[Heli_Guy]

I finally managed to gather all the parts and have decent weather to install the COB LED Angel Eye Halo as a very affordable DIY illuminated charging port.

For full detailed step by step procedure, follow my instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Chevrolet-Volt-DIY-Illuminated-Charging-Port

 

[Roostre]

Nice!

I'm wondering if this would work on a Gen1 by using a timer and a port switch of some kind.

 

[Heli_Guy]

Nice!

I'm wondering if this would work on a Gen1 by using a timer and a port switch of some kind.

I'm not familiar with the Gen-1. In my install I utilized the same harness pins that would work with the originl illuminated charing port accessory.

You need to verify the physical dimensions of the Gen-1 charging port and cross reference with the physical dimensions of the COB LED modules, check the measurements in the dimension diagrams: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-headlight-accent-lights/led-angel-eye-headlight-accent-lights-cob/2797/5849/#tab/Specifications See specifications of the 80mm I used for Gen-2 in photo below taken from this link.

You should try to measure the charging port on the Gen-1 to verify the fit, preferably with a calliper.
If the Gen-1 has no dedicated pins to illuminate the charging port when its door is open, you can either add a micro switch to the charging port door, or hook up the LED in parallel to the interior lighting, so when the driver door is open the charging port illuminates also.

Sorry I can not be of further assistance, as I never owned the Gen-1.

 

[Sly Bob]

Yes really nicely done but I too would love a gen 1 solution. Is the instructable link a permanent one or does it expire after a period of time. The information there will no doubt be VERY helpful to people years from now and it would be a shame if it expired.

 

[voganni]

Gen 1 does not lend itself to a round ring, I checked. There's that gasket on the door that surrounds the receptacle and slides into the cavity surrounding it. Cool idea too.

 

[Heli_Guy]

Gen 1 does not lend itself to a round ring, I checked. There's that gasket on the door that surrounds the receptacle and slides into the cavity surrounding it. Cool idea too.

If the base isn't round, you can use a flexible LED strip, which can bend in almost any direction and also be cut to length: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-tubes/led-tube-lights-super-flexible-led-rope-lights/2959/

 

[Sly Bob]

Will the Instructable like expire?

 

[Sly Bob]

Gen 1 does not lend itself to a round ring, I checked. There's that gasket on the door that surrounds the receptacle and slides into the cavity surrounding it. Cool idea too.

Behind the silver cover on the Gen 1 you could put LEDs that's not the issue but figuring how to hook them up is. I wish we had a vendor here that could put a kit together. Either that or someone far smarter than me that could figure out how to mimic the operation of the gen 2 light.

 

[Heli_Guy]

Will the Instructable like expire?

I don't see any reason why it should expire.

 

[Fyodor]

Behind the silver cover on the Gen 1 you could put LEDs that's not the issue but figuring how to hook them up is. I wish we had a vendor here that could put a kit together. Either that or someone far smarter than me that could figure out how to mimic the operation of the gen 2 light.

For a Gen1 a simpler solution might be to incorporate some kind of light into the EVSE, in or near the connector. My level 1 EVSE already has it.

If truth be told, I never missed that light since muscle memory kicked in after a couple of connections.

 

[Heli_Guy]

I would place a flexible LED rope behind the silver bezel: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-tubes/led-tube-lights-super-flexible-led-rope-lights/2959/

I would hook it up in parallel to the the interior car cabin lighting, so when driver door is left open, the interior cabin light is illuminated and so is the charging port.

 

[Fyodor]

I would place a flexible LED rope behind the silver bezel: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-tubes/led-tube-lights-super-flexible-led-rope-lights/2959/

I would hook it up in parallel to the the interior car cabin lighting, so when driver door is left open, the interior cabin light is illuminated and so is the charging port.

That seems awkward to me, especially outside in the rain.

 

[Sly Bob]

Someone will figure this out. I'd like to find a timer that would keep the light on maybe 30 seconds after the charge door is open using the switch on the door.

Have to look at wiring diagrams...

 

[Heli_Guy]

You could use a proximity switch, like this one, that powers the LED light when the charging door is opened: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/pir-sensor-and-proximity/isensor-universal-proximity-switch/1116/2636/

or motion detector: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/pir-sensor-and-proximity/mini-pir-motion-sensor-switch-w-built-in-timer/1413/3133/

or

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/pir-sensor-and-proximity/dusk-to-dawn-pir-motion-sensor-switch/831/2063/

or

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/pir-sensor-and-proximity/intelligent-pir-motion-sensor-switch/969/

 

[Sly Bob]

This looks like a handy little timer...

https://www.amazon.ca/Timer-Delay-R...e-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&pf_rd_i=desktop

Would like a timer so the light is not on all the time that the door is open.

 

[Mister Dave]

I'm curious why you would solder connector pins which probably don't need it (but that's fine) and then use butt splices on the wires instead of soldering the wires and using heat shrink.

The butt splice is the least reliable connector you can use on a car.

 

[Sly Bob]

I was actually thinking the same as you Dave. Thought maybe he didn't know how to solder until I saw the first pic in your post of the soldered connectors.

 

[Mister Dave]

I was actually thinking the same as you Dave. Thought maybe he didn't know how to solder until I saw the first pic in your post of the soldered connectors.

He owns a proper crimp tool for the butt connectors (I have one too). Perhaps not so for the connector pins, or maybe the skills to use a less expensive tool like this:

I've used this one on connector pins, but it takes a bit of knowing how. It's not a one step thing to get the tabs to bend in on the wire properly.

Not trying to cast aspersions, just curious.

Edit to add....

This crimp looks good:

This one may have had too much solder:

Might work out better to crimp before soldering these if you feel the need for solder.

 

[Coppersnowboarder]

A headlamp is easier. http://www.target.com/p/energizer-6-led-headlight/-/A-11234023?lnk=rec|pdpipadh2|viewed_bought|pdpipadh2|11234023|0

 

[mhguy]

This looks like a handy little timer...

https://www.amazon.ca/Timer-Delay-R...e-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&pf_rd_i=desktop

Would like a timer so the light is not on all the time that the door is open.

That's a great timer! I am currently using it to delay my backup camera to bridge the "black screen" time and it works great. http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?269409-Backup-Camera-Black-Screen-Solved! I would use this timer triggered by wire 3696 (pin 30 of relay KR119 in the under-hood fuse holder) which is the line to the Charge Port Door Actuator on my MY2013. The light would come on when you press the button to open the charge door and would stay on for whatever time you program into the timer, perhaps about a minute.

Dick