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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)



Above images are from these LEDs installed into my Gen1 Volt!


As is the case with the majority of aftermarket LED Headlight kit re-sellers, JDM ASTAR markets these as 8th Gen LED tech while the actual Chinese manufacturer near as I can figure, Guangzhou U-Light Electronic Technology, lists them as being G7: http://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-products-HB4-9006-car-LED_60389360713.html and they use Lumileds LUXEON Z ES diodes.


Findings:

  • The LED and heatsink are well-constructed heavy aluminum which they should be for the cost.

  • Testing with a light meter, these LEDs put out more light than the stock HIR2 bulbs but less than 55W HIDs.

  • When powered ON, the LEDs come up to full brightness immediately unlike HIDs which take awhile to 'warm up'.

  • More than likely these LEDs will not arrive pre-aligned for the Volt's headlamp orientation (mine weren't) but a tiny allen wrench is included w/the kit that allows you to align the adjustable chuck making it simple to position properly when fully seated in the locked postition into the Volt headllamp with the LEDs aligned horizontally (9 & 3 o'clock position).

  • Initially worried about being able to fit these fully into the Volt's headlamp due to the oversized heatsink but they fit just fine with enough room left to seal w/dust cover.

  • Also able to fit the LED controller driver into the headlamp since it is much smaller footprint than HID ballast.

  • Continued to make use of a dedicated relay I previously installed for the HIDs controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) in order to feed these LEDs B+ consistent/non-modulated DC voltage from the 12V battery rather than from the modulated BCM headlamp voltage. Sorry, I DID NOT test these LEDs using BCM headlamp voltage as the input to the LED controller driver. You may be able to power these LEDs using the power from the BCM (stock HIR2 power connector in the headlamp) without issue but I would recommend to at least consider installing a capacitor prior to each LED controller just to smooth-out the modulated voltage originating from the BCM and possibly prolong the life and performance of these LEDs. YMMV!

Finally, I purchased these off Amazon and the shipping w/prime was fast!;)


 

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somms said:
.......but I would recommend to at least consider installing a capacitor prior to each LED controller just to smooth-out the modulated voltage originating from the BCM and possibly prolong the life and performance of these LEDs.
JDM ASTAR graphic said:
Equipped with advanced electrolytic capacitor for vehicles lighting.
I wonder what this is about - mitigating BCM modulated voltage so an additional capacitor isn't needed?

JDM ASTAR graphic said:
Highly responsive high and low beam feature to flash for safer overtaking, and instant lighting for tunnels or dark road conditions.
I'm puzzled by this. There's no dual element situation. I had a similar quandary on a statement with another product. I can only guess this is about 2 tier voltages in other cars. I'm pretty sure since we have the shutter that the Volt only supplies the brights on voltage. I don't have any cars with headlamp/brights on the same lamp so I don't have any clues about how this is supposed to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wonder what this is about - mitigating BCM modulated voltage so an additional capacitor isn't needed?
I included this opinion due to the issue I ran into feeding aftermarket HIDs I had installed into the Volt the modulated BCM headlamp voltage. You may be correct that using a capacitor to ensure smooth DC voltage into these LED controlers isn't required.




Highly responsive high and low beam feature to flash for safer overtaking, and instant lighting for tunnels or dark road conditions.



I'm puzzled by this. There's no dual element situation. I had a similar quandary on a statement with another product. I can only guess this is about 2 tier voltages in other cars. I'm pretty sure since we have the shutter that the Volt only supplies the brights on voltage. I don't have any cars with headlamp/brights on the same lamp so I don't have any clues about how this is supposed to work.

I believe this may just be a generic statement put in by the re-seller for the Hi/Lo beam 9004 LED type.
 

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Somms, thanks for the write up. That beam pattern looks GOOD. A lot better than the one I'm getting with my LED rig.
Unfortunately, mine is still pretty new and if I put ANOTHER set of LED lights in the car my wife is going to disown me <grin>.
 

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Good review, thanks for posting! These actually look impressive. I really like that they can be rotated for alignment.

Slightly off topic : When you went with HID's using a relay, how did you get the relay to work? I just tried a known good relay harness, both with and without a capacitor on the signal input portion, and it worked, until I tuned the car on, then the relay would buzz, and the lights would strobe. Even without the relay, using a cap on each side, the hid's would flicker once the car was on. I suspect the car is going from DC to AC, or it's a really high frequency PWM signal that the caps simply can't smooth out.
 

