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I was swapping out my all seasons for my winters today and broke two wheel studs on the same wheel. Has anyone else had this happen? It happened while I was using my torque wrench set to 100 ft-lbs. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow, I'm hoping it will be covered under warranty, but I'm not too optimistic

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yuck, yes, I too doubt they will cover that. Perhaps your torque wrench calibration is off? Was there any oil, grease, lube on the studs? That could cause a false (lower) reading.
 

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I was swapping out my all seasons for my winters today and broke two wheel studs on the same wheel. Has anyone else had this happen? It happened while I was using my torque wrench set to 100 ft-lbs. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow, I'm hoping it will be covered under warranty, but I'm not too optimistic

https://ibb.co/n4W88G
When was the last time you calibrated your torque wrench?
 

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When was the last time your calibrated your torque wrench?
Torque wrench is less than a year old (used it twice). It worked fine on the other 3 wheels and then checked the other lugs with my older manual lever type wrench. All at 100 ft-lbs. The same for my other vehicle.
 

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Never seen this before, are you sure you didn't let the Hulk torque the lugs? lol
 

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Was this removing or installing the nuts with the torque wrench?
 

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I sprayed the hub to keep wheel from sticking to it.
To prevent galvanic rusting, I use an anti-seize paste on the back of my aluminum wheels where they meet the steel hub. I carefully apply a thin layer using a cotton swab. Just enough to put a "barely there" film on the surface. I don't want it flying out as the wheel spins. I also don't want it on my lug studs.
Bolt EV wheel anti-sieze tubw and applicator.jpg Bolt EV wheel anti-seize application.jpg
 

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To prevent galvanic rusting, I use an anti-seize paste on the back of my aluminum wheels where they meet the steel hub. I carefully apply a thin layer using a cotton swab. Just enough to put a "barely there" film on the surface. I don't want it flying out as the wheel spins. I also don't want it on my lug studs.
View attachment 142961 View attachment 142953
Good idea Steverino. Took my volt to the dealer today. $140 in labour to replace the wheel studs. $6 for the 2 studs.
 

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Next time OP, or anyone else gets studs that feel stuck and/or rubbery as you twist them with excess torque, take a timeout and find someone with a good impact gun. Impact guns are more gentle on studs than a hand wrench.

And yes, always use antiseize. People that say not to are probably antivaxers.
 

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I sprayed the hub to keep wheel from sticking to it.
Here's a pretty good demonstration video of the problem.

Since you don't know how many of the other studs were stretched beyond their yield points, it would probably be a good idea to replace all the studs on all the hubs that were sprayed. Those tiny studs can be pretty important when coming down a mountain switchback.
 

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To be clear: anti seize on the HUB, definitely not on the LUGs! Using a lubricant on threaded fasteners increases the applied torque by approx 60%. Therefore, if you use anti-seize/oil/grease/whatever on the threads, and torque to indicated 100ft-lbs, your actual fastener torque is 160ft-lbs. Install wheel nuts DRY, just like the manual says.

I agree that leverage force has broken those lugs. It can be tough to use all your force in a rotational direction instead of levering down as you attempt to break the nut free. I highly recommend buying a good electric impact if you are going to do seasonal wheel swaps. I have a big compressor and full air tools, but still use the electric impact when swapping wheels.
 
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