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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Nice, does the DT sticker on the hitch also say 200/2000lbs?
Yep.

Some photos of the final install. Easiest install ever!

I found there is a nub inside the receiver that prevents class II accessories (like my bike rack) from inserting all the way. I'll have to drill that nub out. My hitch box fit just fine though.
 

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Alright, did a real world test drive using the modified Curt hitch and my Thule T2 bike rack.

After the trip to a local trail, something got bent (notice the no-longer vertical angle of the bike):



I guess Curt was right about using stabilizing straps. My buddy helped me bend it back by pulling up on the rack. Surprisingly, it went back rather easily:



I guess I'll stick with what I used last time. It's much lighter and doesn't stick out as far.


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...After the trip to a local trail, something got bent ...
I guess Curt was right about using stabilizing straps. ....
And using the 1.25" size receiver can't be the strongest version.
Bikes are a big bending torque load. Trailer loads just press down on the ball close to the structure, with low bending loads/radius.
On your style of rack, where would the 'safety strap' go? You don't want to attach it to the bikes. That would be a bending load on the wheels.
And you don't want the strap angling down digging into the painted wing thing at the top of the hatch.

I had a receiver hitch on my Volt. The bike rack was the style that went vertical and held the bikes by the top tubes.
I then added an aluminum angle to raise the safety strap connection high enough to avoid digging into the paint, except for the actual contact with the rubber coated S-hook on the edge of the hatch.

I still wonder about Chevy gigging a warranty claim on any EV with a trailer hitch installed.
The Owner's Manual says 'Don't'. There is no way to prove what you have been doing with your hitch mount.
I don't feel lucky this time. I'm using an old strap-on bike rack on my Spark EV.
 
Doesn't look like the drawbar is snug enough to keep the rack straight. Maybe a little shim in the underside of the receiver will keep it taut and straight.
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
I've yet to actually use the Draw-tite hitch I put on my Bolt, but according to the instructions, no stabilizing strap is needed for the Draw-tite hitch. The DT hitch is also rated 200#/2,000# tongue/towing, and despite several websites listing the Curt hitch as the same 200/2000, the one I have has a sticker with 100/1000# ratings.

Seems to me that the Draw-tite hitch is pretty much superior in every way though. Even the install was a breeze.
 
Discussion starter · #70 · (Edited)
Bro1999, that looks really nice.

How much weight can the Thule cargo box carry?
The box is rated for 150 lb of gear. The box itself weights 75 lbs, so that means with a 200# tongue-rated hitch (like the DT one), you could theoretically carry up to 125 lbs of gear in the actual box. I usually just put bulky, lighter weight stuff in my box when I go camping (sleeping bags/pads, etc...).

The thing lists for $599 :)eek:) though. I did see an almost new one for around $150 at an REI garage sale once. Return reason was "too heavy". Lol

I almost bought the thing just because it was discounted so much, but I already had my box so I passed. Whoever picked that up got a screaming deal.
 
Hey Bro1999, I have a Rola system similar to your Thule box. But it's got a 2" mount for my Expedition. And yeah these things are heavier and more expensive than they appear to be.

All my bike racks have anti sway locks so the Thule is nice and snug in the receiver.




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