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Hello Forum,

I'm new to the forum and I have a question about charging on my recently acquired 2019 Volt. I just upgraded from my 2014 Premier...and for charging I used this Level 2:

Amazon.com: Schneider Electric EV230WS EVlink 30-Amp Generation 2.5 Enhanced Model Indoor Electric Vehicle Charging Station: Home Improvement

My new car has the optional on board 7.2 charger and I have only charged the new car a couple of times. It's popped the 30A breaker 2x and then was fine on the 3rd reset. The wall box and cord and handle are a little warm. I was concerned about the heat., so I re-read the spec and it seems to be rated for the 7.2....

Do I need a larger charger and breaker ?

Thanks for your expertise,

Chris
 

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First, kill the main power to your house at the main breaker . You should definitely check on your panel. Take the cover off and make certain the wiring connected to your breaker has absolutely no air gaps. If there is, then tighten it down with a Robertson or Phillips. Naturally make sure that the power to your panel is dead for this step and the next step. Can't stress it enough. Some heat is normal. My Tesla absolutely is merciless on my Schneider. The Nissan charger handles the model 3 like a complete champ and with ease. My Volt is a 2017, so I can't comment on the Volt other than my charger somehow does it in 3.5 hours and never breaks a sweat.

Make 100% certain once again that all power is off. Go outside and check your charger. Also, please remove the cover off the charging unit and make certain that there are also no air gaps between where the wires connect to the board.

Sometimes over time these wires get loose due to expansion and contraction. 13 amps and 30 amps is a huge difference and wiring integrity is incredibly important.

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I'll check the wiring tonight. I had my electrician install it in the house last year when I bought it new. I have the charger inside an air conditioned garage, but the 2014 never got warm at all. Thanks for your insight.
 

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The spec sheet on the Schneider seems to contain some incorrect information. To be able to charge your Volt at 240V and 30 amps the breaker (and wiring) would need to be rated for at least 40 amps. Since you only have a 30 amp breaker this is not safe, correct for the charging application. Remember, there is an 80% rule when charging a vehicle that applies to all continuous use applications. 30 amps X 80% = 24 amps; 40 amps X 80% = 32 amps.
 

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The spec sheet on the Schneider seems to contain some incorrect information. To be able to charge your Volt at 240V and 30 amps the breaker (and wiring) would need to be rated for at least 40 amps. Since you only have a 30 amp breaker this is not safe, correct for the charging application. Remember, there is an 80% rule when charging a vehicle that applies to all continuous use applications. 30 amps X 80% = 24 amps; 40 amps X 80% = 32 amps.
Exactly this... OP are you sure it's a 30A breaker? It would be weird for the electrician to get this wrong. If so, he needs to come back and fix it on his dime.
 

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Yes... a 2-pole 30A...but I have to check and see what gauge wire he ran at the time before I go much further...aside from checking the connections. He's due out Friday either way...just have to 110V until then. :)
 

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Yes... a 2-pole 30A...but I have to check and see what gauge wire he ran at the time before I go much further...aside from checking the connections. He's due out Friday either way...just have to 110V until then. :)
Correct ... you are going to want to make sure you're running at least 8awg to that outlet. My guess, he ran 10 (hopefully not 12)
 

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Chris,

I concur with Jcanoe, 80% or 24 amps max. The circuit breaker should eventually trip even with just a 25 amp load. An upgrade to 8 gauge wire and a 40 amp breaker would do the trick if you are using more that 24 amps and more than 10 minutes! Think of it as adding an electric clothes dryer.

Stephen
 

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Chris,

I have an OpenEVSE that allows you to program the maximum amps the car will request and it can be set to 24 amps or other settings. That's an option if the power upgrade is impractical for you. That is why an EVSE is required in the first place. To charge these electric vehicles, the car will only draw the negotiated current and voltage before it turns on to supply the car

Stephen
 

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Sounds like you need a 50 amp dryer outlet as a 30 amp breaker running close to it's trip point will heat up over an extended time.
 

