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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We purchased a 2013 brand new (also on a whim) and have had great success with it. 182k miles, never a single problem until a recent SHVS because of low coolant that is now solved. This event caused me to do some long overdue maintenance, so I replaced spark plugs, trans fluid, all 3 coolant loops and the 12V battery. Hope to have another fun 182k miles. One advantage of my MIL light, was I discovered a few volt-rich website including this one. This is a great resource, so thanks for the add.

It also piqued my interest in "playing" around with an older Volt that perhaps I could resuscitate. With all of the misinformation about these cars from purported "experts," it seemed believable that people might do something rash when the "experts" tell them their car is toast ("you need to replace your battery and it will be 23k", for example) and bail on it when it might be as simple a fix as a new AGM 12V battery, or a module reflash/update/calibration.

So I may have stumbled upon one a few weeks ago. I purchased it yesterday. A Silver 2012 with 138k miles, leather heated seats, etc. It's clear that the 12V battery was replaced recently 7/21 and there were alot of DTC codes when I looked at it. I cleared them all, but only P0606 was persistent.

It's tricky to drive 3 hr, get there in the dark, examine a car that clearly had been sitting idle for a few weeks/months, at -10oC and do a deal, so I waited a few weeks before committing.

I took a trailer this time, drove the 3+ hours, and took it for a 1-mile test drive before loading it on the trailer. It was -20oF when I returned home. The car had about 0.5 gal of gas left and only 6 miles on the battery. It was clear to me that sitting for weeks on end unplugged was not great for this car. I was able to drop it off in my friends shop, and plug it in overnight and let it thaw.

I was secretly hoping that the car had yet to have the HPCM2 or BECM updates and that would "fix" the single problem the person I bought it from saw before he decided to sell it (he bought it in Sept 21). That problem was a "battery cold plug in to warm" error (or something like that). I guessed that one of the battery sensors had failed and the new update would solve that.

Well this afternoon I got to inspect the car. It fully charged to 30 miles on the GOM. The engine runs and sounds very good. There was about 20 DTCs all seeming related to a weak 12V battery. I cleared them. While the car was plugged in, I was able to check the temp sensors and the 96 cell voltages at top charge. The temps looked good as did the voltages. I was able to scan it with SPS2 and, unfortunately, it has all of the most current calibrations. dang

Am looking forward to driving the car (one tire does not seem to hold pressure very long) and seeing if I've found a lemon or a diamond. It's was -29oF last night and we had 25+ mph winds with a blizzard tonite, so I figured it was a stupid idea to take the car out for a "test-drive" in case there was a problem. Certainly one of my next steps will be to take the car to 0 miles on the GOM and see what the cell voltages are as one of my next steps.

Any thoughts on what you might do?

Drew
 

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put some gas in it, double check the 12v battery is good, and drive it to the end of the traction battery, check voltages. If all that checks out, you may have a diamond. put on the battery coolant sensor bypass before you get the SHVCS error (although if you have were able to check the module programming, you can clear the SHVCS lockout as well.)
 

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put some gas in it, double check the 12v battery is good, and drive it to the end of the traction battery, check voltages. If all that checks out, you may have a diamond. put on the battery coolant sensor bypass before you get the SHVCS error (although if you have were able to check the module programming, you can clear the SHVCS lockout as well.) snaptube vidmate
good point to mention
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Noticed today that the "new" replacement 12V battery is not an AGM. Had read somewhere on this site that the car can sense if the 12V battery is not an AGM and this may lead to random DTCs or weird behavior. Cannot seem to find that post again.

Any thoughts on leaving a non-AGM battery in the car for the short term? Don't necessarily want to drop $150+ on a new AGM only to junk the car shortly down the line.

Can anyone give me an example of a non-AGM battery causing car problems?

Worked on getting tires to stay inflated. Needed to have the tires reseated after cleaning the rims of oxidation. The tire/rim seals were compromised.
 

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I would suspect that a normal vented battery will allow the volt to operate normally (assuming the battery is healthy). However, it will be venting hydrogen and potentially corrosive gases into the passenger compartment. The APM cooling fan intake is adjacent to the 12V battery, so these gases are going to be blown into or over the APM.

I would keep the windows open to minimize the chance of an explosion or other deleterious effect.
 

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I remember a guy who bought a Volt from some used car lot and they had slapped in a cheap flooded battery. The Volt’s APM is designed to charge an AGM battery, and that flooded battery got overcharged and leaked acid all over. It was quite a mess to clean up.
 

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I remember a guy who bought a Volt from some used car lot and they had slapped in a cheap flooded battery. The Volt’s APM is designed to charge an AGM battery, and that flooded battery got overcharged and leaked acid all over. It was quite a mess to clean up.
But they saved a few dollars upfront... /s
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yesterday took the car for it's first drive. It was just above freezing, and the warmest it's been in months. Kept it in MM just to be safe for first outting. Went 50 miles in a loop. Worked perfect. Optimistic, but will need to drop battery to zero miles and see voltages before I get too excited.
 
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