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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like my Volt, I had a clear bra installed on my Bolt EV to protect the bumper, headlights, hood, A pillars, roof and door edges against stone nicks. It took two guys who do this all the time a total of 6-1/2 manhours. Doing a partial hood, skipping the A pillars and roof and headlights would have reduced the $1200 job about 40%.

With 6+ years of highway travel on my Volt, I know it's clear bra has prevented numerous paint chips. And I know that the extra areas I did on the Bolt are also nick and chip prone. That's why I had them coated. :)

I have watched this crew twice and I think I could do my own, but it would be a two or three day project for a newbie, and there is a fair amount of skill, craftsmanship, and tricks of the trade that goes into this. The Volt has the 3M Sotchguard film, the Bolt the Xpel film.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
More clear bra install pics

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And another

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So did you ditch the volt, or are you keeping it in addition to the bolt?
 

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More clear bra install pics
It takes some real skill and experience to do that well - the "before" pic with all of the ripples looks a lot like the "after" pic when I tried this myself back in 2005. After that I decided that if I ever wanted that applied again I was gonna spend the money and get it done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So did you ditch the volt, or are you keeping it in addition to the bolt?
I have the combo platter, Volt plus Bolt EV. Best of both worlds. I'll be essentially gas-free except for a few extended range road trips in the Volt.

It takes some real skill and experience to do that well - the "before" pic with all of the ripples looks a lot like the "after" pic when I tried this myself back in 2005. After that I decided that if I ever wanted that applied again I was gonna spend the money and get it done right.
Yes, taking out puckers and getting it clear coat smooth looks simple, but it's not. Anyone who has tried upholstering a round seat with leather or vinyl will understand the challenge of attaining a smooth curve.

An alternative is to try the 'clear bra in a spray can" approach. Although I have painted cars in the past with professional equipment, I have no interest in this approach as I doubt it will lay down as smooth or be as tough and long lasting. Plus you need a really clean spray area to avoid dust specs in the finish. But perhaps others who have tried this can weigh in for those who want to give it a try.
 

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Jeeeeesus did you have the entire car wrapped? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jeeeeesus did you have the entire car wrapped? :D
Just about the entire front. Everyplace a stone would hit. I considered the cost vs. paint repair but paint repair is never spot on unless you repaint the entire piece and then feather into adjoining pieces, which is often visible.

Believe me, I considered having the windshield done but the the film could get marred by the wipers "sanding" fine road dust into the film. Maybe not so much a concern if they are well lubed with rain or washer fluid, but we all have run wipers dry at some point. Plus, winter ice scraping...
 

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Just about the entire front. Everyplace a stone would hit. I considered the cost vs. paint repair but paint repair is never spot on unless you repaint the entire piece and then feather into adjoining pieces, which is often visible.

Believe me, I considered having the windshield done but the the film could get marred by the wipers "sanding" fine road dust into the film. Maybe not so much a concern if they are well lubed with rain or washer fluid, but we all have run wipers dry at some point. Plus, winter ice scraping...
If I were that worried, I'd just plastidip the entire car. The erlang sprayer and multiple gallons of dip would be $500-600. I'm tempted to dip my volt purple, but the wife insists that I complete some home projects first before playing with the car.
 
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