[dvancleve]

Unless your daughters are unusual in their mechanical abilities, I'm very skeptical about this. Have they viewed the videos and feel comfortable with the project? Do they have any friends in the LA area who are used to working on vehicles, at least to some extent? Availability of such things as a bungie cord to hold up the hatch floor would be nice.

I just recently did the swap on my original '13 battery. Is your battery the original? Showing signs of failure? In what part of the LA area are they located?

Well my older succeeded in ordering and installing new passenger side mirror glass after an unfortunate backing-up-to-pump-gas incident, and the younger has a boyfriend who I presume has used a hand tool or two. I think between them and/or using Facetime we can get it done. I suspect the battery is original, but I don't know. The original owners had EVERYTHING done at dealerships, so it is a GM/AC Delco battery but might not be original. It looks to me like the hardest part is getting the plastic bus bar assembly unclipped on the + side, for the videos I watched...

Thanks, Doug

 

[hellsop]

There will be a manufacturing date code on the battery. If it's not before the car's manufacturing date code on the doorjamb sticker (I think that's where it is, anyway), then that suggests that the battery was replaced. If it isn't, well.... shelftime counts for aging for acid batteries too.

 

[gthomson]

Anyone with a 12V battery that's over 4 years old should consider proactively replacing it. These cars start doing weird things when the batteries get weak.

My battery in a 2013 was replaced with a regular lead acid battery before I got it, and I've had it about 5-6 years. Looking to replace the battery with an AGM now.

So when you say 'weird things', might that include the recharging door not opening?
The problem with mine isn't the often cited problem with the hinge pressure.
So I was thinking it was the actuator, and bought a new one, but haven't done that replacement, yet.
But maybe replacing the battery will actually fix that?
It's not consistent on when it fails to open. Or why it then does start to open at some point.
So that seems weird.

 

[Steverino]

My battery in a 2013 was replaced with a regular lead acid battery before I got it, and I've had it about 5-6 years. Looking to replace the battery with an AGM now.

So when you say 'weird things', might that include the recharging door not opening?

Likely not. Weird things = lots of errors for many different systems.

Having a lead acid battery in the rear off-gassing is not a good idea. Corrosive to metal and your health.

 

[bbilledeaux]

Just replaced my 2014 OEM battery after 96K and 9 years of reliable service. Will be traveling a lot and figured 9 years was enough to ask of a battery. Since the last one performed so well, bought another OEM at the dealer for $250. Took about 30 min to install. One difference is that I put a battery charger on the jumper point under the hood, so I didn't have to reprogram anything. Just have to be careful when setting the positive post aside when removing the battery. Since the whole post is in a plastic box, it's really not hard to do it safely.

 

[imanjunk1963]

Just replaced my 2014 OEM battery after 96K and 9 years of reliable service. Will be traveling a lot and figured 9 years was enough to ask of a battery. Since the last one performed so well, bought another OEM at the dealer for $250. Took about 30 min to install. One difference is that I put a battery charger on the jumper point under the hood, so I didn't have to reprogram anything. Just have to be careful when setting the positive post aside when removing the battery. Since the whole post is in a plastic box, it's really not hard to do it safely.

I was going to ask if you put a jumper on the front posts. I am due for a change now going on 10 years. My dealer would install it for what you paid for just the battery. One suggestion on installing per the point you made on pos terminal is to wrap and tape or just tape it up to avoid it touching other metal.

 

[TripleAech]

I'm not sure a jumper is needed to maintain any settings. I had no issues when I changed my 12v battery, or when I disconnected the battery to change out a wire harness. Just sharing my experience.

 

[Steverino]

I'm not sure a jumper is needed to maintain any settings. I had no issues when I changed my 12v battery, or when I disconnected the battery to change out a wire harness. Just sharing my experience.

I did not use any cables either, just disconnected and swapped out the battery. I think I lost the mile estimate, but that comes back just by driving the car.

 

[tk3000]

Hello Folks,

I have Chevy Volt 2013 Premiere. It has only about 44,000 miles on it. So far, the car has been amazing and never gave me any issue.

Some time ago, I decide to check out and test the 12V battery since it is almost 10 years old. Upon accessing the battery, by removing the trunk floor, it was remarkably clean (no signs of corrosion or sulfation at all). Checking the voltage with a multimeter, with car off and unplugged for one day, I obtained readouts of about 12.3VDC.

Then, I proceed to test the battery with two battery testers (KW2008 and ANCEL BA201). The following are pics with the results in chronological order:

(first time I run the test, even having driven the car for over 10 miles, I consistent got that result: "Charge - Retest")

(After about 24 hours with the car parked and unplugged, the next day the tester showed the above results)

With a different tester (Ancel BA201), few minutes after performing the previous test (2nd pic):

The car does not seem to demand much from that 12V AGM Battery (AC Delco, 600CCA, 60Ah) given that whenever I turn the car on (not the engine) I could measure a voltage of about 14 VDC at the battery terminals with a multimeter and the battery did not have to crank any starter motor or anything. Similarly, whenever the car is plugged-in, I could detect a voltage of about 13.5VDC at the battery terminals; thus, indicating that the battery is always been topped off.

Is a battery replacement overdue?

Thanks for any insights.

