[57Chevy]

Be sure and check to see if your physical key is functional on your driver's door. When my 12V battery failed I found my key did not open the door. AAA was called out and jimmied the door open and we were able to jump start it. Was a $400.00 charge to fix a broken window regulator that interfered with the door lock. You only have one door lock, be sure your key works.

 

[Cord]

did you try the OTHER door on the other side ofthe car ? The go in the car and use the manual handle inside the volt to open the trouble door ?

 

[craby]

Hi,

I had my 2012 Holden Volt in for a service today and they've advised me that there were 'errors' when the battery was checked. I didn't receive a report so don't know what the 'errors' were, but since the battery is 6 years plus old it's probably not unreasonable to swap it out in lieu of it leaving the wife and kids stranded somewhere. The dealer wanted $380 to put a new battery in which I thought was a bit excessive (not as excessive as the $120 I got charged for a new set of wiper blades- time to shop around on those), so I checked Century Batteries and picked up one of these which they list as compatible with the Volt. It's not AGM, but it's a sealed maintenance free and came with the overflow hose etc, and its the only one I could find that was available and listed as Volt suitable.

https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/resources/battery-finder/product/battery/din53lh mf/info


Anyway, there's no mention at all in the owners manual about how to change the 12v battery. That said, I've read this thread and watched some online videos, and it looks pretty straight forward.

My only query is that I haven't found any info about whether or not I need to clamp a battery charger on the terminals to avoid any info being wiped or errors when I do the swap. From what I have read and found out, it looks like maybe the radio channels will be wiped, and that I don't need to worry about anything else. Is that still the correct info?


From what I can see, as long as I've got the car turned off per the step by step list on this thread, I shouldn't have any problems after reconnecting the battery. My thinking is that if it went flat at some point, it wouldn't wipe everything on the centre stack, and swapping the battery would be a similar situation. But I just wanted to check first before I got started on it.


Also, if anyone thinks that battery I've bought is bad for some reason, please let me know. It was $230 and I can take it back if need be and just go with the AC-Delco they wanted to fit.


Thanks very much.


craby

 

[Barry]

My understanding is that an AGM battery requires a slightly different charging profile than a standard lead acid battery, so if you put a different battery in, the car will not be charging it correctly. This will probably become a problem over time. I think you really need an AGM battery. (edit: I should have just referred you to point #7 in the original FAQ at the top of this thread)

I tried to google more information about your new battery (see link below). It appears there is an AGM battery with the same part number as your battery, however, the labeling is different. The one I found shows "AGM" as a sort of background watermark graphic on the label. Your link does not show that same graphic, and also has different CA specs. There may be both AGM and non - AGM versions of your battery model number.

If you can't find an affordable AGM locally, maybe you can order one through a local parts store. The reason I mention a parts store is that I don't know if it would be practical to ship a battery to your home address due to weight and hazardous materials issues.

https://perthpro.com.au/product/century-iss-active-agm-din53lh-mf-680cca-100rc-60ah/

 

[Barry]

@craby: Regarding your question about retaining power during the battery swap to maintain your settings, I do not think owners are typically doing that. I believe the result is that your radio presets are still remembered, but all of your other vehicle settings like how the locks and alarms and displays behave are lost and you need to reset those vehicle settings.

I also think a full disconnection typically erases the part of the computer memory that an emissions test needs to access. Where I live, there is no annual state emissions test for an EV, which the Volt qualifies as here, so this may not be a problem for you either. If it is, it may take a lot of driving cycles with the engine running to rebuild the memory enough to pass the test. I did have that problem once with an ICE car.

 

[oldstuff]

Where do I find an ignition key that this refers to so I can turn it off??

 

[craby]

Hi Barry, when I heard the price they wanted I thought it was over the top, and it was only when I got home with the new battery I bought that I found out about the AGM. Doing some reading around, I saw that alternative Century AGM and it's price, and then I realised that their $380 fitted was probably not too bad. I can get a refund on the battery I've bought okay, so I'll probably just take it back and get the dealer to fit another AC-Delco. Since there's not even any reference to the user changing it in the owners manual, I can see how it will play out if I stuff it up. Thanks for getting back to me as I was about to pull the socket set out this morning.

regards,

 

[Barry]

As a pricing point of reference (in USA) the best deal we are finding is at a membership warehouse club called "Sam's Club" that has especially good prices. US$ 120 (edit: this is currently $150, may have been on sale a few months ago when I purchased). But more common prices elsewhere are close to or over $200, and of course typically highest at the dealerships.

Good luck!

 

[jbakerjonathan]

After replacing my 12v battery this week with another OE battery from my local Chevy dealer ... paid $169, I installed the battery myself in about 20 minutes or less. In the 2 days driving since then, my estimated range has gone from 28 miles on Monday, 31 miles on Tuesday, and 34 miles Wednesday, which seems more inline with how the car's estimated range was increasing last summer during my 8 days in a row of driving to/from work. I've driven at least 49 miles on EV each of those days and will hopefully get 50 or more out of my 34 miles of estimated range. I was always amazed last year when I would get 60 miles of range on a charge, drive 2-3 miles, and still have 60 miles of range on a car that's supposed to get me 38 miles on EV.

I've also never really been "deep" into the car's EV range as to determine how many actual kWh I was using each trip, nor how many kWh are actually available for use, but I would like to obtain new knowledge as to how I can monitor this more closely now, and pay more attention to it since the car is 5 years old with 74k miles on the EV battery pack. Perhaps one of you "engineer" types can PM me and get me started down the right path to enlightenment.

Since it takes energy to keep the 12v battery charged, a bad battery is going to take more energy to keep it at the 12v level. That energy won't be available to propel the car. With a new battery that requires less energy to keep it at the 12v level, that energy now becomes available to propel the car, hence, driving further on the traction battery energy. At least, that's my theory.