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Chris,

I have an OpenEVSE that allows you to program the maximum amps the car will request and it can be set to 24 amps or other settings. That's an option if the power upgrade is impractical for you. That is why an EVSE is required in the first place. To charge these electric vehicles, the car will only draw the negotiated current and voltage before it turns on to supply the car

Stephen
My Siemens EVSE has the same option, a small dial you can use to limit the Amps. I use it with a line that comes off my electric dryer. There is a 240V DPDT switch at the dryer so the power is to the dryer or to the EVSE, but never to both at the same time.
170807
 
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Thanks everyone for the replies and solutions. I saw the electrician today and he confirmed 10 AWG wire. He's said he's comfortable putting a 35A breaker on the line to account for the extra draw. If that's not effective, then I'll beef the wire pull to 8 AWG and up the breaker again. Got the car from CO with a range of 32 miles...finally have that up to 52.... I guess they didn't use a charger much. :)
 

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Your circuit wiring and breaker is not sufficient for charging at 32 amps. You should return the Schneider unit if possible, replace it with an EVSE that is rated for a 30 amp circuit (will be able to charge an electric vehicle at up to 24 amps). That is the electrical code - continuous use applications are limited to 80% of the circuit rating.

Here is one to consider: ClipperCreek LCS-30 Level 2 EVSE

The ClipperCreek LCS-30 requires a 30 amp circuit, can charge your vehicle at a maximum of 24 amps. The link is for the hard wired LCS-30. The LCS-30 is also available with several plug configurations
 
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Thanks everyone for the replies and solutions. I saw the electrician today and he confirmed 10 AWG wire. He's said he's comfortable putting a 35A breaker on the line to account for the extra draw. If that's not effective, then I'll beef the wire pull to 8 AWG and up the breaker again. Got the car from CO with a range of 32 miles...finally have that up to 52.... I guess they didn't use a charger much. :)
No offense, but find another electrician. If he is a friend, I understand, but what he is proposing is dangerous. If you thought stuff got warm before, wait until you see what happens next. That is not a good solution.

As mentioned, 10 AWG wire is insufficient for that much draw. 32 amps as a peak draw would be okay in a pinch, but an EV will pull 32 amps constantly, until near full, then tapers off. That puts immense strain on the wiring. 8 AWG and rated for 40 minimum is required.

It's a safety thing. The awesome convenience you have with your 2019 Volts incredibly fast 7.2 KW charging speed (I am so jealous!) should not come at the expense of your safety.



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Just want to add that the ClipperCreek LCS-30 will automatically handshake with your Volt prior to charging that the maximum charging amperage is 24 amps. If you must charge at 30/32 amps then you need to upgrade the circuit to one that is rated for a minimum of 40 amps. I am not an electrician, just someone who reads the manual.
 
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Hey guys...upon further reflection and another discussion with my electrician...we are going to upgrade the wire to 6AWG and make the whole thing future proof. I'll keep the same charger for now I think...but if I ever get a longer range electric, I'll be ready. I'd like to thank everyone on this thread for their advice....much appreciated.
 

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Might as well get a permit for the new wiring. That way if there is ever a need to file a claim on your homeowner's insurance policy due to an electrical fire the investigator will find that the electrical work was approved, inspected.
 
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Exactly this... OP are you sure it's a 30A breaker? It would be weird for the electrician to get this wrong. If so, he needs to come back and fix it on his dime.
The 30A breaker was appropriate for the previous car that could charge at 3.6kW (15A @ 240V). Now he has a new car with a bigger charger (7.2kW, 30A @ 240V), trying to charging it on the existing wiring. But there's this pesky 80% rule: A circuit with a 30A breaker should not be loaded to greater than 80% of its capacity (30A * 0.80 = 24A, or 5.76kW).

There are two paths to return to safe operation:
1) Most EVSE can be programmed to advertise to the car the maximum current that can be drawn. Set the EVSE to advertise 24A. The car (any car) will see this, and limit current to 24A. Do this while waiting to implement #2.
2) The breaker, circuit wiring, and possibly outlet should all be upgraded to 40A (80% = 32A). Just changing the breaker is insufficient for safety reasons - the wiring and outlet could be overloaded, causing overheating and worse (the point of the breaker is to protect the wiring.)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll check the wiring tonight. I had my electrician install it in the house last year when I bought it new. I have the charger inside an air conditioned garage, but the 2014 never got warm at all. Thanks for your insight.
????
 
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