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Hi Everyone, I just read GM is laying off 50 employees in the Michigan battery facility.

https://www.greencarreports.com/new...uggests-no-immediate-successor-for-chevy-volt

Question: For those of you with Gen 1 Volts (I had a 2012 that worked flawlessly up to the day I traded it for a 2018), have you had any issues with the battery as far as needing modules replaced, coolant issues, or range degradation?

When I first bought the 2012, I read the battery should last 500,000 miles, but now that we have some time under our belts, wanted to ask the forum what their issues have been. I hopefully will have my '18 for many years.

Owning these cars was the best driving experience of my life. Saved money on gas and learned so much about electricity and technology. So sad to see this car go away. RIP Volt!
 

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I'm probably a light user compared to others, but I'm at 48,000 miles and 42,000 EV miles on my 2014. No issues, and I still pull 10.4 kwh out of the battery. My only repair so far is a window regulator on the passenger side, repaired under warranty.
 

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6.5 years and 78k miles and zero issues with the battery.
 

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There have been reports of people needing modules replaced under the Voltec warranty but nothing really to suggest the batteries (even the 2011s) are hitting some kind of wall and starting to fail.

The Volt is pretty intelligent with regards to buffer and upper/lower charge limits so I think there is some intelligence in the software to deal with degradation.'

That being said, the oldest Volt is around 9 years old so not enough time has passed to really know the life-expectancy of the batteries.
 

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The highest mileage Volt, one called Sparkie, appears to have lasted about 445K total miles and 161K EV miles. Not sure what finished it, but I wouldn't be surprised if it were the battery.

I don't know how that life span would extrapolate to a typical user, but I notice that for someone who drives 80% electric, the same number of EV miles would bring their odometer to about 200K miles. But the the pure passage of time is also a major factor in battery life, so just looking at the miles is not enough.
 

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There are temperature sensors inside the battery pack. If one of the sensors fails, then the Volt will not be operable. The only fix is to replace the battery pack module (there are 4 modules in the battery pack.) So if the vehicle is beyond the Voltec warranty; 8 years / 100k miles (except in California where the warranty is required to be 10 years / 150k miles) this would not be covered.
 

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2011 VIN 3385. Have 126,000 miles about 75,000 of them electric, (about 95% electric since I've owned it). Yesterday I got 35 miles on battery, exactly what Chevrolet said they would get back in 2011 (actually late 2010). So, obviously very happy here.
 

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The highest mileage Volt, one called Sparkie, appears to have lasted about 445K total miles and 161K EV miles. Not sure what finished it, but I wouldn't be surprised if it were the battery.
Erick Belmer just stated on FB that Sparkie hit one of those retread tire remnants on the highway, and now it won't charge. Repairs are getting too expensive and it's strictly an ICE car for now.
 

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Erick Belmer just stated on FB that Sparkie hit one of those retread tire remnants on the highway, and now it won't charge. Repairs are getting too expensive and it's strictly an ICE car for now.
That is pretty cool. I had always hoped that the car could have a failure mode where you could just drive on ICE if something went wrong with the battery and/or charging system, etc. All the previous examples of various battery failures I have seen discussed here generally left the car disabled. Too bad Belmer's Voltstats account has been inactive since July. I would like to see the miles still accumulating even if they are all on gasoline now. I wonder if he is still doing his epic commute in the car or if he has upgraded to something more fuel efficient for that.
 

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Somewhere I read a quote from a GM engineer that the Gen 1 batteries were designed to last 15 years.
 

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That is pretty cool. I had always hoped that the car could have a failure mode where you could just drive on ICE if something went wrong with the battery and/or charging system, etc. All the previous examples of various battery failures I have seen discussed here generally left the car disabled. Too bad Belmer's Voltstats account has been inactive since July. I would like to see the miles still accumulating even if they are all on gasoline now. I wonder if he is still doing his epic commute in the car or if he has upgraded to something more fuel efficient for that.
I think it was in a YouTube video a number of months back that he changed his job (or was it his house) and his commute was quite a bit shorter so wouldn't be racking up the miles he had.
 

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I think it was in a YouTube video a number of months back that he changed his job (or was it his house) and his commute was quite a bit shorter so wouldn't be racking up the miles he had.
That's good. IIRC, he was commuting over 200 miles per day, and that is something that no human should ever have to do.
 

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I'll just leave this here.

https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthrea...agnosed-as-complete-HV-battery-failure-(-PICS!)

The problem with the volt is that it is coded to brick when anything goes on with the battery. The software was written by lawyers, not engineers. The battery is modules each with dozens of pouches sandwiched in radiators for cooling. If one of the pouches craps out the whole module can drop. then the whole pack drops.

Now that should be an easy fix but NOOOOOO. because the dealers SUCK. ALL the dealers suck.

There I said it. The problem with the volt is that the DEALERS SUCK. SERVICE SUCKS.

they will literally throw parts at everything but the problem. expensive parts, when the issue is either crappy software, or a $2 sensor or a $8 battery pouch. AND they'll charge you $150 an hour labor for hooking up a computer that will never give you the right answer.
 

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I'll just leave this here.
Now that should be an easy fix but NOOOOOO. because the dealers SUCK. ALL the dealers suck.

