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2017 Volt stranded, #3 Fuse: P0054, P0AC4, P0132, P0443, P0458, P0597, P0598, P0030, P0031, P0403, P0405, P0489, P06DA, P06DB, P0138, P0135

7328 Views 24 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Bill Step
I was on a 5 hour road trip home, and about an hour into the trip, my car died. 2017 Volt Premier, built August 2016, Purchased March 2017

I received "Reduced Propulsion" plus the Check Engine light. As I made my way to find the nearest dealership, I received an "Engine Unavailable" notice - likely due to the temperature reaching just above 240 degrees F. I then limped to the dealership on the little electric charge I had, with it running out in their parking lot. The car still charges and still can be propelled by the electric motors. Engine still starts after it cooled off. Fuse # 3 blew, explaining many of the codes. Dealership indicated that they "confirmed" an oxygen sensor must be replaced - as the error still comes up after the Fuse # 3 was replaced. They have not yet determined why the fuse blew. Oxygen sensor is not covered under warranty (attached PDF shows they found an exhaust leak at oxygen sensor?!). I'm still under powertrain and emissions warranty. Approximately 56,200 miles.

Dealership - 4 hours away from my home - is unable to determine why the fuse blew and has been unable to reproduce the failure with in-city driving. They have not yet tried highway cruising - as I suggested they try more than once. I was using cruise control going between 60 and 75 miles per hour when the failure occurred.

Help?!
I've seen multiple other threads with the same thing - blown Fuse 3, and bad O2 sensor. But, I've yet to find any TSB's which may help the dealer repair. (I've never had a dealer service department actively research TSB's ... I've always had to provide any to them in order to get the repair). Is there a TSB which covers this fuse blowing? Or that covers the EGR blowing the fuse? The dealer is spending a lot of "Diagnosis" time on my car at an hourly rate - my fear is they will conclude it's not covered under warranty and that I need to pay out of pocket for many hours of diagnosis and test drives. My point in posting here is to gather collective knowledge and TSB's or other official GM information regarding this issue.

Attached are the trip record. We stopped at an Oasis / Rest Area, then continued on ... around Gary Indiana the car failed, and I was able to limp it to the dealership in Burns Harbor, Indiana. Long story short, they couldn't repair it due to lack of Volt Tech & it was towed to a different dealer (dealer in Burns Harbor is not working on the car now).


P0054 – HO2S Heater Resistance Sensor 2
P0AC4 – Hybrid Powertrain Control Module Requested MIL illumination
P0132 – O2S Circuit High Voltage Sensor 1
P0443 –– Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Valve Control Circuit
P0458 – Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Valve Control Circuit Low Voltage
P0597 – Engine Coolant Thermostat Heater Control Circuit
P0598 – Engine Coolant Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low Voltage
P0030 – HO2S Heater Control Circuit Sensor 1
P0031 – HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 1
P0403 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Circuit
P0405 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0489 – Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Motor Control Circuit
P06DA – Engine Oil Pressure Control – Solenoid Valve Control Circuit
P06DB – Engine Oil Pressure Control – Solenoid Valve Control Circuit Low Voltage
P0138 – HO2S Circuit High Voltage Sensor 2
P0135 – HO2S Heater Performance Sensor 1


I had to take a $100 uber ride (cheaper than taxi), and a $300 one-way car rental to get from the dealership back home, so I could get to work the next day. We were supposed to be home by 9pm, and didn't get home until 3:30am. I was advised this is likely covered under the GM Trip Interruption coverage, as I was more than 100 miles from home.

Please help - I need my car back, and must immediately drive it 4 hours home when I pick it up from the dealership - after driving 4 hours to get back to the dealership (8 hours of driving). I can't have it break down on my drive home with the same issue because they can't reproduce it - and won't repair it without reproducing it.

Current Odometer reading, since the dealer has been driving it:
Electric: 34,818
Total: 56,248
(Gas Miles: 21,240)

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Bringing this back in up.

2017 Volt LT 61K miles.

We were half way between the bay area and San Diego Thursday when we had a CEL and reduced power message. We continued at 70-75mph another 50 miles then lost speed rapidly, almost causing an accident, and coasted onto an exit and into a parking lot where we waiting for a tow for the remaining 200 miles of our trip. Now we're renting a car in SD through Turo, and will pay for an expensive one way rental back home.

30 CEL codes, and engine won't rev much to charge the battery in hybrid mode.

The car has been 100% trouble free til this (other than shift-to-park a while back which wasn't a big deal). Now this ruined our Thanksgiving plans, caused many hundreds of additional dollars in expense to our trip, plus I need to fly back down to pick up the car when it's done.

Wondering if we should cash in on the 25% appreciation since we bought the car in 2019 and get rid of it. We've liked it but this has us spooked to ever trust it again.
 

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I bought my volt luckily as an urban commuter and errand mobile and was only 20 mi from home when my EGR failed in March. I never take it out of town. I save my 25-year-old V12 Mercedes S-Class with 200,000 miles for that. That car definitely never lets me down. The volt? It's my appliance. I still love it though for what I use it for. Maybe except for the new issue, which is that the paint has begun peeling off the roof and hatchback after 5 1/2 years. If you don't have a backup, I'm starting to agree that you either let these things go, or you drive it until it is totally dead and then you mothball it for the future where I think there will be a lot of nostalgia for these early Electric hybrids. Worth something now, worthless from 10 to 25 years old, after 25 years the value may start to go back up as a novelty, piece of history. There won't be many that have survived in any form by then.
 

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Wondering if we should cash in on the 25% appreciation since we bought the car in 2019 and get rid of it. We've liked it but this has us spooked to ever trust it again.
I also had the EGR blow and although it didn't put us in danger, it was a big hassle (and very unnerving while it happened). The good news is that this is a well-known issue with gen2 Volts, and as far as we know the EGR valve has been redesigned so it shouldn't happen again. The bad news is that there is one other common issue that can leave you stranded (look up "Volt BECM failure"), so until that happens and GM replaces the BECM, you always have that hanging over your head.

It seems that Volts have been fairly reliable for most people except for these two issues (and Shift-to-Park, which is minor). However, it's anyone's guess how these cars will age past 10 or 15 years. The gen 1's that have gone 10 years seem to be doing fine but there are reports of battery degradation.
 

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Update: it's was a failed egr valve and blown walk home fuse. Dropped the car Friday after Thanksgiving at mission bay Chevrolet and it was done the following Thursday. Had to fly down, get a hotel, and drive it back, so quite a bit of expense there. At least it was covered by their CA PZEV warranty with no hassle.

Not gonna lie, we're really in to the new Prius Prime... Just waiting to see the EV range. For now the Volt still serves us well.
 

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gm customer care just doesn't get it.I'd have second thoughts on buy a gm product again.chevy was horrible to me,,but cadi was a joy.
gm needs to step up its game or toyota is gonna crush them.
 
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