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Bearing failure FAQ

86392 Views 115 Replies 66 Participants Last post by  onewheeltom, 
Steverino
Compiled from various GM-Volt threads. The questions below are answered in a numbered section lower on the post.

  1. I have started to notice a sound progressively getting louder when I brake and Accelerate but mostly very loud when I am stopping. It sounds like a table saw winding down. This is something that never happened before. What is causing this?
  2. What kind of damage can I cause by driving the car with this issue?
  3. Do I need to have the car towed to the dealer?
  4. Is there a service bulletin I can refer my Chevy dealer to? Yes, PIP5081H
  5. What tools are needed by the dealer for the repair?
  6. How difficult is the bearing repair?
  7. Does the repair require removing the transmission?
  8. Does the rotor need to be replaced in addition to the bearing cage?
  9. Does the entire MG-B rotor/stator assembly need replacing?
  10. Once repaired, can the bearing fail again?
  11. What if the bearing noise problem persists or returns after repair?
  12. What causes the bearing to fail?
  13. Is failure of the bearing related to driving in Low? Number of miles? The car year?
  14. Is failure of the bearing common?
  15. If this bearing failure happens outside the warranty, will it be expensive?
  16. How is the whining or table saw noise being created?
  17. Why is the whining sound louder during regenerative braking?
  18. Based on the noise, I believe the damage is much greater than this FAQ seems to imply.
  19. Why was repairing this bearing failure such a big deal initially?
  20. Is this a warranty repair? What about the extended warranty?
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  1. I have started to notice a sound progressively getting louder when I brake and Accelerate but mostly very loud when I am stopping. It sounds like a table saw winding down. This is something that never happened before. What is causing this?
    This sound could indicate a bearing race failure. Symptoms? It sounds terrible – like a saw blade slowing down. A slight ticking sound in reverse, more sound in Drive and even louder in L – the pitch increases with speed, but gets louder at lower speed.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2ulyuyBVE8

  2. What kind of damage can I cause by driving the car with this issue?
    If it is a bearing cage failure, it sounds a lot worse than it is. It DOES NOT come into contact with the stator nor does it grind up the core into pieces, nor does it damage the stator. Take it to the dealer. It shouldn't really be a problem driving it another 18 miles (30km) but you can contact OnStar and have it towed to be safe and minimize any collateral contamination (just plastic debris for the most part).
  3. Do I need to have the car towed to the dealer?
    It shouldn't really be a problem driving it another 18 miles (30km) but you can contact OnStar and have it towed to be safe and minimize any collateral contamination (just plastic debris for the most part). There is no serious damage as long as it's dealt with expeditiously. But since the appearance noise is so sudden and obnoxious to your average Volt owner, that really isn’t a problem.
  4. Is there a service bulletin I can refer my Chevy dealer to?
    Yes, have them look up and read the PIP5081H and the replacement procedure in GM's Electronic Service Information system BEFOREHAND. Also make sure they have the proper tools at hand.
  5. What tools are needed by the dealer for the repair?
    These ARE NOT Volt specific tools!
    DT-47865 - Bearing Remover and J-45124 - Removal Bridge
    http://gm-volt.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40186&d=1385435849
    DT-22928-B Bearing & Seal Installer
    http://gm-volt.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=40178&d=1385435848

