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Discussion Starter #1
2012.
12 volt battery died.
took the battery out because i wanted to get the model number off of it to see if i could cross match with something cheaper at walmart, but you cant read the label without removing the battery.
took battery out, closed rear hatch, now i cant open rear hatch.
is there any way to open the rear hatch, or do i have to climb in over the back seats and lay down in the cargo area to replace the battery?
also, do you know if wal mart, or anyone, has an inexpensive replacement?
NAPA , online, claims they have one that will fit. about 130.00.
and, for those of you that remember me, no, i still have not found a mechanic to fix my no cabin heat problem. but now the car wont take a charge and the "service high voltage charging" system message is on. which fixed the no cabin heat problem, with it always on gas, i always have heat.
cant have everything.
so, please, no stories about how your 2011 has 200,000 miles on it and your battery is the original, or how when your battery died the CEO of chevy came out in his limo and changed it for you ,as unicorns played nearby. it has already been established that i have the only Volt that no one will service.
your stories are just too depressing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i thought of that, but i didnt think it would work with the battery removed.
has anyone done it, successfully?
 

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i thought of that, but i didnt think it would work with the battery removed.
has anyone done it, successfully?
It should work, the car should see the 12V potential and let you open the hatch, I would think. Of course, the FAQ Steverino points to is pretty helpful in determining the best path forward.

As to your cabin heat, ugh. You should absolutely find some Chevrolet dealer that knows what they're talking about, so you can either get the necessary SW patch, or the heater coolant module replaced, or possibly a stuck valve in the coolant loops corrected. There's really not much that could fail there, the biggest failure being an incompetent dealer. :(
 

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Use the jump posts under the hood. And use the discount code TRT41 on advance website for $40 off. Or find a interstate depot near you and buy a blem battery for $40.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"See our FAQ's on opening the rear hatch"

thanks.
i did a search, and i checked the FAQ's, but i didnt see this, for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i really think there is something about that car that makes a dealer afraid to touch it. some warranty issue that chevy will make a dealer eat, so they just give me excuses.
this is the second dealer. i bought it used in 2013.
i had to tear the face off of the charge cord to replace a melted power cord and a blown fuse because of the first dealer. had to duct tape the face back on. they use some kind of plastic welding. power cord had a short, one prong melted , slowly, through the cord, blew the fuse. which is not a warranty issue. yes, i know, and you know, it is a warranty issue.
i am certain it is the heater coolant module, i even printed out chevy's instructions for testing and replacing it last time i went in, and gave it to them. they gave the car back in 5 minutes and said they couldn't pull codes because the car was not communicating with the shop scanner. they wanted me to leave the car for two days while they traced the wiring.
my scanner pulled the codes.
emission test tech connected.
now that the car is over 100,000 miles,and they dont have to deal with chevy, i should back and see if they will fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i am going to go with the screw driver into the latch.
i have visions of the positive disconnected battery cable falling and landing on the metal part of the car , just as i jump it.
 

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Since ELR has a normal locked-in trunk lid release, I shouldn't have that problem. :) Getting through the back seat (even though they fold down) could be a problem. Not a lot of room. Maybe use a rake or something to snag the lanyard.

Usually, I replace batteries when they are 3-years old in Texas. The heat here really eats them.
 
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