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Wow, looks like a great LED option. Do you have any comparison pics to a halogen bulb or HID? Just looked at the specs, its 25W. HIDs are brighter and only 10W more at 35W, so it'd be a tough call. The light spread looked pretty good, nice and even. Cameras can play tricks, but they looked a little dim in the parking lot unless the ambient lights were crazy bright. Any more pics?

Also, when you measure the LUX, you might be better off backing up a little. LUX takes distance from the light source into account (as opposed to lumens which is just output). When you're that close, when you're just a few inches closer or further it'll screw results a lot. If you back up (take the same reading with halogens) it'll give less room for error. Google inverse square law.. Sorry, I work in lighting, and this makes a huge difference.
 

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Cameras can play tricks, but they looked a little dim in the parking lot unless the ambient lights were crazy bright.
Lighting is a hobby of mine and I've noticed for many years that LED emitters do something funny when contrasted w/ambient light, especially if it's fluorescent or sodium vapor ambient light.

We're used to gradients of light, but most LED emitters put out an even blanket and when you overlay that on ambient lighting it makes the LED generated light look dimmer, though everything is actually illuminated. It's a weird effect and one I've made note of many times over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good review, thanks for posting! These actually look impressive. I really like that they can be rotated for alignment.

Slightly off topic : When you went with HID's using a relay, how did you get the relay to work? I just tried a known good relay harness, both with and without a capacitor on the signal input portion, and it worked, until I tuned the car on, then the relay would buzz, and the lights would strobe. Even without the relay, using a cap on each side, the hid's would flicker once the car was on. I suspect the car is going from DC to AC, or it's a really high frequency PWM signal that the caps simply can't smooth out.

Thanks!;)




I solved the intermittent flickering issue with my aftermarket HIDs using the above guide and the addition of a dedicated relay feeding DC voltage from the 12V battery into the HID ballasts. Inserting just one of these capacitors between the factory headlight connector from the driver's side headlamp into the relay in order to energize did the trick for me. Your issue may have to do with either the HID ballast type, relay, or capacitor. Maybe LED are the way to go for you!;)
 

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Thanks! Yep, that's exactly what I did. Either the cap is no good, or the wrong value. Either that or something changed on the '14 and up cars that I'm unaware of. The relays are good, as I had them in my truck when I did a projector retrofit. The ballasts are good too. I even tried an old DDM unit I had kicking around, and the same thing happened. I'm hesitant to go LED, as I've spent enough money on the bulbs and caps already, and I'm afraid the problem will still exist with the LED's. Hmmmm. I guess I'll have to play around with the wiring and caps some more.

The LED's still look appealing though, especially for my Saab. High beams are great on that car, but the projector lows are pathetic. Far worse than whats on the Volt.
 

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Somms, thanks for the write up. That beam pattern looks GOOD. A lot better than the one I'm getting with my LED rig.
Unfortunately, mine is still pretty new and if I put ANOTHER set of LED lights in the car my wife is going to disown me <grin>.
I have a similar pattern with my Parts Square headlights.
 

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Hi, how is the high beam dealt with?
 

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Hi, how is the high beam dealt with?
The Gen 1 Volt doesn't have a "high/low" beam, it has a mechanical shutter that blocks half the beam for "low" and opens fully for "high", the bulb just stays on.
 

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Hi, how is the high beam dealt with?
The Gen 1 Volt doesn't have a "high/low" beam, it has a mechanical shutter that blocks half the beam for "low" and opens fully for "high", the bulb just stays on.
Dutch,
Thanks so much! So what happens when you engage hi beam on Gen 1 Volt, when LEDs are installed? No change?
 

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Dutch,
Thanks so much! So what happens when you engage hi beam on Gen 1 Volt, when LEDs are installed? No change?
The shutter is part of the projector assembly. Separate from the bulb. It's just a piece of metal that flips down, unblocking the light. With LED's, the action is the same as the stock bulbs. You still get high beams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The shutter is part of the projector assembly. Separate from the bulb. It's just a piece of metal that flips down, unblocking the light. With LED's, the action is the same as the stock bulbs. You still get high beams.
I think alot of people really expect additional bulbs to be lit when they select the high beams. Maybe this is one of the reasons GM chose to equip the Gen2 with not only LEDs for the main/low beams but an additional non-LED bulb for the high beams?:confused:
 

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Dutch,
Thanks so much! So what happens when you engage hi beam on Gen 1 Volt, when LEDs are installed? No change?
The shutter is part of the projector assembly. Separate from the bulb. It's just a piece of metal that flips down, unblocking the light. With LED's, the action is the same as the stock bulbs. You still get high beams.
Thanks novaks47 !!
 