There I said it. The problem with the volt is that the DEALERS SUCK. SERVICE SUCKS.

they will literally throw parts at everything but the problem. expensive part
the reason I got rid of my volt and got the cadi.friend had a similar run in w/ a gmc dealer,he's a toyota tech and wishes toyota would build a 3/4 ton diesel.he'd buy in a second.
gm just can't get their warranty dealings in check.rather screw the customer than do whats right.
go toyota
 

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You're not going to get a reliable answer from a thread--and there just haven't been enough Volts put on the road to get a firm answer for how reliable this tech is going to be.

These batteries are not flawless. I had 2/3 of my 2013 replaced. Many others have, as well. But many have not -- and you could easily be one of them.

I have no basis in fact for this, but my anecdotal read of the Gen 2 so far seems to have a more reliable battery. Gen 1 was masterful but still a prototype in many ways and there were some baked-in problems (temp sensor and other failures) that often required battery replacement.
 

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2012 Volt, 75k miles (most on EV, 241mpg lifetime).

Last summer I started to get a lot of RPP (reduced propulsion power) warnings when starting the car on gas after making a stop on the way home from work. Towards the end of summer I even got one on the highway as it switched from EV to gas. Frequently I'm getting less than 10.3 out, and it switches back and forth once or twice between battery -> gas -> battery -> gas before the battery is fully depleted.

I live in Vegas and my car sits outside in the 115F heat and direct sunlight all day while I'm at work. If the pack starts to do that again this summer I'm taking it in to see if they'll replace the pack since it is under warranty to March 2020.
 

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Hi Everyone, I just read GM is laying off 50 employees in the Michigan battery facility.

Question: For those of you with Gen 1 Volts (I had a 2012 that worked flawlessly up to the day I traded it for a 2018), have you had any issues with the battery as far as needing modules replaced, coolant issues, or range degradation?

When I first bought the 2012, I read the battery should last 500,000 miles, but now that we have some time under our belts, wanted to ask the forum what their issues have been. I hopefully will have my '18 for many years.
Well it may have made 500,000 miles but now that they reduced their workforce by 50 people it'll probably not do more than 200,000.
 

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These batteries are not flawless. I had 2/3 of my 2013 replaced. Many others have, as well. But many have not -- and you could easily be one of them.

Is "many" 12 people or 20,000? Based on the posts I have seen in this forum, I lean toward the smaller of those two numbers. I would characterize that as "a few". But maybe there are some actual stats somewhere?

I tried to find some, but only found this from Aug 11 2016, when General Motors invited members of the press to its Brownstown Battery Assembly Plant for a tour and a sit down discussion with some execs:

a grand total of zero Volt packs have been replaced because of “general capacity degradation
-https://insideevs.com/zero-first-generation-chevrolet-volt-battery-packs-replaced-due-general-capacity-degradation/

That was two years ago, maybe a few or none have been replaced for degradation since then. Of course, that still leaves batteries being replaced for other reasons.
 

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It is my belief that there will be packs that will need to be replaced due to straight degradation across all 96 cell groups. I think this will start happening when the cars cross the 250,000 mile mark. I think the more common failure mode will be a pack with one, two, or three bad cell groups out of 96. Or a bad temp sensor as mentioned before. This is based on my experience with one of the three Volts I have owned plus what I have gleaned from threads on this forum. It is definitely a small sample opinion.

I posted a thread last Spring detailing my experience with my daughter's 2011 Volt here. It had a 174k on it when I decided to swap the battery pack. The original pack was still usable but since my daughter was going to be 1200 miles away I thought it best to put in a new pack.

The failure of one cell (number 2) was the reason I had to swap the pack. In cold weather (40F, I'm in Texas), the car would toggle between fully electric and ICE operation with a fully charged battery. I could eventually get 23-25 miles of electric only driving out of the car but it would briefly run on ICE a few times before resuming electric propulsion. In warmer weather the issue went away for the most part.

The way I discovered the issue was by hooking the car up to a VCX Nano and running the GDS 2 program. The battery control module is at the bottom of the modules list. I charged the car up fully and looked at all of the cell groups when it was finishing the charge. All were about the same at 4.07v except cell group number 2 at 4.12v. The bigger indicator came after driving until the battery was fully depleted. Most of the cell groups settled in the 3.60v range though the variances in module voltages is greater when discharged (range of ~.05V). The telltale sign of the bad group was that cell group number 2 was at less than 3.40v and falling. It was the weak link in the 96 cell group chain.

To get to 174k, the car was driven every week day about 90 miles round trip. Fully charged to fully depleted every single work day in South Texas heat. After driving 45 miles to work the previous owner just parked the car with no opportunity to plug it in so there was no help from the battery conditioning/cooling system. The PO sold the car to me after buying a 2017 Volt.

Since I did the swap the old battery has being used for various projects. I have a 235W solar panel on my garage roof that charges a 24V section and I use that for my led garage lighting, pool cleaner robot, two garage door openers and charging my electric bike. I have the rear section that goes under the rear seat stored in my dining room. I have learned to finely balance the cell groups with a Fluke 115 volt meter that measures to thousandths of a volt. I just use a hobby charger to bring cell groups up or down to a target voltage (50mA per thousandth of a volt if anyone wants to know). Once the cell groups have been set to a certain voltage they pretty much stay there, even if the module is cycled every day. The battery module under the driver side rear seat is the one with cell group number 2. There are 3 cell groups including number 2 that will not stay in balance. They self discharge even without any load placed on them. Not a lot but enough to know there is something weird going on.
 
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