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Hi Folks, I figured I better ask this question in a new thread instead of posting the huge thread about LED Upgrades:
http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?205018-LED-quot-bulb-quot-upgrade...-hit-some-roadblocks/page15&highlight=LED


I just put in the two LED signal lights in the back with the load resistors. I was able to place the load resistors in an area where they won't rest on plastic since they get quite warm.

I really like how much brighter these are and would like to do the front signal lights as well. However, this is a closed light unit and haven't taken off the cover for the signal light yet. Before I open things up, I am hoping someone can direct me to the correct wires outside of the light housing units for the Load Resistors.

Any experience would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks
Jon
 

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Now I know why I didn't get any responses...I had assumed the cover for this bulb had more to it and included wires. Once I removed the bulb it proved to be a very easy installation. I only had to work a wire under eachcontact and gasket.

Here is a link to the bulbs and resistors I bought off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RAIKQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4V9ECY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I was able to complete the front and rear lights for just under $50 = $40 for the bulbs and $8 for the resistors.
I really like the look and these bulbs have black bases. Many of the others for signals have yellow bases that look cruddy. It is hard to tell from the photos but these are at least 50% brighter than the originals. They also have a snug fit. I will update if these have troubles.

FS 1.jpg FS 2.JPG FS 3.jpg FS 4.jpg
 

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Thanks for the info.
One thing that always bothered me about adding resistors to LED bulbs is will the conversion still save energy with the resistors or are you just getting a brighter and quicker on bulb for about the same draw as the incandescent bulb?
 

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Thanks for the info.
One thing that always bothered me about adding resistors to LED bulbs is will the conversion still save energy with the resistors or are you just getting a brighter and quicker on bulb for about the same draw as the incandescent bulb?
Brighter, more responsive bulb that you PROBABLY will never need to change from failure again. At least with the indicators and marker lights, that's all you can expect. Swapping the headlamps might save you a nickel of power every six hours or so of use and some think you get prettier light or better illumination. But you'll find just as many say that's bogus and it's no better until you get lamp housings that are designed for the different characteristics and discharge patterns of the LED units.
 

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Now I know why I didn't get any responses...I had assumed the cover for this bulb had more to it and included wires. Once I removed the bulb it proved to be a very easy installation. I only had to work a wire under eachcontact and gasket.

Here is a link to the bulbs and resistors I bought off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RAIKQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4V9ECY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I was able to complete the front and rear lights for just under $50 = $40 for the bulbs and $8 for the resistors.
I really like the look and these bulbs have black bases. Many of the others for signals have yellow bases that look cruddy. It is hard to tell from the photos but these are at least 50% brighter than the originals. They also have a snug fit. I will update if these have troubles.

View attachment 133602 View attachment 133610 View attachment 133618 View attachment 133626
Using the Amazon links above, I did this exact upgrade. My installation involved drilling two 3/32 inch holes in the twist out connectors right next to the metal tabs and then soldered on the wires. Using flux made the solder flow easily. The red wires should be soldered on the inside (more towards the center) of the metal tabs. The other step I took was to glue in the bulbs using some woodworking glue. I also used a little sealant around the drilled wire holes. You don't want one of these bulbs to pop out per previous posts on this subject. It is a nightmare to get a loose one out of the light housing. When reinstalling the bulb fixtures, I first fed the resistor in behind the light housing, then fed in the bulb part. I used a large screwdriver to carefully lever the bulb housing tight. I then velcroed the resistor underneath the metal bracket. I had to re-remove one bulb setup and rotate the bulb it as it was in backwards.
 
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