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Discussion Starter #1
I want a longer cord for my L2 EVSE and someone is selling a Gen 1 factory EVSE for parts (not working) at a great price. I can't think of a reason I wouldn't be able to use the cord and connector for my Gen2 and its L2 EVSE.
 

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So my understanding is that you have found a Gen I EVSE that no longer functions and they are selling for parts.
You want a longer cord for your L2 EVSE and you want to use the cord off a Gen I L1 EVSE. What is the current rating of your L2 EVSE?
The wire gauge on a L1 EVSE is sized for a 12A continuous load. If your L2 EVSE is rated higher than that it might be an issue.
 

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Not really connecting on what you are saying.

Does your Gen2 have an L2 EVSE or are you talking about the L1 EVSE that came with the car and you are using it as an L2?

Are you planning on splicing the two cords together to make a longer cord? There could be multiple problems with this.

Or do you truly have an L2 EVSE (what model) and you want to swap out the cords? If so, they are different size wire gauge. The L1 may not be good enough for the heat build up that would occur.
 

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Gen1 L1 EVSE has 14 gauge wire. A typical L2 EVSE will have 10 gauge (at least mine does.).
 

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I would think it would be cheaper and safer to buy just the L2 cord J-plug / cord from an OpenEVSE or juiceworks kit, since those are meant to be L2 and might even be available in different lengths.
 

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I always thought that #12 wire is not rated for 20A continuous current draw like that. I know I'd sure be going with at least a #10.
In a circuit in the wall correct, but not necessarily a device cord.
e.g. I'm looking at a deep fryer cord that is 15A but 16ga.
 

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In a circuit in the wall correct, but not necessarily a device cord.
e.g. I'm looking at a deep fryer cord that is 15A but 16ga.
Manufactured in China for an appliance outfit with a life a expectancy of what?...:)
 

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I use a Gen 1 cable on my OpenEVSE running 240V 10A. That's all I am comfortable running through that skinny cord.

Get a better cord for 20A...
 

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The 2013/14 L1 EVSE is 14awg. The 2015+ are 16awg. Not sure about the 2011/12.
Another idea, if you're handy at soldering a good splice, is to get some 12/3+G SOOW cord at your local Home Store. I did that for my original 2014 factory EVSE. Or, buy the awg size to match your L2.
 

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Manufactured in China for an appliance outfit with a life a expectancy of what?...:)
Point is that it is certified and legal for use in NA.
I wouldn't recommend downsizing the wire if you don't need to, but the requirements for appliances are not as strict as for the in-wall wire.
My EVSE (clipper creek) is also sized smaller than the minimum that would be required to feed it if it was an outlet. It has nothing to do with country of origin or designed life expectancy, but the acceptable parameters for in-wall and out-of-wall wires.
 

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I always thought that #12 wire is not rated for 20A continuous current draw like that. I know I'd sure be going with at least a #10.
Technically a #12 will handle 20A continuous. But that is typically near the max allowable. I would agree that 10AWG is safer. At my work we design electrical panels that are used in explosive gas environments. We run 30A continuous on 10AWG wire and 20A continuous on 12AWG all the time with no issues. Though you need to be mindful on how the wires are run.

In a circuit in the wall correct, but not necessarily a device cord.
e.g. I'm looking at a deep fryer cord that is 15A but 16ga.
Yup appliance standards are a little different (and an EVSE is considered an appliance [sort of]). Basically you are allowed to use the smallest wire gauge you want as long as you meet the applicable appliance standard during certification and can demonstrate that the cord will not overheat under use.

In the case of your fryer it likely does not draw 15A continuous. It's likely only for a fairly short period of time on start up. Once at temperature the average current draw is likely much less. So the 16AWG wire doesn't get much of a chance to warm up.
 

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In a circuit in the wall correct, but not necessarily a device cord.
e.g. I'm looking at a deep fryer cord that is 15A but 16ga.
But an appliance like that is NOT considered CONTINUOUS use, it is intermittent or periodic at best. I'm pretty sure any industrial fryer that was built to withstand operation for 5-6 hours at a time would have the heavier gauge wire.
 

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Might be ok for now, but, iffy for future use. I'd buy a cord sized for the EVSE.

I don't like the handle quality of earlier OEM Volt EVSEs compared to a good L2. Kind of cheap feeling and don't fit the car socket well.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the input. #12 is fine for continuous. Too bad the OEM L1 is #14. Bugger.
 

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But an appliance like that is NOT considered CONTINUOUS use, it is intermittent or periodic at best. I'm pretty sure any industrial fryer that was built to withstand operation for 5-6 hours at a time would have the heavier gauge wire.
And still wouldn't be continuous use. There's a thermostat, which means there will be cycling on and off happening.
 

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Thanks for the input. #12 is fine for continuous. Too bad the OEM L1 is #14. Bugger.
Why? 14 Gauge is rated for 15 amps, 80% of which (for continuous load) is 12 amps. That's why those values were chosen. It meets the specification, the specification was set with margins for safety accounted for. Where do you see a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Why? 14 Gauge is rated for 15 amps, 80% of which (for continuous load) is 12 amps. That's why those values were chosen. It meets the specification, the specification was set with margins for safety accounted for. Where do you see a problem?
I see a problem when I attach it to my 20A L2 EVSE- unless I want to make toast while I charge my car, then it's a feature!
 
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