  6. How difficult is the bearing repair?
    It's really no different that repairing a conventional automatic transmission (which is FAR more complicated that the internals of the Volt's drive/propulsion unit by the way) in that many can be repaired without completely overhauling the entire unit. This is really no different. BUT it requires the right tools and a trained tech willing and able to follow the published processes for the repair.
  7. Does the repair require removing the transmission?
    The repair is typically done in-car through the LH fender well while the car was up on the lift - all open from underneath (the fender itself isn't removed).
  8. Does the rotor need to be replaced in addition to the bearing cage?
    Rarely. Early on, the rotor was been replaced in a handful of Volts either due to the unavailability of the bearing itself (originally this bearing was not to be a serviceable part i.e. part of the rotor), or unavailability of the special tools needed to properly remove and reinstall it. A bulletin now clearly identifies how to replace the bearing and the correct tools to use. The rotor was also replaced on a couple of cars that had a repeat failure after the bearing alone had been replaced at the dealership.
  9. Does the entire MG-B rotor/stator assembly need replacing?
    Replacing the MG-B rotor/stator assembly really isn’t necessary for the repair to be successful. Instead, it's more an alternative method to obtain a pre-installed bearing in the event ordering the individual part, or the tools necessary to service it cannot be obtained in a timely manner.So the dealer would be well advised to insure they have the tools and parts on-hand BEFORE tearing the drive unit apart. They should look up and read the PIP5081 and the replacement procedure in GM's Electronic Service Information system BEFOREHAND.
  10. Once repaired, can the bearing fail again?
    Possibly, though this is not a chronic issue. Essentially ALL of the repeat failures have been attributed to the repair procedures NOT being followed by the technician. If the Chevy service tech failed to look up or read the PIP5081 and the replacement procedure in GM's Electronic Service Information system BEFOREHAND this could certainly cause a substandard repair and subsequent repeat of the problem. So, there's not much chance of a repeat failure, providing the bearing was properly replaced, as in the technician carefully followed the published process for it's removal and installation. If for whatever reason they do not (e.g. didn’t have the correct tools, or didn’t use them correctly, didn’t follow the detailed instructions for R&R or measuring the bearing race for proper alignment after it's installed, and a couple of additional inspections necessary to insure it's fixed right the first time. etc. etc.) then the repair might NOT be a success, especially if the noise does not alleviate (or returns after a short period of time).
  11. What if the bearing noise problem persists or returns after repair?
    Get your Volt Advisor involved. There's not much chance of a repeat failure, providing the bearing was properly replaced, as in the technician carefully followed the published process for it's removal and installation. If for whatever reason they do not (e.g. didn’t have the correct tools, or didn’t use them correctly, didn’t follow the detailed instructions for R&R or measuring the bearing race for proper alignment after it's installed etc. etc.) then the repair might NOT be a success, especially if the noise does not alleviate (or returns after a short period of time). If the dealer tech had some sort of trouble replacing the bearing they MAY need to replace the complete rotor (comes with the bearing) or even the drive unit assembly in order to remedy the issue.
  12. What causes the bearing to fail?
    Damage to the bearing race during final assembly of the drive unit.
  13. Is failure of the bearing related to driving in Low? Number of miles? The car year?
    No. There is no correlation with driving in Low, or in Drive for that matter. Very few of these have actually occurred and the issue has been identified as potential damage to the bearing race during final assembly of the drive unit.
  14. Is failure of the bearing common?
    No, but it is concerning for those who experience it.
  15. If this bearing failure happens outside the warranty, will it be expensive?
    It's not a difficult or even an expensive repair. The drive unit does not need to be removed. Assuming everything (tools, parts, repair bulletin) is "at hand" it shouldn't take longer than 3-4 hours. Not much more than an old-school tune-up...
  16. How is the whining or table saw noise being created?
    The noise is created by the fact that after the plastic roller cage fails some or all of the bearing rollers are no longer properly/equally spaced around the circumference of the rotor support in the end cover. The rollers are all still there, as they are "captured" within the bearing races but will "gather" together and spin inside the races at what is now an un-natural frequency. This is what creates the “whining” or “table saw” sound. This bearing (as with all ball/roller/needle bearings) is designed for metal to metal contact, within the confines of its races providing there is adequate lubrication (the bearing is pressure fed transmission fluid from an internal passage) so there isn't really any serious metal contamination present OR any damage where on the 2 parts in which the bearing is working in conjunction with- just a noise and a bunch of plastic material scattered through the end cover.
  17. Why is the whining sound louder during regenerative braking?
    The noise is more pronounced during regen because the magnetic fields created between the rotor and stator windings during regen are quite strong which creates certain thrust forces that actually move with the active poles involved, and therefore placing fluctuating loads on the bearing. So technically the noise it ALWAYS there but merely becomes more pronounced under these conditions.
  18. Based on the noise, I believe the damage is much greater than this FAQ seems to imply.
    There's always going to be a few skeptics when someone tells them it sounds worse than it actually is. But there is no serious damage as long as it's dealt with expeditiously.
  19. Why was repairing this bearing failure such a big deal initially?
    There weren't any spare parts or repair procedure. Someone made an educated decision at some point that this particular bearing was not something that would ever require routine replacement (other than when the rotor was replaced). They were obviously wrong in that decision.
  20. Is this a warranty repair? What about the extended warranty?
    The bearing repair is certainly covered under the 3 year/36k bumper to bumper warranty. It seems to me it would also be covered under the 5 year/100k mile power train warranty (the engine, the transmission/transaxle, and the drive train). Any Voltec componenet is covered 8 years/100k miles, but I don't think the bearing would be considered a Voltec component. A GMPP Major Guard warranty extension covers
    "Virtually every mechanical, electrical and electronic component of your vehicle is covered against failure even if it results from wear and tear *. You're covered for parts and labor on:
    Engine
    Transmission / Transaxle
    Front / Rear-wheel-drive components
    Fuel delivery component
    Engine cooling component
    Heating and vehicle manufacturer-installed air conditioning components
    Electrical, computer and audio components
    Braking system components
    Suspension (Front / Rear)
    Steering component
    High-tech components
    Seals and gaskets
    Safety components
Sources:
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?66482-Bearing-Failure-vs-Driving-in-L
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?89658-Another-Motor-Bearing-Failure
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?85658-Stator-Bearing-Failure
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?56705-GM-fix-my-Lemon-take-2...
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?46489-Fix-my-Volt-Please-Take-1.
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P
My 2013 Volt is just about at 100K miles. What should I look for to get taken care of before it's too late (warranty expires)?
I hear the bearing noise somewhat but it's hard to tell if it's going. Any software update or anything I need to do while there's still time?
Any imminent failure that is bound to happen that happens suddenly?

