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Hello,

I am having issues with my Volt which is starting to get frustrating. About a month ago I had a DTC code shown "P06DE" Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Stuck On Confirmed". It would then state on the dash "Reduced Propulsion Mode" however it never lost any power. This coded cleared itself and the garage could not find it. Two weeks after that I was driving to work, I live in Canada so it was cold that day (-23C) and a red battery symbol displayed on the dash and few moments later a message displayed "Battery Saver Activate". A few moments later the card slowed down and had no power and stated "Shift to Park". I pulled over and the card was freaking out, I had sever error messages appear on the dash. I called GM Roadside Assistance and they sent a tow truck, I asked what garage they were sending it to and I questioned them if they serviced Volts there as I know from going there they don't but she stated that's where she was directing it to go. By the time the tow truck arrived the car was completely dead, I could not open the hatch to get the pull hook out and it could not shift to neutral. The tow truck driver popped the hood and was able to get it into neutral.

Once it gets to the garage I get a call and they said the battery in the trunk was bad and they replaced and the issues were resolved. I drove to the city to pick it up on Thursday. I drove it all weekend, I got into the car this morning and red symbol was displayed. I got out and drove my truck to work. I called the GM garage where it was serviced at and they gave me a story they are not certified at the Volt. Why GM Roadside assistance sent there I have no idea. I told the garage the issue and said it would need to go to a Volt center, what a waste of time and money this costing me and GM for sending it there.

I called my Volt ambassador and left a message. Any one with a similar issue?
 

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Potentially the APM (Accessory Power Module) DC-DC converter ... similar to the alternator in a normal ICE?

Multi-meter could test the battery when the Volt is OFF (~12v) and when ON (~14v).

General APM:

SPECIFICATIONS:
• Input Voltage: 260-420 vdc
• Output Voltage: 11-15.5 vdc
• Output Current: 135 Amperes
• Output Power: 2000 watts
 

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There was another post here recently with someone having intermittent 12V issues when they turned the car. For some reason I can't find the thread. It turned out to be a loose snap-in connector on a fuse block under the rear hatch.

To trace these things, one needs to do electrical work. It would be really scary for a technician to do this type of work if they are not trained in EV servicing. Swapping the battery is an easy thing to do and any dealer should be able to do that. (Although there are members here who have had dealer experiences where the dealer has messed up the battery because they haven't been familiar with AGM batteries.)

Before you go further, you might want to first self-confirm that the battery you now have in the trunk is the right one and indeed an AGM battery. (Hopefully the last people who did the work didn't give you a conventional replacement.)
 

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Keep in mind - we still have the SAME problems we have in ALL cars when dealing with the 12 Volt battery.
and road side help seems NEVER to have a VOLT METER.

At least we don't have to keep a turkey basterlike device in the car to test the battery specific gravity.

not a bad idea to keep an eye on the voltage when a dealer says a 12 volt batter is bad.
A power port volt meter will give some information when you don't want to always test the battery under the back hatch .
 

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not a bad idea to keep an eye on the voltage when a dealer says a 12 volt batter is bad.
A power port volt meter will give some information when you don't want to always test the battery under the back hatch .
Interesting idea. I'm not sure if you can test that power plug without doing it after you turn the car off??I don't recall an 'accessory on' option (i.e. turn key part way in the old cars).

Amazon Cigarette Lighter Voltage search: https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_s...=aps&field-keywords=Cigarette+Lighter+Voltage

I searched the manual but only found this:

Retained Accessory Power (RAP)
The following features will operate for up to 10 minutes or until the driver door is opened:
. Audio System
. Power Windows
. Accessory Power Outlets
 

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not a bad idea to keep an eye on the voltage when a dealer says a 12 volt batter is bad.
A power port volt meter will give some information when you don't want to always test the battery under the back hatch .
This is a great point. I'm going to get one to keep with the tire pressure tester. It seems like an essential piece of equipment in a car that doesn't have a voltmeter anywhere on the dash.
 

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You can cycle the parking brake with the car off too :

There is even a note in the manual that says too much will drain the 12 volt battery
could be a quick way to load the 12 volt battery.

It took 7 years before I saw 11.9 Volts on my battery during that 10 mins before the auto shutdown
( then I get a new battery the next week)
 
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