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Discussion Starter #1
I've been looking around for various charging solutions and ways I might be able to start charging on the regular at home, and I keep coming to this $300 price point as an adamantine floor for suitable EVSE, even in DIY price breakouts for stuff like OpenEVSE.

Does anyone have any ideas or know any black magic for acquiring EVSE for low/no cost up front? I live in Columbus, Ohio in the US, which just recently won a smart city development prize, but I don't see any initiatives for home EV charging. The current plan (for me anyway) involves begging/borrowing the appropriate tools, conduit, and wiring to run to a lockable box I'm going to install on a post in my back yard where I can hang my OEM EVSE and plug it in with significantly mitigated risk of theft, but I wonder if I can do better than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I've been eyeballing this one for a permanent installation outside, since I believe at 16 amps I can still drive home from work, plug in, unwind, and still make it to the grocery store and back before they close on the accumulated charge if I don't drive like a maniac. https://store.clippercreek.com/featured/lcs-20-lcs-20p-16-amp-level-2-ev-charging-station

I really like that Clipper Creek incorporates locks and holsters, even in their low cost models.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've been using the one that came with the car for all at home charging. Do you have yours?
I do! I just got mine a day or two ago from the dealership, since the original owner didn't have it, and I made them sign docs agreeing to provide one before I'd put pen to paper anywhere else. They came through, and now I just need to figure out a way to charge without the fear of having my EVSE stolen or getting stuck in the mud in the back yard. Incidentally, I'm also trying to figure out DIY gravel parking pad construction. Apparently it's easy-ish to do, but easy to get wrong, too.
 

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There are also still several areas where power companies are running rebates and assistance programs for EV. I just missed one in my area of Va that would have paid for 50% of the purchase price of a lev 2 charger (because they are trying to get people to charge off peak hours)
 

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volt lock evse.jpg IMG_1207.jpg
Cheapest is using your existing L1 EVSE with a high quality extension cable. Keep EVSE in a tote with padlock around the J-plug cord and a steel cable that is looped around something fixed on the property. I've done this for years. I have a friend who does similar, but omits the padlock, and he hasn't had issues either. I prefer to make my own extension cable so that it is as short as possible and I can use good connectors... easy to do at Home Depot.
 

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keep watch on EBay and craigslist.

i got a used L2 evse for ~$150.

fortunately my incoming electrical service breaker panel is already in my garage, so it was a simple matter to add a short wiring and breaker addition with a plug to match my used L2 cord.

Prior to the L2 addition, I ran a (gasp) HQ heavy gauge (25ft 12/3) 110v extension cord to the OEM Level 1 cord.

I tested extensively while physically monitoring (working in garage all-day and monitoring wall outlet and cable temp) before trusting with over night charging.
 

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I do! I just got mine a day or two ago from the dealership, since the original owner didn't have it, and I made them sign docs agreeing to provide one before I'd put pen to paper anywhere else. They came through, and now I just need to figure out a way to charge without the fear of having my EVSE stolen or getting stuck in the mud in the back yard. Incidentally, I'm also trying to figure out DIY gravel parking pad construction. Apparently it's easy-ish to do, but easy to get wrong, too.
What did they give you? It may be moddable for L2 charging.
 

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What did they give you? It may be moddable for L2 charging.
My thinking as well. Maybe send pics to ChrisTX and see what it actually is. If it's a 2016 or newer model OEM EVSE, there is no modification necessary to charge at 220v.

Ah. I see he responded to the thread.

If you're going to spend money and time to install a backyard charge station, might as well run two hots so it can be 220v.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yup. The plan right now is to run 240v on a 30 or 40 amp rated line buried and in conduit, then up a post and into a lockable, outdoor load center with a secondary, non-portable EVSE either enclosed or mounted on the pole with it.

Something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-100-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Outdoor-Main-Lug-Load-Center-HOM612L100RBCP/100143240

I've been thinking about doing the modification to my OEM EVSE to make it L2, I just need to grab the model number and version info so I know what gen of the equipment I have and whether or not its even necessary. Right now, though, I don't have any accessible 240v outlets I can tie in to to charge anyway.

Does anyone have any experience with GE Durastation equipment? I'm finding it on eBay for around the same price as equivalent assembled OpenEVSE kits (at least I presume they're OpenEVSE inside) that people are selling, and the enclosure looks to be the right NEMA rating for safe outdoor installation up here in the frozen North.

I was able to sweet talk the wire off a friend who has extra from a project, the services of an electrician who's a friend of a friend for free/nearly free, the tools from a local tool library, and it'll be my own labor to get it installed, further driving my costs down. That should leave some wiggle room for some EVSE to be permanently installed if I'm careful to keep the installation costs of my gravel pit parking pad down by using waste gravel from the local masons, borrowing the tools for that project, and digging the pad's footprint myself.