And where do they rust and what can be done to prevent/slow it down?
Thanks,
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T
I've heard the Stator Bearing is only an issue on '11-13, is this correct? So if I pay a bit more for a '14, I can dodge the potential issue?
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Twilight Fenrir said:
I've heard the Stator Bearing is only an issue on '11-13, is this correct? So if I pay a bit more for a '14, I can dodge the potential issue?
Click to expand...
I just watched Eric's 2011 467,000 mile update video and he mentioned the bearing failure at around 430,000 mile mark (which he attributed to a previous accident as a possible cause). If mine lasts that long, I'm good with that.
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Q Gagnon
I just had this happen on my 2012 Volt. It has 192000km on it and is sitting at Leggat in Burlington, Ontario. They are recommending a new transmission at $6300cdn plus labour costs. They said their tech hasn’t had any luck replacing the bearings. Does anyone know a good dealer to call near Burlington Ontario that has replaced these bearings?

Correction. The $6300cdn includes labour but not tax. Also comes with a 3 year 160000km guarantee
I called Applewood Chevrolet in Mississauga and they told me they have never had to replace one of these bearings either. There must be a Volt tech in the GTA that has done this job.

I picked the car up and am driving it with the noise until I can decide what to do. Getting lots of looks from pedestrians as I pull up to stop lights. Lol
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Q Gagnon
I got a call from the service advisor at Applewood today and he told me after talking to his transmission technician he found out that they have done a few successful stator/rotor bearings and that it should be around $1100cdn. They have ordered the parts so hopefully it will get fixed next week.
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Q Gagnon
Text Paper


I picked up my car today from Applewood Chevrolet in Mississauga Ontario. They did a good job and much cheaper than a new transmission like Leggat wanted to install.
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I'm sorry, but due to the poor quality of the image it is not possible to read the invoice.
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Q Gagnon
Not sure why my photo was degraded so much. I used my iPhone
Let’s see if this one works better.