 

[spaycace]

I replaced my 12v battery with no issues whatsoever. I did ensure that I had a protective cover (I used old winter gloves) for the terminals after they were removed, since power is still there from the EV battery pack. In total, it required about 15-20 minutes of my time to complete the task. Not difficult at all.

 

[spaycace]

I also didn't lose any settings on the vehicle ... none at all, radio stations, auto windows, charge settings, engine assisted heating ... everything was the way it had been before the battery swap.

 

[FI Spyder]

I'm surprised you couldn't find an alternative AGM battery as these are now pretty common and I wouldn't put in any other kind for all the reasons mentioned. I went to a dedicated battery store where I usually get my lead acid batteries for my other cars and got the story "oh, no, AGM's are expensive in the $300 to $400 dollar range". Ubiquitous Canadian Tire sells their AGM form factor 47 battery for $179.00 (almost always on sales flyer) which is $135 US pretty comparable to Sam's Club in price (and you don't have to be a member). I should think there should be something comparable in Australia although I know you do have to pay through the nose for some stuff there. I would do some shopping around.

 

[wmtunate]

Batteries Plus Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM, Item# SL147AGM,
48-month warranty
Duracell Ultra Gold AGM, Item# SLI47H5M,
36-month warranty

Heads up, but there needs to be a couple of corrections here in the first post:

Batteries Plus Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM, Item# SLI47AGM, (fixed typo)
48-month warranty
Duracell Ultra Gold AGM, Item# SLI47H5M, (this is not an AGM battery).
36-month warranty

 

[Steverino]

Heads up, but there needs to be a couple of corrections here in the first post:

Batteries Plus Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM, Item# SLI47AGM, (fixed typo)
48-month warranty
Duracell Ultra Gold AGM, Item# SLI47H5M, (this is not an AGM battery).
36-month warranty

Thanks! Adjusted

 

[floatjoy]

FYI I purchased the AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H5, 600 from Advanced Auto or CarQuest and the discount code still works as well as the rebate I believe!


1) Use coupon code RMN25 - 25% off (thx Supra!)
2) Buy through urlhasbeenblocked account - 6% AAP cashback ($12)
3) Pay with Bank of America Credit Card (first enable 10% cashback deals through Online Banking) - cap of $6
4) Post purchase EASY online rebate: $20 AAP gift card for this battery type: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com...#Batteries

5) $132 + 20 GC! Smilie = $112

Happy shopping!

 

[floatjoy]

Purchased a new 12v AGM battery and wanted to share a 25% off coupon code 🤙🏼

FYI I purchased the AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H5, 600 from Advanced Auto or CarQuest and the discount code still works as well as the autocrat rebaterebate I believe!

Advanced Auto or CarQuest and the discount code still works as well as the rebate I believe!


1) Use coupon code RMN25 - 25% off
2) Post purchase EASY online rebate: $20 AAP gift card for this battery type

 

[Foose]

Joined the dead 12v club yesterday. Went into the garage to run some Sunday errands and the Volt was dead as can be. Key fob wouldn't do anything, no blue button....literally nothing. Had to go in thru the back seat to get the battery out. And holy cow, Chevrolet could've done some simple things to make this process easier. Like, I don't know, allowing you to open the hatch with a dead battery???!!!!!! Seems ridiculous to me, but whatever. It wasn't all that difficult but trying to lift the battery out through the back seat area without dropping it or scratching anything was fun! Put the multi-meter on the 12v and it was reading 6.5v and had a dead cell. The new battery read 12.6v.

Anyway, enough complaining. Hopped online, found an AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery battery at Advance Auto for $172 after a 20% discount. Probably could've found one cheaper but didn't have the time and the dealerships were all closed, so it is what it is.

Everything seems just fine, didn't even have to reset my radio station pre-sets!

 

[FI Spyder]

Had to go in thru the back seat to get the battery out. And holy cow, Chevrolet could've done some simple things to make this process easier. Like, I don't know, allowing you to open the hatch with a dead battery???!!!!!! Seems ridiculous to me, but whatever. It wasn't all that difficult but trying to lift the battery out through the back seat area without dropping it or scratching anything was fun!

You can open the hatch from the inside with a dead battery . A small cover hides the mechanism. Not the easiest but far better than dragging the battery over the back seat.


Typically you can sense the end of battery life with a voltage reader plugged into a 12V power module before turning the car on. Also some feature or other tends to get flaky or dropped (in my case loss of compass and door lock/unlock by door handle button but it can vary.)

 

[bentbiker]

Joined the dead 12v club yesterday. Went into the garage to run some Sunday errands and the Volt was dead as can be. Key fob wouldn't do anything, no blue button....literally nothing. Had to go in thru the back seat to get the battery out. And holy cow, Chevrolet could've done some simple things to make this process easier. Like, I don't know, allowing you to open the hatch with a dead battery???!!!!!! Seems ridiculous to me, but whatever. It wasn't all that difficult but trying to lift the battery out through the back seat area without dropping it or scratching anything was fun! Put the multi-meter on the 12v and it was reading 6.5v and had a dead cell. The new battery read 12.6v.

Did you try to hook up jumper cables or charger to the battery terminals under the hood?

 

[Phil Stasik]

We've gone through 5 years and 2 months (and 122K miles) on our 2014 Volt, with no 12V battery problems, yet we decided to remove and replace it proactively. Thank you again Steverino for the great instructions! I'm including three photos for anyone who wants a look at the procedure. We bought an OEM AC Delco battery at our dealer for $220. The process was quick and easy -- in a well-lighted garage. One interesting note is that the replacement battery came with two vent holes, and the little red plastic positive (+) terminal cover had a plug attached for the unused vent hole.