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Above images are from these LEDs installed into my Gen1 Volt!


As is the case with the majority of aftermarket LED Headlight kit re-sellers, JDM ASTAR markets these as 8th Gen LED tech while the actual Chinese manufacturer near as I can figure, Guangzhou U-Light Electronic Technology, lists them as being G7: http://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-products-HB4-9006-car-LED_60389360713.html and they use Lumileds LUXEON Z ES diodes.


Findings:



  • The LED and heatsink are well-constructed heavy aluminum which they should be for the cost.


    Testing with a light meter, these LEDs put out more light than the stock HIR2 bulbs but less than 55W HIDs.


    When powered ON, the LEDs come up to full brightness immediately unlike HIDs which take awhile to 'warm up'.


    More than likely these LEDs will not arrive pre-aligned for the Volt's headlamp orientation (mine weren't) but a tiny allen wrench is included w/the kit that allows you to align the adjustable chuck making it simple to position properly when fully seated in the locked postition into the Volt headllamp with the LEDs aligned horizontally (9 & 3 o'clock position).


    Initially worried about being able to fit these fully into the Volt's headlamp due to the oversized heatsink but they fit just fine with enough room left to seal w/dust cover.


    Also able to fit the LED controller driver into the headlamp since it is much smaller footprint than HID ballast.


    Continued to make use of a dedicated relay I previously installed for the HIDs controlled by the Body Control Module (BCM) in order to feed these LEDs B+ consistent/non-modulated DC voltage from the 12V battery rather than from the modulated BCM headlamp voltage. Sorry, I DID NOT test these LEDs using BCM headlamp voltage as the input to the LED controller driver. You may be able to power these LEDs using the power from the BCM (stock HIR2 power connector in the headlamp) without issue but I would recommend to at least consider installing a capacitor prior to each LED controller just to smooth-out the modulated voltage originating from the BCM and possibly prolong the life and performance of these LEDs. YMMV!

Finally, I purchased these off Amazon and the shipping w/prime was fast!
Hi somms,
Would you post the wiring diagram for this since i would be doing it from scratch [stock lamps]. Any addittional pix would be awesome. Thank you for this post!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi somms,
Would you post the wiring diagram for this since i would be doing it from scratch [stock lamps]. Any addittional pix would be awesome. Thank you for this post!


If you want to go the relay & capacitor route, wiring would be the same as the Xenon Supply example diagram back on the first page of this thread. Just substitute the Led control driver for the ballast and diode for the bulb.

Otherwise, you could attempt a simpler direct replacement of the HIR2s for the LEDs, stuff the LED driver into the headlamp and seal it up w/the dustcap!. This may work but I didn't test the LEDs in my Volt this way.
 

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Hi Somms, got it. I believe going the direct 12V biasing is the best. Would you have any pix on where you mounted the relay, fuse & maybe a p/n for the relay? Did you chassis mount the fuse under the hood?
On your directions:
"Just substitute the Led control driver for the ballast and diode for the bulb." I get what you are saying about subbing LED control driver for the ballast but not the "diode" for the bulb. Can I assume you meant LED for diode? Sorry if I'm being overly specific.

Thx!
 

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Thanks!;)




I solved the intermittent flickering issue with my aftermarket HIDs using the above guide and the addition of a dedicated relay feeding DC voltage from the 12V battery into the HID ballasts. Inserting just one of these capacitors between the factory headlight connector from the driver's side headlamp into the relay in order to energize did the trick for me. Your issue may have to do with either the HID ballast type, relay, or capacitor. Maybe LED are the way to go for you!;)
I would suggest a fused relay for EACH headlamp, instead of a single relay feeding both. If you use just one, a problem with the capacitor, relay, fuse or wiring leaves you with NO lighting at all. That could be quite a bummer on a dark mountain road late at night...
 
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