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I brought my 2014 Volt in to have this feature disabled, after coming back to the car in downtown Seattle and finding that all the windows were down because I accidentally pressed the wrong button on the key fob again. The clerk did not give me any paperwork or an estimate, and since he did not even seem to understand that this was something that was done through a computer program, I just let it go assuming that I would be charged a reasonable price. Upon picking up the car, I found that they had charged me $204. Is that reasonable? When I asked the clerk about it, he said "programming ain't cheap." I understand that I can't do this myself, and I need to pay some sort of premium for their having the proper diagnostic software, but $204 seems excessive.
 

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Why does it seem excessive? That's about the minimum charge for "bring car into service department" for anything that's beyond the capacity of a JiffyLube or a Goodyear shop.
 

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Likely an hour in labour charges which is pretty well the minimum most places will charge. Consider it an investment in order to prevent a soaked interior if you push the wrong button again during an intense rain storm. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why does it seem excessive? That's about the minimum charge for "bring car into service department" for anything that's beyond the capacity of a JiffyLube or a Goodyear shop.
It seems excessive because in Washington State, a dealership is obligated to provide a written estimate for any work in excess of $100, and they didn't write an estimate.
 

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Thanks. You've been very helpful. Please continue.
To be fair, you asked if the charge was excessive/reasonable. Then 3 posts later you say the dealer is OBLIGATED to provide a written estimate (if in excess of $100), but you failed to ask for or receive the estimate. Can't really complain about the charge at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
To be fair, you asked if the charge was excessive/reasonable. Then 3 posts later you say the dealer is OBLIGATED to provide a written estimate (if in excess of $100), but you failed to ask for or receive the estimate. Can't really complain about the charge at that point.
If they are obligated to provide it without my asking if the repair is likely to be over $100, and they didn't provide it, what else might that indicate?

OK folks--let me rephrase it so it makes sense.

In Washington, a shop is required to provide a written estimate for every repair over $100. I didn't get that estimate, which means that according to the laws of Washington, I was entitled to a charge of less than $100. That's just how the law works in Washington. No written estimate means it's under $100. Shops honor this all the time. It saves them paperwork and money for repair forms.

I was surprised that the charge was more than double what I expected, so I posted this thread, wondering if I had faulty expectations, or if other people had similar experiences when they had this repair done. So far, no one who has had the repair done has posted the amount they paid, but I found one thread where someone said his dealer made the change to his software when doing a tire rotation and didn't charge him for it. Does that make more sense?
 

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If I were you I would return to the dealership and ask to speak to the Service Manager. I would point out the law to him and ask for the return of $104. I would suggest to him that his not doing so would necessitate your escalating the matter to the proper government office.
 
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I’m sorry to ask but why didn’t you just change the key fob ?
when my original key fob started to get all the windows down, I bought a new fob case for around $10 and swapped the electronic in it.
Pretty easy to do and no more issues.
 

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I’m sorry to ask but why didn’t you just change the key fob ?
when my original key fob started to get all the windows down, I bought a new fob case for around $10 and swapped the electronic in it.
Pretty easy to do and no more issues.
You have my attention. What case did you buy to avoid the key presses? I have a layer of hot glue over my buttons on an attempt to end the window surprises. I don't know what idiot thought opening all the windows is a good idea. I've had my seats soaked and the contents of the car emptied. That window function is just plain stupid. If there's a case alternative that ends it tell me where you got it.
 

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I don't know what idiot thought opening all the windows is a good idea. I've had my seats soaked and the contents of the car emptied. That window function is just plain stupid. If there's a case alternative that ends it tell me where you got it.
Hot sunny summer day, you're walking toward your car. You push and hold the unlock button, all the windows drop. The air above the car shimmers from the escaping hot air. By the time you actually reach the car, the inside's dropped 40°F and is no warmer than the outdoors is anymore.

The person that thought that up just didn't think anyone would be leaning on the unlock button unintentionally.
 

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Hot sunny summer day, you're walking toward your car. You push and hold the unlock button, all the windows drop. The air above the car shimmers from the escaping hot air. By the time you actually reach the car, the inside's dropped 40°F and is no warmer than the outdoors is anymore.