RE the Voltec l2 mod, are there any issues with watertightness or heating of the cable connected to the J1772 head reported by folks who have had the modification done? I know I'm getting ahead of myself, and it might not even be a point of concern (if I have a cordset that doesn't require modification), but I'm still a little curious.
 

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The standard Voltec EVSE that comes with the '13 should easily handle the 220, including the J1772 head and cord. I believe it's rated up to 300V. The cord should have the wire rating printed on it. As for the watertightness of the modified unit, it should be similar to OEM provided you follow the directions in the video demonstrating how the conversion is done. If you feel it needs additional protection, you could also put it into a weather resistant enclosure to prevent it from directly being exposed to the elements.
 

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I've been thinking about doing the modification to my OEM EVSE to make it L2, I just need to grab the model number and version info so I know what gen of the equipment I have and whether or not its even necessary.

RE the Voltec l2 mod, are there any issues with watertightness or heating of the cable connected to the J1772 head reported by folks who have had the modification done? I know I'm getting ahead of myself, and it might not even be a point of concern (if I have a cordset that doesn't require modification), but I'm still a little curious.
If your EVSE has a handle and has screw holes in the back, it's the proper 2013-early 2014 Voltec EVSE that is OEM from Clipper Creek.

As for the weather seals, once you open it up, you'll see the gray seals and the channels they go in. Also, make sure the two big wire grommets are put back into place. Please make sure to watch my video carefully, especially when making the L1 adapter. PM me if you need any help. Be watchful for any rogue solder, and good luck!
 

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As far as getting an EVSE at low cost, my local municipal electric company covered 50% of my EVSE and it's installation (although I installed it myself). So that's worth checking out if you can.
 

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I'll add that you might be able to save some money on running wire to the outside post if you go to an electrical supply house. I saved about 50% by doing that vs. Home Depot/Lowes. I had to run 70 feet of #6 to an HVAC unit. Maybe it isn't like that in OH, but it sure was in Florida... It may not be worth it if it's a small run, but since you are cash strapped it might be.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a temporary solution that has been working for me, although I'm going to stop as soon as I have a viable alternative.

Combined with a medium duty 100 foot extension cord, my L1 EVSE reaches all the way from the laundry room on the back of the house to a fencepost, and then back across the yard to the car, but only just. I run it all at 12 amps, and the temperatures of the cords never rise above room temperature, although I fear that this won't be the case once the weather starts to warm up (it's below freezing right now). I have a bike lock and cable that I thread throught the fence and around the fence post that I secure to the handle of the EVSE, and a "heavy duty" (Master #5) lock that I thread the extension cord, EVSE tail, and bike lock cable through to provide strain relief and prevent unintentional disconnection of the circuit. That's good enough to charge it from empty to 100% before I have to head to work as long as I plug in before midnight.

When my taxes come in, if I have more than $1000 to spend, I should be able to get my gravel pit poured, grab a hard-wired clipper-creek LCS-20 or HCS-40 to stick on a post, and still be able to run some solid core from the cellar where our breaker box is out to a little hut I've sketched out plans for (seriously, it's a sketch, but I think I have a good idea of what I'll need to build it.)

https://tinkercad.com/things/dwKOn9oNW85

Even if I have to buy my own wire, I should have a BOM that works out roughly to:
$100-$200 for 100ft of the 3 conductor + ground 6 AWG solid copper USE (I need to run this by an electrician)
$50 for the 100' of conduit
$400-$550 for the EVSE
$13 for the post
$10 for the concrete
$50-$100 for the landscaping fabric
$200 (including delivery!) for the gravel
$̶1̶0̶5̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶8̶ ̶r̶a̶i̶l̶r̶o̶a̶d̶ ̶t̶r̶e̶s̶t̶l̶e̶s̶ On second thought, maybe I don't want creosote soaked time bombs in my back yard.

The more I think about it, the more I think I might like to just carve some channels under where my wheels are and just pour gravel in a double strip... I'm getting off topic.

The point is, I think I might just be able to pull this off without having to sell my grandmother, which is preferable if possible. Hope! There's hope!
 

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All the 40A and under EVSE's you mention need 8AWG at the most. I am in the process of changing from a Clipper Creek LCS-20 to a 40A EVSE, and can't imagine the need for 6AWG unless you're going with a 50A EVSE.

FYI, for the LCS-20, the 10AWG I originally ran was overkill.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's good to know. There's a good jump in cost between 8 and 6. The plan is to build it so I can put more juice through it if I end up getting a BEV while I'm still living here.
 
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