Also, my radiator cooling fan is staying on since I picked it up. I’m taking it back Monday. Hopefully just a connector loose or undone from the bearing job.

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Just replaced a wheel bearing for 340 dollars at the local dealership today. Hummed almost constantly over 10mph, most noticable at 35mph.
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B
Update from me: now the dealership says the rotor moved while they removed the transmission cover, BUT this isn't their fault because "it can happen" so the cost is entirely my responsibility. It is INSANE that they expect a customer to pay for something THEY broke. They claim it's because the car is "old" and in a "rough service area" (salt on the roads).


braino82 said:
I drove my car there, and (after opening it up) they told me it needed a new transmission ($7000). So now it is sitting with wheel chocks in their back lot, with the transmission opened up. They refuse to tell me how the bearing cage failure caused the transmission to "need replacing", and they recommended I scrap the car (local scrap yards only offered $1000).

So yeah, "held hostage".


edit: They also want $1400 for the "work" they've done so far.
Click to expand...
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S
Had my Bearing replaced this year. Ampera 2012. After contacting Austrian consumer protection the dealer did it under Guarantee EVEN THOUGH I HAD MISSED TWO SERVICE INTERVALS! Should be covered under VOLTEC anway
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braino82 said:
I'm going through this right now. Had "The Noise" 2 weeks ago, and was quoted $1200 CAD for bearing replacement. 4 days later they tell me the transmission is now toast, and a new one will be an extra $7000. Being a 2012 with 200,000+ km, they told me to SCRAP IT! Unbelievable! Now they are holding my car hostage, and won't tell me how the transmission got damaged. I stared my own thread, but I'll post an update when I know more.
Click to expand...

I'll be doing my due diligence on which dealer I take mine into for warranty replacement of the bearing. It does seem Canadians are being taken for a ride on this matter, dealers don't want to replace it under warranty, making up any excuse under the book, like its regenerative braking noise. They will gladly quote you a price for a new transmission though. I had taken mine in 2 years ago for the bearing noise and mostly put up with it, but having 11 months left on Voltec I wish to get it done now that its getting audibly louder. Anyone have success under warranty in Canada in the GTA? EDIT: Actually it was 3 years ago.
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braino82 said:
Update from me: now the dealership says the rotor moved while they removed the transmission cover, BUT this isn't their fault because "it can happen" so the cost is entirely my responsibility. It is INSANE that they expect a customer to pay for something THEY broke. They claim it's because the car is "old" and in a "rough service area" (salt on the roads).
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It was wrong of GM to not place this under a service campaign like they did the broken stalks and steering columns. The issue dates back during assembly and is entirely a defect, should be entirely their responsibility to ensure it works as designed. Dealers are being way too sketchy on this. Not only that its clear Canadians get taken for a ride on everything, one can have it done for $300USD out of warranty or $1500CAD... lol
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spikestabber said:
It was wrong of GM to not place this under a service campaign like they did the broken stalks and steering columns. The issue dates back during assembly and is entirely a defect, should be entirely their responsibility to ensure it works as designed. Dealers are being way too sketchy on this. Not only that its clear Canadians get taken for a ride on everything, one can have it done for $300USD out of warranty or $1500CAD... lol
Click to expand...
If there is such a thing as Small Claims Court (SCC)in Canada, I would consider taking GM to SCC, if the amount you sue for is allowed in that venue, or just sue for the maximum allowed. It would be rather simple to show the extent of the failures in similar vehicles and to show that another potential failure (steering) was covered by them for the entire fleet of manufactured Volts. GM probably will not want to send a lawyer to defend and would settle in you favor. It would take a little effort. In balance would it be worth it to you?