 

[scottf200]

Hello Folks,

I have Chevy Volt 2013 Premiere. It has only about 44,000 miles on it. So far, the car has been amazing and never gave me any issue.
Some time ago, I decide to check out and test the 12V battery since it is almost 10 years old. Upon accessing the battery, by removing the trunk floor, it was remarkably clean (no signs of corrosion or sulfation at all). Checking the voltage with a multimeter, with car off and unplugged for one day, I obtained readouts of about 12.3VDC.
Then, I proceed to test the battery with two battery testers (KW2008 and ANCEL BA201). The following are pics with the results in chronological order:
(first time I run the test, even having driven the car for over 10 miles, I consistent got that result: "Charge - Retest")
(After about 24 hours with the car parked and unplugged, the next day the tester showed the above results)
With a different tester (Ancel BA201), few minutes after performing the previous test (2nd pic):
The car does not seem to demand much from that 12V AGM Battery (AC Delco, 600CCA, 60Ah) given that whenever I turn the car on (not the engine) I could measure a voltage of about 14 VDC at the battery terminals with a multimeter and the battery did not have to crank any starter motor or anything. Similarly, whenever the car is plugged-in, I could detect a voltage of about 13.5VDC at the battery terminals; thus, indicating that the battery is always been topped off.
Is a battery replacement overdue?
Thanks for any insights.

You left off many details like the general area of the country and temperatures. Garaged, out in sun during the day in a parking lot, etc. All indications are that heat shortens battery life.
Are you the original owner and you know the battery is 10 yrs old? There should be a mm/yyyy date on the battery.
If it was me and it > 5 yrs old then I'd replace it. Especially if you need to rely on this as a daily and don't have an immediate backup.

 

[tk3000]

You left off many details like the general area of the country and temperatures. Garaged, out in sun during the day in a parking lot, etc. All indications are that heat shortens battery life.
Are you the original owner and you know the battery is 10 yrs old? There should be a mm/yyyy date on the battery.
If it was me and it > 5 yrs old then I'd replace it. Especially if you need to rely on this as a daily and don't have an immediate backup.

Not the first owner, but I own the car since 2015 (it was almost new and in new condition when I bought it). I assume that the 12V battery was never replaced given that it is very unlike for a battery to fail in 1 and 1/2 years. I will double check the date on the battery for good measure.

I am in Central Ohio (Columbus). The car spends almost all the time inside a garage, and I don't drive it often or every day and usually short distances (less than 10miles on average)

Yeah, I agree, it is a good idea to replace; it is probably due to fail soon.

Would this one be a good replacement and a good fit: "ACDelco EVLN2AGM Automotive AGM Battery"?

-tk3000

 

[scottf200]

Not the first owner, but I own the car since 2015 (it was almost new and in new condition when I bought it). I assume that the 12V battery was never replaced given that it is very unlike for a battery to fail in 1 and 1/2 years. I will double check the date on the battery for good measure.
I am in Central Ohio (Columbus). The car spends almost all the time inside a garage, and I don't drive it often or every day and usually short distances (less than 10miles on average)
Yeah, I agree, it is a good idea to replace; it is probably due to fail soon.
Would this one be a good replacement and a good fit: "ACDelco EVLN2AGM Automotive AGM Battery"?
-tk3000

Sounds like your car is operating in an ideal environment.
I've only gotten Volt batteries from O'Reilly Auto as listed in the 1st post.
It does look like the one you listed is also mentioned in the 1st post (and table) so you should be good. The 12v Volt batteries don't have a "hard life" since they don't crank an engine!

 

[tk3000]

Hello Folks,

Two questions that I forgot to mention... 1) Is it indicated, recommended and/or safe to use an emergency power supply cable (one end connected to a 12v battery and the other to the OBDII port); 2) some newer vehicles need to be informed that the 12V battery is new -- the ECU would deploy different charging strategies depending on the age the of the battery. Are any of those recommended or required in a Chevy Volt 2013.

 

[scottf200]

Hello Folks,

Two questions that I forgot to mention... 1) Is it indicated, recommended and/or safe to use an emergency power supply cable (one end connected to a 12v battery and the other to the OBDII port); 2) some newer vehicles need to be informed that the 12V battery is new -- the ECU would deploy different charging strategies depending on the age the of the battery. Are any of those recommended or required in a Chevy Volt 2013.

I have never heard of such a thing here nor anything like this: (one end connected to a 12v battery and the other to the OBDII port)
In any event, the first post in this thread is the FAQ based on many folks experience so that is where it would have been mentioned.

 

[tk3000]

I have never heard of such a thing here nor anything like this: (one end connected to a 12v battery and the other to the OBDII port)
In any event, the first post in this thread is the FAQ based on many folks experience so that is where it would have been mentioned.

Sorry, maybe the proper name would be "memory saver". Basically, it is used to keep the contents (radio programing, any obdii code, etc) of the memory once the 12V battery is disconnected. The following is an example:

Amazon.com

 

[MikeBCo]

memory saver

not needed.

 

[vap3]

any suggestions to buying a 12 volt in Canada? better to buy it online or from a popular store? Didn't realize mine is 11 years old!

 

[scottf200]

any suggestions to buying a 12 volt in Canada? better to buy it online or from a popular store? Didn't realize mine is 11 years old!

Did you do call or do any searches at popular Canadian "AutoZone" stores.

Just use this this criteria:
"Any AGM that's the right form factor ("Group 47") should be fine. Make sure the negative terminal is toward the car's front right position, positive is front left. When choosing between different batteries, go for highest reserve capacity (the number of minutes a battery can maintain a useful voltage under a 25 ampere discharge) rather than Cold Cranking Amps, or Amp Hours."

 

[vap3]

A forum member said they managed to upgrade to a group AGM group 48 battery for more capacity and making it fit by bending a few brackets, is this true?

 

[Steverino]

A forum member said they managed to upgrade to a group AGM group 48 battery for more capacity and making it fit by bending a few brackets, is this true?

True or not, why go through that effort? More capacity for what? The 12V doesn't turn the gas engine, it just boot's up the computer systems. Go with the standard AGM battery. Don't forget to reattach the vent tube.