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BTW, the EGR valve is the reason I keep my battery fully charged and use HOLD mode when I drive on the highway until I'm close enough to my final destination to make it on battery. When the EGR valve fails, it blows the F3 fuse. The electronic thermostat for the engine is also on the F3 fuse, so the engine will start overheating. When my EGR valve failed I was on the highway on the way to an important meeting and managed to make it on time by running the engine until the coolant temp got to about 210, then running on battery for a few minutes to allow the engine to cool, then switching back to hold mode until the temp got to 210 again. The alternative is to pull off the highway, stop the engine, disconnect the EGR valve, and replace the F3 fuse. The EGR valve is the reason I keep a bunch of spare fuses and a fuse puller in my glove box. BTW, this thread has good pictures that show how to remove the connector to the EGR. 2018 Unplug EGR connector on Gen 2 Volt?
We think alike. Had mine blow about 70 miles from home last year on my 2017 volt premier with @ 55000 miles. Seldom drive more than 50 miles but when I do, I now use HOLD until I get closer to home or near chevy dealerships that are within the battery range. Other owners may not wish to drive a car under these circumstances but I am willing to use this strategy because I enthusiastically like this car and plan to hang on to it for a very long time.
 

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BTW, the EGR valve is the reason I keep my battery fully charged and use HOLD mode when I drive on the highway until I'm close enough to my final destination to make it on battery. When the EGR valve fails, it blows the F3 fuse. The electronic thermostat for the engine is also on the F3 fuse, so the engine will start overheating. When my EGR valve failed I was on the highway on the way to an important meeting and managed to make it on time by running the engine until the coolant temp got to about 210, then running on battery for a few minutes to allow the engine to cool, then switching back to hold mode until the temp got to 210 again. The alternative is to pull off the highway, stop the engine, disconnect the EGR valve, and replace the F3 fuse.

The EGR valve is the reason I keep a bunch of spare fuses and a fuse puller in my glove box. BTW, this thread has good pictures that show how to remove the connector to the EGR. 2018 Unplug EGR connector on Gen 2 Volt?
I have a 2017 volt, 55K miles no issues so far...
I think a good preventive plan is to carry spare fuses and separate the EGR circuit from the Coolant valve.
 

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I have just finished the dreaded ERG valve problem. Reduced propulsion, check engine light and even engine not available. I tried cleaning the valve, no affect. I called the dealer and told them that I had diagnosed the car with my ODBII meter and it gave all the errors associated with this failure, how much to replace the EGR valve and is it covered under warranty. They said $1200 and after a day of searching it was not covered under any warranties at 42000 miles. I bought the replacement valve off ebay and unplugged the EGR valve. The car would run on engine power occasionally but would eventually give the dreaded engine not available error. After two weeks the part showed up from China and I followed the video and replaced the valve. I am fairly mechanical but the bottom bolts were a struggle. You really need the 3 inch extension for it to work, and a couple of hours later it was all reinstalled. I immediately drove the car after resetting the errors and it was not fixed. My wife was now fed up with my shenagons and told me to take it to the dealer. I dropped it off on Saturday and Monday they called and said it was fixed. I ask what the problem was. They said the fuse was blown and they replaced it. Now I have checked the "walk home" fuse 3 and it was fine, or so I thought so I didnt check it again before giving the car to Chevy. Their reply on the service invoice said they "replace fuse for the "ERG, Heated and O2 sensors and coolant thermostat heater" Which I thought was Fuse 3. Anyway the car was fixed. They charged me the $180 diagnostic fee and my volt was good to go. Moral of the story, check the fuse again after replacing the EGR valve and the ones sold on Ebay $399.29 work great. Hopes this helps.
 

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I have just finished the dreaded ERG valve problem. Reduced propulsion, check engine light and even engine not available. I tried cleaning the valve, no affect. I called the dealer and told them that I had diagnosed the car with my ODBII meter and it gave all the errors associated with this failure, how much to replace the EGR valve and is it covered under warranty. They said $1200 and after a day of searching it was not covered under any warranties at 42000 miles. I bought the replacement valve off ebay and unplugged the EGR valve. The car would run on engine power occasionally but would eventually give the dreaded engine not available error. After two weeks the part showed up from China and I followed the video and replaced the valve. I am fairly mechanical but the bottom bolts were a struggle. You really need the 3 inch extension for it to work, and a couple of hours later it was all reinstalled. I immediately drove the car after resetting the errors and it was not fixed. My wife was now fed up with my shenagons and told me to take it to the dealer. I dropped it off on Saturday and Monday they called and said it was fixed. I ask what the problem was. They said the fuse was blown and they replaced it. Now I have checked the "walk home" fuse 3 and it was fine, or so I thought so I didnt check it again before giving the car to Chevy. Their reply on the service invoice said they "replace fuse for the "ERG, Heated and O2 sensors and coolant thermostat heater" Which I thought was Fuse 3. Anyway the car was fixed. They charged me the $180 diagnostic fee and my volt was good to go. Moral of the story, check the fuse again after replacing the EGR valve and the ones sold on Ebay $399.29 work great. Hopes this helps.
I had my 2017 Volt display go out while we were at the coast. It would come back for a time and go black again. Long story short; the fuse had what they call in the plastic Molding industry "flash". The plastic on the fuse was found on the blade of the fuse. I noticed all the fuses in the fuse panel suffered from this. I trimmed the plastic back off the blade and re-inserted it. Problem resolved.
 
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