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Hi I have a loud noise coming from my front end and the dealer quoted $1,500 to fix the wheel bearings and do a transmission flush. I think that's insane. So I'm looking to order the bearings and any other recommended parts. Here's what I found so far:

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/...nsion-front,,95bbfae7fe1eab9a5603d537b96f6246

I don't see different ones for the left/right side. Does this look right? Also should I order some of the bolts? Thanks.
 

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Hi I have a loud noise coming from my front end and the dealer quoted $1,500 to fix the wheel bearings and do a transmission flush. I think that's insane. So I'm looking to order the bearings and any other recommended parts. Here's what I found so far:


I don't see different ones for the left/right side. Does this look right? Also should I order some of the bolts? Thanks.





Same type bearing used both right/left front: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-513316-Advantage-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B07CJ9GNFH






Please keep in mind the 3 Front Wheel hub bolts would require replacement as well since they are torque-to-yield according the the Gen1 Service Manual and have actually become distorted following proper torquing when installed...
 

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Why a transmission flush?
 

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First thing you want to do is tighten the axle nuts. This is an EXTREMELY common fix for the noise you describe. Very simple job also.
 

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First thing you want to do is tighten the axle nuts. This is an EXTREMELY common fix for the noise you describe. Very simple job also.
Are you sure you're talking about the right noise? OP described a loud noise, and the axle nuts fix is for a soft click or tick.
 

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There is a YouTube video on changing the wheel bearings (I think it was on a Cruze but apparently they have the same steps). They are a little crude getting them off (I'd buy a puller from one of the auto discount stores) but pretty basic. The torque then 15 degree distort is dumb, meant to try to keep the DIY out of stealership territory.
 

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There is a YouTube video on changing the wheel bearings (I think it was on a Cruze but apparently they have the same steps). They are a little crude getting them off (I'd buy a puller from one of the auto discount stores) but pretty basic. The torque then 15 degree distort is dumb, meant to try to keep the DIY out of stealership territory.
Most auto stores will "lend" you the tools.....no need to buy a puller .
 

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Make sure to buy a quality(timken, torrington, etc) brand, and make sure to use a torque wrench. I have been bit on both of these in the past. You will need a good impact or cheater bar to brake the axle nut loose.
 

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When changing th hubs, don't forget to use the new axle nut and washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10




Same type bearing used both right/left front: https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-513316-Advantage-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B07CJ9GNFH






Please keep in mind the 3 Front Wheel hub bolts would require replacement as well since they are torque-to-yield according the the Gen1 Service Manual and have actually become distorted following proper torquing when installed...
Perfect thank you for the instructions. I will order those bearings. Now to find the bolts.


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Hi I have a loud noise coming from my front end and the dealer quoted $1,500 to fix the wheel bearings and do a transmission flush. I think that's insane. So I'm looking to order the bearings and any other recommended parts.
This is one of those jobs where you have to take it apart before you find out what needs fixing.

I can't speak to the wheel bearings. Transmission flush?!? (why?)

In the drawings elsewhere in this thread, I see the wheel hub is driven by a transaxle (one each for the left and right wheels). The boots on the transaxles protect a CV joint (Constant Velocity, like a universal joint, but triangular rather than square). If the boot is damaged, lubricant leaks out, dust gets in, and the CV joint eventually fails (with noise).

Each axle has 2 CV joints, each with a boot. If one boot fails, replace the joint and boot. If both fail, replace the axle with a rebuild (gets two new joints and boots) - axle replacement is a common repair.

Servicing the transaxles requires removing the axle from the vehicle (remove hub nut, disconnect engine side, should slide out of the wheel hub, note position of the CV joint for reassembly). Removal of the bearing from the suspension knuckle is not required. At this point, the condition of the bearing can be assessed. Replacement of the bearing likely requires removal of the axle first.

This sounds like the shop quoted the cost of replacing the hardest-to-get-to part, knowing that the transaxle would have to be removed in any case.

If any of this is new to you, you'll want read over transaxle repair first. And get help - this is not a first solo DIY repair job. You'll need this to replace the wheel bearing if the bearing is really bad - unlikely). Check the condition of the boots first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got a chance to take the bearing off and it looks like it was a bad bearing. If you do decide to do the work yourself order the bearing assembly, three new bolts for the bearing, new axle nut with washer for each side. Took me about 2 hours per side. I had to disconnect the knuckle from the strut to get a decent angle for the torque wrench. Overall I'm happy I did the work myself.
 

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Congrats on doing the job yourself! Did you have to order the 3 bolts holding the bearing from a dealership? I'm not a fan of the torque to yield bolts...
 

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Congrats!
On my 2012, I replaced 1 front and 2 rear bearings to find out that half of my noise was cupped/feathered tires.
Alignment was slightly out of spec, I suspect it was the cheap no-brand tires I was given free when I bought the car (used).
 

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Congrats on doing the job yourself! Did you have to order the 3 bolts holding the bearing from a dealership? I'm not a fan of the torque to yield bolts...
I did. It wasn’t any cheaper for me to order them online with the expensive shipping to Hawaii.


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First thing you want to do is tighten the axle nuts. This is an EXTREMELY common fix for the noise you describe. Very simple job also.
and as I recall don't have to take the wheel off just the center cap. I did this on my passenger front side some 2yrs ago. I forget the torque requirement, but we also tightened the lugs themselves too as it seems the last tire rotation had some not so snug which itself might have shown similar symptoms that I heard thinking it was the axle nut...in any event between the 2 tightenings the noise went away.
 

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I've got a strange humming that starts exactly at 30 mph. Originally I was worried it was part of the electric motor but now I'm thinking it's more than likely a wheel bearing. My 2013 is at 96,000 miles and it seems that I've had bearings only last about 100k on my previous cars.

What's the strategy for determining which side could be the culprit? I changed a wheel bearing on my 99 Contour SVT years ago because it was blatantly obvious which side it was on (I could spin the wheel manually and hear the grind). With this sound only kicking in at 30mph, I'm not sure I could figure out which side was going bad.
 

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I've got a strange humming that starts exactly at 30 mph. Originally I was worried it was part of the electric motor but now I'm thinking it's more than likely a wheel bearing. My 2013 is at 96,000 miles and it seems that I've had bearings only last about 100k on my previous cars.

What's the strategy for determining which side could be the culprit? I changed a wheel bearing on my 99 Contour SVT years ago because it was blatantly obvious which side it was on (I could spin the wheel manually and hear the grind). With this sound only kicking in at 30mph, I'm not sure I could figure out which side was going bad.
I had a similar noise and as a tech I've been doing this forever. So I got a bearing and put it in the side I thought was responsible.


Next day I was putting the bearing I took out of the trash in the other side. :rolleyes: Can't win 'em all. Fortunately the same part fits both sides. If you have chassis ears or a clip on microphone it can help.
 
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