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Anyone hardwired a radar detector into a 2017 Volt yet? I use F15 (center console power) in a 2013 Volt, which is switched with ignition, but unsure which to use on the 2017.

Thanks.
 

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Anyone hardwired a radar detector into a 2017 Volt yet? I use F15 (center console power) in a 2013 Volt, which is switched with ignition, but unsure which to use on the 2017.

Thanks.
I don't know...but as soon as I get mine, I'll be hard wiring one in. I'll let you all know how it goes.
 

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I don't know which fuse to use on gen 2, but once you figure out which circuit is switched with the ignition tbheres a neat little gadget you may already be aware of. In case you're not its called a piggy back add a circuit. Basically you plug it in where the fuse goes. The gadget has two fuse slots, you plug in the original fuse into one slot and it protects the circuit just as before. The second slot is for the circuit you are adding. Just add a second fuse and connect the radar detector to the provided pigtail. Here's a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462850609&sr=8-2&keywords=fuse+piggyback
 

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Just a bit of info. The Gen II volt uses Micro2 fuses. They are really really small, you can't use the fuse tap in the link above. There is a Micro2 fuse tap available.
Make sure it is a Micro 2 and not a Micro, there is a difference. I made that error and I'm waiting on the delivery now.
 

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I was going to personally hardwire my Passport Max radar detector and Thinkware F750 dashcam (front and rear) but when I took my '17 in for his window tinting, they offered to do the hardwiring of all 3 pieces for an extra $100. Fortunately, I brought everything I needed with me (nothing was yet mounted) to the tinting appointment and took them up on the offer. 90 minutes later, they had done a top-notch job on both the tinting and the installations. Guess I'm getting older as it seemed worth $100 to not have to figure it all out and make it look clean myself.

In looking at the driver's side fuse box, it appears that they inserted new fuses into unpopulated sockets and wired from there. I can take a photo if it's helpful. BTW, they mounted both the radar detector and the dash cam (main unit) just to the left of the rear view mirror and the rear-facing camera is mounted to the hatch near the driver's side of the window.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was going to personally hardwire my Passport Max radar detector and Thinkware F750 dashcam (front and rear) but when I took my '17 in for his window tinting, they offered to do the hardwiring of all 3 pieces for an extra $100. Fortunately, I brought everything I needed with me (nothing was yet mounted) to the tinting appointment and took them up on the offer. 90 minutes later, they had done a top-notch job on both the tinting and the installations. Guess I'm getting older as it seemed worth $100 to not have to figure it all out and make it look clean myself.

In looking at the driver's side fuse box, it appears that they inserted new fuses into unpopulated sockets and wired from there. I can take a photo if it's helpful. BTW, they mounted both the radar detector and the dash cam (main unit) just to the left of the rear view mirror and the rear-facing camera is mounted to the hatch near the driver's side of the window.
Thanks for the info. A photo of the fuse box would be a big help. Appreciate it.
 

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Thanks for the info. A photo of the fuse box would be a big help. Appreciate it.
Sure thing! This is the driver's side fuse box. In this photo, I think the only wires added by the installer for the project are the yellow wire for power and the wire screwed down on the right (with the blue insulator) for ground.

IMG_2704.jpg
 

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Thanks!!

Does the radar detector turn on and off with the car?
Yes, it does. Come to think of it, there must be another power wire somewhere because the Dashcam needed both ACC and Always On power so that it can remain on (in "Parking" mode) when the car is off.
 

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Sure thing! This is the driver's side fuse box. In this photo, I think the only wires added by the installer for the project are the yellow wire for power and the wire screwed down on the right (with the blue insulator) for ground.

View attachment 112537
I metered the yellow wire location, and that one remains on, so I think they is where your dash cam is. Are there any other connections that you can see? Thanks again for the help.
 

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I metered the yellow wire location, and that one remains on, so I think they is where your dash cam is. Are there any other connections that you can see? Thanks again for the help.
I don't have a "before" picture to confirm, but I think the light gray cable that is crossing over the box in my photo is probably from the radar detector and hence the "accessory" power feed. I can confirm that there doesn't appear be any other tap to the fuses aside from that "always on" yellow cable that is probably for the dashcam. This all implies that the installer might have pigtailed a wire rather than tapping a fuse for the radar detector. This is kinda why I just paid him to do it ;-). Wish I could help more but I don't really want to start digging in and potentially dislodging any of the wires in there...
 

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HI....i am a new user here. I don't know which fuse to use on gen 2, but once you figure out which circuit is switched with the ignition tbheres a neat little gadget you may already be aware of. In case you're not its called a piggy back add a circuit. Basically you plug it in where the fuse goes. The gadget has two fuse slots, you plug in the original fuse into one slot and it protects the circuit just as before. The second slot is for the circuit you are adding.
 

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If you're looking for a switched circuit for radar detector or dashcam, use F37 on the interior fuse panel. I just added a fuse to that & now my Thinkware F770 can use parking mode. Car Toys was unable to wire it correctly so I had to figure it out on my own.
 

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I don't know if a radar detector uses more or less power, but for reference I connected a dash cam (via 12V to USB adaptor from Amazon) to the power for the auto-dimming mirror. This works fine provided that you're OK with it being powered off when you're in reverse, but I doubt you will be worried about tickets while in reverse. It was easy provided you have the dexterity to work with very small gauge wires.

I know I could add a circuit, but am trying to avoid running wires down the A-pillars given the risk of the wires later interfering with curtain airbag deployment.
 

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I don't know if a radar detector uses more or less power, but for reference I connected a dash cam (via 12V to USB adaptor from Amazon) to the power for the auto-dimming mirror. This works fine provided that you're OK with it being powered off when you're in reverse, but I doubt you will be worried about tickets while in reverse. It was easy provided you have the dexterity to work with very small gauge wires.

I know I could add a circuit, but am trying to avoid running wires down the A-pillars given the risk of the wires later interfering with curtain airbag deployment.
Tapping into the Violet/Green wire at pin 2 of the interior rear view mirror connector will not cause your device to turn off when in reverse. The disabling in reverse is handled by the Green/White wire that is in pin 1 of the connector at that mirror.

That is a great place to tap into for low current draw devices such as dash cams, radar detectors etc etc.

This wire will be energized anytime the ignition is on!
 

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The F37 slot, even though empty, does work fine with the add on fuse tap. I just had to put a fuse in both of the slots in the tap. Radar detector now comes on and off with the ignition. Thanks for the tips all.
 

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so f37 is the fuse to use with dash cam or radar , so this turns off and on with the car. i dont want the dash cam to stay on when the car is turned off so does not drain the car. can you confirm thanks
 
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