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Discussion starter · #21 ·
So I sent an inquiry directly to Curt about the Bolt's hitch and final load ratings, and they responded to me:

"Mr. bro1999,

Thank you for contacting CURT Manufacturing with your inquiry. The gross trailer weight rating is 2,000 lbs. and the tongue weight rating is 200 lbs. From who did you purchase this hitch?

Best Regards,
Richard Martin
Technical Services Associate
Curt Manufacturing"


I side-stepped the "How did you get this hitch when it's not for sale yet" question. :p
But the Bolt's hitch is officially 200# tongue/2000# towing! Of course that's the hitch itself, the Bolt is officially rated for 0 pounds towing. Buyer beware I guess. ;)

But 200/2000# for a 1.25" hitch....pretty good!
 
So do you risk your warranty by bolting on an aftermarket trailer hitch?
Even if you 'swear' it was only used with your bike rack?

BTW, look into that aspect of 1.25" Curt hitches. Most specify using their 'Saftety Strap' to stabilize the bike rack load.
Which means you have one of those rubber coated S-hook things digging into thepaint at the top of the hatch. (Just like a strap-on bike rack)

I have a funny story about that safety strap on my Volt near the end of ownership.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
So do you risk your warranty by bolting on an aftermarket trailer hitch?
Even if you 'swear' it was only used with your bike rack?

BTW, look into that aspect of 1.25" Curt hitches. Most specify using their 'Saftety Strap' to stabilize the bike rack load.
Which means you have one of those rubber coated S-hook things digging into thepaint at the top of the hatch. (Just like a strap-on bike rack)

I have a funny story about that safety strap on my Volt near the end of ownership.
I don't believe I've ever read about someone having a warranty denied for having a hitch on a car that was never used for towing (it'd be just bike racks/cargo box for me). If someone can prove me wrong, please do so!

Yeah, a safety strap will be needed. If that's what I have to do, that's what I have to do. Please share your funny story though.

And now the Bolt hitch is now officially available for sale! For real this time. Lol
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Chevrolet/Bolt+EV/2017/C11457.html?vehicleid=201751562
 
...Yeah, a safety strap will be needed. If that's what I have to do, that's what I have to do. Please share your funny story though....
So my Volt was already in the shop for some repair that was kicking the ass of the local tech, for weeks..
So GM finally sends out the Oompa Loompas to take over and repair it.
When it failed me I had my trailer-hitch-mounted bike-rack with safety strap going to the top of the hatch with the rubber-coated steel S-hook thingy.

When I finally get my Volt back +35 days later, it smelled like a paint shop.
The service writer tells me the GM Tech Support guy was trying to close the hatch after disconnecting the battery and,,,
"The hatch wouldn't close even though he was really trying to slam it. The S-hook got loose and was between the hatch and the roof line and messed up both parts."

So I played by the rules and bailed out of all that debt and bought a used GM BEV for way less.
Now I commute for free due to public charging and only pop the hood to add windshield washer fluid!!

There's definitely no concern for a hitch only. A hitch and trailer wiring? Maybe.
"A trailer hitch was installed on this Bolt. Warranty claim on the power train failure at ~80k miles DENIED."
Who ya gonna call?
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
So anyone install this thing yet? I checked the Curt/etrailer websites, but the only link I found to the PDF for the instructions is broken. :confused:

From the incomplete instructions I have, it looks like you just pop off the bumper cover, bolt the Bolt hitch in, then pop the cover back on?
 
"A trailer hitch was installed on this Bolt. Warranty claim on the power train failure at ~80k miles DENIED."
Who ya gonna call?
I agree. That's a big risk. It would just depend on the mood of the people you were dealing with. If I was serious about a hitch, I think I'd approach the service manager at my dealership and ask him what he thought. Do it in EMAIL - trust me - you want the answer in writing. I almost suffered a $20,000 loss at one point a few years ago, and a written promise in an email is the only thing that saved my hide.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I agree. That's a big risk. It would just depend on the mood of the people you were dealing with. If I was serious about a hitch, I think I'd approach the service manager at my dealership and ask him what he thought. Do it in EMAIL - trust me - you want the answer in writing. I almost suffered a $20,000 loss at one point a few years ago, and a written promise in an email is the only thing that saved my hide.
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act

Unless you are posting videos on Youtube titled "How much can I tow with my non-tow rated car???", the burden of proof is on the dealership/manufacturer to prove an aftermarket part specifically caused a failure.
 
Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act

Unless you are posting videos on Youtube titled "How much can I tow with my non-tow rated car???", the burden of proof is on the dealership/manufacturer to prove an aftermarket part specifically caused a failure.
The technical and legal protection of Magnuson Moss, is one thing. The practical side is a different matter. If they want to, they can produce all kinds of load data from the motors and batteries, and even if those numbers aren't abnormal, who exactly are you going to hire to analyze that data and argue against them?

They could certainly make your life miserable for months as you fought them. Hiring a lawyer, finding a technical expert, taking time off work.

Now, would they want to go to such lengths to deny a warranty claim? Probably not.

I'll take back my statement that a hitch is a "big risk". That's a little dramatic. But it is a risk.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I think we can all agree this guy would have had his warranty claim denied. Lol

 
So do you risk your warranty by bolting on an aftermarket trailer hitch?
Even if you 'swear' it was only used with your bike rack?
I don't know of any outright warranty denials, but I do know that at least 1 Toyota dealer made the owner of a RAV4EV take the trailer hitch off before the dealer would do any warranty work on the car. The problem was faulty electronics, nothing related to the hitch. The dealer just didn't want to do the work and made it as hard a s possible for the owner.
 
I don't know of any outright warranty denials, but I do know that at least 1 Toyota dealer made the owner of a RAV4EV take the trailer hitch off before the dealer would do any warranty work on the car. The problem was faulty electronics, nothing related to the hitch. The dealer just didn't want to do the work and made it as hard a s possible for the owner.
Ah, there's another benefit of a trailer hitch - weeding out the bad dealers...
 
Bolt EV hitch already available for sale!







Seems too low.



My hitch shows 100 lbs / 1000 lbs on the sticker.

I'm hoping I got a prototype and they'll give me a replacement with the correct height.

As it is, I think I'll be scraping stuff.

Even my Prius C is more than 10 inches from the ground.

Anyone else's hitch looks like mine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I agree that seems low. However, with the Bolt's short length and also short rear overhang (from rear wheel to bumper), you may not scrape.

The 100 lb rating bothers me more. Does the manual say if a support strap is required for non-towing loads?

The cargo carrier I own from eTrailer weighs 64 pounds on its own. That means I couldn't even put one large suitcase back there.

Typical Thule 2 bike rack is around 33 lbs itself, so maybe you could do a bike rack and two bikes, if they are a lightweight design. A regular bike, cruiser style, approaches 50 lbs.

Let us know what Curt says please.
 
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