is shown as 5 years 150k miles "Engine cooling system drain, flush, and refill (or every five years, whichever occurs first)." Nothing on the Battery coolant.
 

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Actually, my manual says 5 years or 150,000 for all three: engine, power electronics, and high voltage battery.
Huh. My 2011 manual does not have the same chart, nor recommendation. But I suspect the later guidelines should be followed, nonetheless.
 

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Which coolant is being referred to? Engine? Electronics? Battery? Engine is shown as 5 years 150k miles "Engine cooling system drain, flush, and refill (or every five years, whichever occurs first)." Nothing on the Battery coolant.
Be sure to use part number 12378390 for coolant reservoirs in front of vehicle. It's a special coolant with deionized water to prevent isolation problems of High Voltage Battery and other electronic components. NEVER ADD WATER OR REGULAR DEX-COOL COOLANT TO THESE SYSTEMS.

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1472773118.154156.jpg
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1472773226.384311.jpg
 

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As quaantumorbit has shown above, this is not really a candidate for a DIY service.
Every single coolant loop has high voltage componants that can overheat and be damaged unless the correct tools and processes are used. This includes both the Vac-N-Fill unit AND the GM scan tool (MDI and GDS2) necessary in order to activate the various "coolant loop bleed procedure" commands. These procedures run the various pumps and move the control valves in a specialized cycle that (in combination with the vaccum) is able to pull all the air out of the various nooks and crannies necessary to prevent the aforementioned damage.

NOT RECOMMENDED

WOT
 

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As quaantumorbit has shown above, this is not really a candidate for a DIY service.
Every single coolant loop has high voltage componants that can overheat and be damaged unless the correct tools and processes are used. This includes both the Vac-N-Fill unit AND the GM scan tool (MDI and GDS2) necessary in order to activate the various "coolant loop bleed procedure" commands. These procedures run the various pumps and move the control valves in a specialized cycle that (in combination with the vaccum) is able to pull all the air out of the various nooks and crannies necessary to prevent the aforementioned damage.

NOT RECOMMENDED

WOT
Agreed 100% Not a DIY job.
 

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Be sure to use part number 12378390 for coolant reservoirs in front of vehicle. It's a special coolant with deionized water to prevent isolation problems of High Voltage Battery and other electronic components. NEVER ADD WATER OR REGULAR DEX-COOL COOLANT TO THESE SYSTEMS.

View attachment 117602
View attachment 117610
FYI these premixed specialized coolants MUST be used in ALL cooling systems on the Volt. (not just the electronics and battery)
This is because the engine coolant is also shared with the Cabin Heater Control Module (CHCM) that has a 360V resistive heating element for heating the cabin.
WOT
 

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FYI these premixed specialized coolants MUST be used in ALL cooling systems on the Volt. (not just the electronics and battery)
This is because the engine coolant is also shared with the Cabin Heater Control Module (CHCM) that has a 360V resistive heating element for heating the cabin.
WOT
Correct. Here's a picture of my owner manual:
ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1472776793.344682.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the help above. It is very helpful. However, I still consider this a DIY (although an advanced one). I only need two things to complete this job:

1.) Tools to create a vacuum (can be easily purchased)
2.) A way to cycle the coolant pumps without the GM tool. Does anyone make software to run on your PC that will do this?
 

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Thanks for all the help above. It is very helpful. However, I still consider this a DIY (although an advanced one). I only need two things to complete this job:

1.) Tools to create a vacuum (can be easily purchased)
2.) A way to cycle the coolant pumps without the GM tool. Does anyone make software to run on your PC that will do this?
If you really want to do this yourself, simply replace the coolant on the reservoirs every week during a few weeks. Eventually the new coolant will end up replacing most of the old.
 

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For those that have the flushes done at the dealer, don't let them sell you one of those flush/additive service kits.
 

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If you really want to do this yourself, simply replace the coolant on the reservoirs every week during a few weeks. Eventually the new coolant will end up replacing most of the old.
I've been doing this for the last two years on the engine reservoir and the inverter.

I have not yet touched the battery as it would be obvious I'd been fiddling with it and don't want any excuse for someone to object to the warranty.

However, the stuff from the inverter is just like new, and I figure the battery coolant will be the same. They just don't get hot enough to cause any reactive processes.

The engine coolant, however, clearly changes and has become cloudy. Not badly, but it is obviously not new.

I can get around a litre out of the engine reservoir, and the capacity is around 7 I believe, so I changed it around 5 times in early winter winter, but haven't had a chance to do the same this year yet (I am presuming there is no point changing it if you aren't going to be running the engine, else you'll be sucking out the stuff you just put in!).
 

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Here's a good article explaining the procedure of bleeding HV Battery Coolant.
Yes, except that TechLink (and bulletin) was released back in 2012 when the proper coolant level was "mid-seam" however it has since been revised to the top of the black decal.

WOT
 
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