The person that thought that up just didn't think anyone would be leaning on the unlock button unintentionally.
My FOB only works from 15 feet away most of the time. That's not enough time to cool anything down. How the buttons get pushed is a small mystery but my office is on the other side of the wall where I park. I'm less than 10 feet from my car all day yet I can't see it as there are no windows. It really irks me too walk out and find my seats soaking wet or the stuff in my car gone. I HATE that "feature". Even with hot glue over the buttons and the FOB tucked into the coin pocket on my pants it still sometimes opens the windows. If it's that hot just open the back hatch or roll down the windows for a few seconds as you start to drive. That "feature" really adds no value and it causes lots of problems. It's terrible.
 

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My FOB only works from 15 feet away most of the time. That's not enough time to cool anything down. How the buttons get pushed is a small mystery but my office is on the other side of the wall where I park. I'm less than 10 feet from my car all day yet I can't see it as there are no windows. It really irks me too walk out and find my seats soaking wet or the stuff in my car gone. I HATE that "feature". Even with hot glue over the buttons and the FOB tucked into the coin pocket on my pants it still sometimes opens the windows. If it's that hot just open the back hatch or roll down the windows for a few seconds as you start to drive. That "feature" really adds no value and it causes lots of problems. It's terrible.
Maybe your pants are too tight?
 

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I know we are talking about 2 different things.

1 removing the feature

2. making sure the action to start the feature never happens

1. can this be removed in the firmware via the same equipment and subscription to software we use to flash the modules use to reset the locking codes ?

2. I have in the last 11 years taken apart FOB's to fix keys pushing to easy ( or too hard to push )
- the rubber tip that touches the circuit board is conductive so just put something between it and the pc board.
a new FOB housing is easy ( Amazon ) it may have a hatch back open icon and not the battery charge door icon)
If you want to save (some trouble) - new unit and then programming it can work.

( some trouble ) it did take me 20 mins to get the key replaces correctly -could be having the key snap back into the FOB when you push the side silver button will be the latest new thing.
 

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I know we are talking about 2 different things.

1 removing the feature

2. making sure the action to start the feature never happens

1. can this be removed in the firmware via the same equipment and subscription to software we use to flash the modules use to reset the locking codes ?
Absolutely. Or at least turned off. That's what the OP was charged $204 for and unhappy that it cost that much.

2. I have in the last 11 years taken apart FOB's to fix keys pushing to easy ( or too hard to push )
- the rubber tip that touches the circuit board is conductive so just put something between it and the pc board.
a new FOB housing is easy ( Amazon ) it may have a hatch back open icon and not the battery charge door icon)
If you want to save (some trouble) - new unit and then programming it can work.
See, the problem is that the "action that starts the unwanted feature" (lower windows) is just a longer version of the same action that does a desirable thing (unlock doors). Maybe losing the door unlock entirely is okay for Jerry because his remote only works from 15 feet away whereas mine cheerfully works from halfway across a big-box parking lot or 60 feet and two levels of reinforced parking garage flooring, and I'm loathe to lose it. Somehow also, the auto-windows-down never happens accidentally for me either, and I rapidly therefore run out of the easy answers and get to "Have your tried keeping your keys in a metal basket instead of on a hook" ridiculous levels of suggestions.
 

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Somehow also, the auto-windows-down never happens accidentally for me either, and I rapidly therefore run out of the easy answers ridiculous levels of suggestions.
First, I'm jealous of your FOB. I can look at my car in the garage at home and still not be able to remote start it without walking out into the garage. And before you ask, yes I've replaced the batteries several times. And both FOBs behave the same way.

Second, why did Chevy not build the windows "feature" into the preferences settings? That seems like and obvious solution to me but it's yet one more thing Chevy did wrong on the Volt. I shouldn't need to lose my car for a day plus pay $200+ two turn off this stupid feature.

I love my car but they fell short on several things.
 

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Sorry, I did forget the line about building up the area inside the fob around the unlock button to make is stiffer.

but odd thing -- I never use the unlock fob button - I open the door before removing the charge plug and use the in car button to open the charge door before I exit--

now that onstar is not working with 2g - I guess I will need to start using the lock button as part of the remote start process.

--------
side note - Just last week the WASD keys on my main computer poked through the silicon membrane and were replaced from a different silicon patch
 
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