Just as an aside, I can imagine why the steering was covered...definitely a safety item, whereas the bearing isn't.
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If I recall there have been some cases in the US where GM extended the Voltec warranty to this repair and had their otherwise out of warranty 2012 volts covered. Good luck in Canada...
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My Voltec warranty ended 9 months and 900 miles ago. I have this bearing work scheduled for Monday morning at Suburban Chevrolet in Ann Arbor, MI. They estimated $1800(USD), of which about $1000 is labor and about $800 is parts. If they don't need to replace the $316 cover, the parts will be closer to $500. The bearing itself is $114 and the trans fluid is $94. There is a $27 gasket, $34 in "shop supplies" and a bunch of expensive nuts and bolts that they say are all specified as "single use."
Anyone want to chime in as to whether this seems reasonable and typical?
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16falcon
My 2013 (84,000 miles) has been getting progressively louder and louder with the bearing cage failure. Too loud to be ignored any longer. The description of a buzz saw winding down while slowing (regen) is spot on. A link earlier in this thread to a youtube video with the sound recorded matched exactly. I found the latest TSB, PIP5081L, by doing an internet search. I took a copy of the TSB to the dealer and suggested they might start there when diagnosing the problem. The Service Advisor called to let me know my suggestion was “spot on”. Thanks to this thread! Covered under the GMPP service plan which still has about 6 months and 7000 miles remaining. This is my third major issue covered under the GMPP service plan (heater core and infotainment screen/GPS/radio head unit) so I guess it was a good purchase this time around.
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AlohaVolt808
Hey everyone,

I purchased a 2012 Chevy Volt in July 2020 due to the impeccable maintenance record and low miles (58K). The Voltec Warranty expired in September and in December the bearing failure noise occurred. The car currently has 63K miles and we really like the car. We went to the dealership where we bought it who initially gave us a quote of $5000 (new transmission?), we then contacted Chevy Customer Support who was no help and essentially said they do not think we would get any assistance. We went to pick up the car and they gave us a revised quote of $1,500.00 with the caveat that if they find more damage (or cause it) the price could go way up. The dealership also told us that this is a health and safety concern and that we should not drive the car with this defect, is this factual in the opinion of this forum? How can GM not cover a known health and safety defect? Finally, what are the possible effects of driving with the failure as we can deal with the noise (my son actually likes it and says it sounds like Star Wars)? I don't mind the embarrassment if there are no known health and safety concerns. Thanks in advance.
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AlohaVolt808 said:
Hey everyone,

I purchased a 2012 Chevy Volt in July 2020 due to the impeccable maintenance record and low miles (58K). The Voltec Warranty expired in September and in December the bearing failure noise occurred. The car currently has 63K miles and we really like the car. We went to the dealership where we bought it who initially gave us a quote of $5000 (new transmission?), we then contacted Chevy Customer Support who was no help and essentially said they do not think we would get any assistance. We went to pick up the car and they gave us a revised quote of $1,500.00 with the caveat that if they find more damage (or cause it) the price could go way up. The dealership also told us that this is a health and safety concern and that we should not drive the car with this defect, is this factual in the opinion of this forum? How can GM not cover a known health and safety defect? Finally, what are the possible effects of driving with the failure as we can deal with the noise (my son actually likes it and says it sounds like Star Wars)? I don't mind the embarrassment if there are no known health and safety concerns. Thanks in advance.
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Health and safety? Not to my knowledge. My father's had his car like this for months. These vehicles seem to have been abandoned by Chevy. I argue that it is a health and safety concern, though; I can't concentrate with that loud noise. Seems others aren't bothered by it. No idea how not.
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G
Health and safety or not, this is a manufacturer's defect. For them to not cover it tells me that I should avoid Chevrolet forevermore.
The Pacifica Hybrid uses the same Extended Range Electric Vehicle technology, but it's a minivan. That's the vehicle to get if you want an EREV. I vote for cutting one's losses with the Volt. If Chevrolet won't own up to this, then they're not worth supporting.
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