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I drive 5 mins to work and charge 30 mins max if I only drove to work and back.
But I have a 2014, so I often see the EVSE light on at odd times, even though car is done charging and it's not required for battery temp - the 12V is being topped off (confirmed with OBD no HV charging).
 
My battery is at 6 years. Everything fine so far. Consider me the control for the experiment.
I am with you, I have one that is now 6 years old and one at 5 1/2 years, Both seem fine. I do think the battery will probably give some warning but not needing it for an actual starter motor seems to make them last longer. Never had a battery last this long in AZ as the heat is pretty brutal on them.
 
These two articles on lead acid batteries and VRLA batteries (includes AGM batteries) would apply to the Gen I, Gen II Volt and the Bolt 12V battery systems:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery#Absorbed_glass_mat_.28AGM.29

"AGM cells already have a high acid content in an attempt to lower the water loss rate and increase standby voltage, and this brings about short life. If the open circuit voltage of AGM cells is significantly higher than 2.093 volts, or 12.56 V for a 12 V battery, then they have a higher acid content than a flooded cell; while this is normal for an AGM battery, it is not desirable for long life."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery

AGM batteries:
- Have shorter recharge time than flooded lead-acid.
- Cannot tolerate overcharging: overcharging leads to premature failure.
- Have shorter useful life, compared to properly maintained wet-cell battery.
- Discharge significantly less hydrogen gas.
- AGM batteries are by nature, safer for the environment, and safer to use.
- Can be used or positioned in any orientation.
 
My 2014 12V battery died. Probably a combination of a cold winter in Wisconsin outside and a warm summer in Maryland. Don't make the dumb mistake I made, pulled the battery, closed the hatch while I went to get a new one, got back and realized I would be replacing the battery by climbing around in the hatch because it was locked closed. Other than that it wen smooth as silk. Thanks for an awesome sticky.
 
My 2014 12V battery died. Probably a combination of a cold winter in Wisconsin outside and a warm summer in Maryland. Don't make the dumb mistake I made, pulled the battery, closed the hatch while I went to get a new one, got back and realized I would be replacing the battery by climbing around in the hatch because it was locked closed. Other than that it wen smooth as silk. Thanks for an awesome sticky.
There is a hatch release on the inside that can be used to open it manually.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
There is a hatch release on the inside that can be used to open it manually.
Yup, pop the cover in the inside rear hatch and insert a large flat blade screwdriver. Turn to unlock the unlock the hatch.

 
Thank you so much for these instructions!!!! They worked perfectly. And I learned something new along the way -- NEVER STORE YOUR JUMP STARTER UNDER THE HATCH.

Here is my quick story. I'm on Orcas Island in Washington. My battery dies. I have a lithium ion jump starter in my Volt, but it is under the hatch that does not open when the battery is dead. Now that is a real problem. Thank goodness I had another lithium ion jump starter in my other car and could use it to charge the battery enough to get the hatch open. The Volt 12V battery was totally dead and would only charge for a few seconds. I propped the hatch open with a piece of wood and didn't let it close again.

Then I went on the search for a replacement battery. Of course, it is a special battery and NAPA didn't have it in stock. It took a week to get here (one of the disadvantages of island life when you have to take a Ferry to get here). The battery came in a week and I got the car rolling again thanks to these great instructions.

So now I have my lithium ion jump starter under the passenger seat in case this ever happens again. My car is a 2012, so I guess you only get 5 years out of the 12V battery (which cost me $161 to replace). Maybe I need to just replace it every 5 years automatically (July 2022).

Thanks again. This site is awesome!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I guess you only get 5 years out of the 12V battery (which cost me $161 to replace). Maybe I need to just replace it every 5 years automatically (July 2022).

Thanks again. This site is awesome!
6 years and 3 months on my 2011 12V and going strong. Glad you found the info from our members helpful! :)
 
Today, 9-6-17, I bought the DieHard AGC battery noted in the post above online. Got an online discount, plus a 20 off coupon. Cost of battery including taxes was 159 bucks. Then, when I got to the service center I was attacked by a bout of lazyness, and paid them 29 bucks to install it for me. Now my 2011 Volt has a new battery! Many thanks for this thread! Your Sears estimate was right on target.

