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Curious how long before a brake pad/rotor change is needed? These cars are relatively easy on brakes and I have roughly 40K, yet they are barely used!!
 

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Curious how long before a brake pad/rotor change is needed? These cars are relatively easy on brakes and I have roughly 40K, yet they are barely used!!
With the wheels removed during tire rotation, the brake condition should be pretty clear.

You'll save money by replacing the pads before they start to cut into the rotors.
 

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Well, my 2011 has over 107,000 miles with the original brake pads. If the wear continues at the current rate, the brakes will outlast the car. I drive in "L" (major discussion in another thread) and almost exclusively use the brakes from 20mph to a stop.
 

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Electric and hybrid vehicles use regeneration as the main braking force such that only in low speeds are the hydraulic brakes applied, and the wear is very low. You will be changing tires sooner than the brake pads.
 

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I only have about 17k on my 2014 and there are very few signs of brake usage. The Volt will only use the friction brakes when below 7mph, or when heavy stopping power is needed (IE: Emergencies/Stomping on the brake pedal).

I think most brake servicing on Volt's happens well over 100k miles.
 

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Yeah it seems most folks on this forum go well past 100k miles before seeing any significant wear on the pads.
 

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Although my rotors and pads still appear surprisingly good on my Gen1 now >70k miles, my brakes had been making an intermittent squeaking noise that was even more irritating since the Volt is normally so quiet.:(



Ended up replacing this old and noisy brake hardware on all four wheels with the Quiet clip brake repair kit hardware shown below. Total out-of-pocket cost for this aftermarket replacement hardware for my Gen1 was @$20 and I haven't had any further 'squeaking' brake issues since I swapped out these parts and relubed the hardware last year: Had to replace rusted out rear rotors at 50k miles



 

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I've the same squeaking noise in the monring or when ever I started the Volt and moving on either direction. I've took somms advise and just go to the local store to buy the brake grease and a couple can of brake cleaners. We have an AutoZone Auto Parts store near by and they even loan you the tool to compress the piston back! I just remove all the brake pads and all the clips, sand and clean the clips good, sand and clean the calipers and apply the brake grease on the clips, calipers and the brake pad ends, in the mean time, sand the brake pads and roters down little just to get the dirt off. Pay attention to avoid to have any grease get on the breake pad and the rotor surface (use brake cleaner to clean it if you do!). Viola, the noise is gone!. So my cost is $11 for a can of CRC Brake and Calipers Grease, 2 can of Brake Cleaner for $6.00. couple of hours and get my hand a little greasy and it's done. My 2013 Volt with 51k miles and the brake and calipers still look like new!.

See this video on how and where to appy the grease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68zZbdFPTbA.
 

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If I heard correctly, Eric Balmer and "Sparkie" have crossed 400,000 miles and he's still running his original brake pads.
someone please correct me if this is wrong.

With winter coming up I'll toss out my usual PSA... REMEMBER TO RINSE OFF YOUR RIMS/BRAKES REGULARLY, the people who've had issues all seem to trace it back to salt and brine from road clearing.
 

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Electric and hybrid vehicles use regeneration as the main braking force such that only in low speeds are the hydraulic brakes applied, and the wear is very low. You will be changing tires sooner than the brake pads.
Not necessarily - an aggressive driver can be into the friction brakes at every single pedal application. Regen only has so much stopping ability beyond which the friction brakes quickly come into play with enough pedal force.

I know for example that I can drive our Volt all day and barely warm the rotors, but my wife is a much more aggressive stopper and is using friction braking probably 60% of every stop she makes.
 

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I have 125,000 miles on my 2011 and last time I had it in for a tire rotation, they measure brake pads (trying to find other ways to make money) I used less than 1/3 of the pads so far. So I expect about 250,000 or more before I might need the brakes worked on.
 

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Hello fellas! Most recent break experience:
Long story short I bought my 2013 about 10 months ago and silly me, took the sellers word for car being well taking care of.
Never went to do any other inspection of the vehicle but my own personal inspection.
Not long ago I had a 2400 mile trip from Maine to Florida and I couldn’t resist the squeaky breaks and the CV click/pop noise anymore, so I convinced my self best move will be full inspection finally in Chevy dealership.
Full inspection, break system inspection + greasing of the breaking system and axle/cv joint check in.
Almost two hours waiting the tech adviser came with suggestions of both axels being replaced and break system lubricated, I declined axle replacement but I end up being charged 290 for everything.
/break system lubrication and half an hour for labor/ I was assured that everything else is in great shape including my break pads being on 75% currently at 46k miles I won’t worry for them but I won’t go to a dealer for anything else that I could do my self.

Will definitely fallow somms and SuPerWu steps and get some work done myself next time I get squeaky brakes.
Thank you guys!
 

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The only catch is that you need to ensure you are regularly cleaning + lubing the sliding pins.
One seized caliper will grind it away in no time and you'll need new rotor + pads + caliper.

All my other cars have needed brake pad changes before it became an issue (and you'd be doing the lube procedure when putting on new pads) - this is the first where I need to actively maintain the brakes to ensure optimum performance.
 

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The only catch is that you need to ensure you are regularly cleaning + lubing the sliding pins.
One seized caliper will grind it away in no time and you'll need new rotor + pads + caliper.

All my other cars have needed brake pad changes before it became an issue (and you'd be doing the lube procedure when putting on new pads) - this is the first where I need to actively maintain the brakes to ensure optimum performance.
The problem with this is that most of these clowns insist that since it’s not in the manual the dealership is trying to steal their money. As 99% of volt owners probably don’t know how disk brakes work.
 
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