I also have always been a fan of the Sears DieHard battery - just like the name. And love the Bruce Willis movie. Had to go with the DieHard!!!

Oh, I do have one question. All my 12V battery experience is from my old ICE cars, and anytime I changed a battery the terminals were corroded and very dirty/nasty. When I looked at my 6 year old battery today the terminals were shiny and like new. What's up with that??? I had zero corrosion on either positive or negative terminals.
 
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Getting my 12V battery replaced as well as all coolants replaced tomorrow. My 2013 was built in late 2012 so it is just about 5 years old. I haven't had any problems with either the 12V battery or the coolant, but the coolant is due to be changed and the 12V battery is preventative maintenance.
 
My early 2011 12V battery is still going strong,just gave it a full cycle test (any test other than a full cycle test is not accurate, despite claims by quick tester manufactures). My battery put out over 20 amps for over 80 minutes. The end of discharge curve is getting sharper witch is an indication that it will need to be tested again before winter.
 
I am with you, I have one that is now 6 years old and one at 5 1/2 years, Both seem fine. I do think the battery will probably give some warning but not needing it for an actual starter motor seems to make them last longer. Never had a battery last this long in AZ as the heat is pretty brutal on them.
Well a while back the 2012 battery died, flatbed to dealer, tow driver would not jump it. Wife and I drove her 2011 to get mine and we switch hers out with a while you wait at dealer. Prices were "reasonable", $259 installed, insurance covered the tow.

BTW there was absolutely no warning like a flaky car function like you might get from a ice car. I was running errands and made 2 or 3 stops with the 2012. The last stop was the killer. I would think that monitoring the 12v battery voltage might be a good warning, easy to do for GM.
 
I was not going to replace mine tell Solar Dave did his :)

Mine is 7 year old and the Voltage is almost at 12.00 volts after a shutdown but now 12.25 during this hotter weather.
When it hit 11.9 it was going to get changed.
I have been watch the voltage for 7 years with a power port digital voltmeter.

About the replacement battery see the battery FAQ but :

Well as Amazon knows more about me that I would like
When I clicked your link it said
This does not fit your:
2012 Chevrolet Volt ???

Some reports say some series 47 come very close but a bit too tall
so check :

Hight -Width-Length - which side is positive and vent/purge hole location.
 
I was not going to replace mine tell Solar Dave did his :)

Mine is 7 year old and the Voltage is almost at 12.00 volts after a shutdown but now 12.25 during this hotter weather.
When it hit 11.9 it was going to get changed.
I have been watch the voltage for 7 years with a power port digital voltmeter.

About the replacement battery see the battery FAQ but :

Well as Amazon knows more about me that I would like
When I clicked your link it said
This does not fit your:
2012 Chevrolet Volt ???

Some reports say some series 47 come very close but a bit too tall
so check :

Hight -Width-Length - which side is positive and vent/purge hole location.
when i search for the part number that's in the battery FAQ, that's the one that comes up...i did of course however notice as you said that amazon says it doesn't fit the gen 1 volt. that's why i was asking for someone here to confirm...
 
I could not find a good u-tube video of changing the Volt 12v battery.
If you find one or make one let us know.
 
Video one : after removing the battery hold down strap the video seems to switch to another car and a regular lead acid type battery.
good coverage of most safety steps but no vent tube steps.

Video two : they did not open the back hatch and worked from inside the car and used a battery shorting tool ie a crescent wrench but still a good video to see most steps.
 
Video one : after removing the battery hold down strap the video seems to switch to another car and a regular lead acid type battery.
good coverage of most safety steps but no vent tube steps.

Video two : they did not open the back hatch and worked from inside the car and used a battery shorting tool ie a crescent wrench but still a good video to see most steps.
 
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