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Discussion Starter #1
First time I've had an issue with the infotainment system on my 2017. This morning went out and it worked fine. After lunch took car out and the center screen was black, volume knob did not work but power button did start/stop audio. I could control stations and volume with steering wheel controls. Several restarts, including locking and walking away for 30 mins, did not have any effect. I know MyLink issues are not uncommon, searched and read about disconnecting the 12v battery, etc. After 5 hours I took the car to get dinner, still no screen and when I got home the radio wouldn't turn off! Had the car locked and it was still playing. Ended up pulling the 12v negative terminal and let it sit 30 mins. Reconnected and the radio stayed off, but still have a black screen. When I turn the car on I don't get the usual fan whirl from the MyLink or anything.

Question is: would it be worth taking to the dealer to diagnose or try to fix with a software update? Or does it sound like a hardware issue and I should just send the unit out to a repair shop?
 

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I know that sometimes the 12V battery level could cause the electronics in the vehicle to act up in many strange ways. I'd check it with a multimeter, just in case. But, TBH, it sounds a lot like a hardware issue.
 

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My 1st real modern vehicle, 1999 Durango, acting very strange. Replaced the battery, all good after that. Between me, my wife and 3 children, whenever their cars have been acting funny. The 1st thing I look at is the battery. If it is 3 or 4 years old, I would just replace it. It is a reactivity cheap and easy thing to do. And the battery needs to be replaced every 4 to 6 years anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just checked on the 12v battery... measured 12.4vdc with the vehicle off, which indicates approx 75-80% of charge. With vehicle on it's charging at 15.0v. Also tried pulling the 'infotainment' fuse overnight to see if that reset anything, no change.

I've done some more searching, seems like this is not an uncommon issue when the HMI module dies. This is the actual module with the small PC fan that I assume I normally hear in the dash on startup. I don't get that fan noise anymore and screen is still completely dead.

WIll make an appointment at the dealer after Thanksgiving. Hopefully it stays broken--I read one thread where a member here had the screen die for 5 days and then it came back. Last thing I need right now is an intermittent issue.

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Your 12v battery is borderline.
 
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If it's not holding more that 80% charge it's on its way out.
 

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I just checked on the 12v battery... measured 12.4vdc with the vehicle off, which indicates approx 75-80% of charge. With vehicle on it's charging at 15.0v. Also tried pulling the 'infotainment' fuse overnight to see if that reset anything, no change.

I've done some more searching, seems like this is not an uncommon issue when the HMI module dies. This is the actual module with the small PC fan that I assume I normally hear in the dash on startup. I don't get that fan noise anymore and screen is still completely dead.

WIll make an appointment at the dealer after Thanksgiving. Hopefully it stays broken--I read one thread where a member here had the screen die for 5 days and then it came back. Last thing I need right now is an intermittent issue.

View attachment 171442
If that is what your read right after shutting your car down, it's going away. After it being overnight, I bet that drops to under 12V. Remember if a car can't get enough voltage, then it starts compensating with Amperage. Which in turn causes all manner of side effects that can include component shorts.

This is not unique to the Volt and all cars that use AGM batteries from Hybrids to REV's to full EV's suffer from this.

My 2002 Prius for example completely destroyed it's body control computer because of a battery that went to 11.9 volts. That was Toyotas diagnosis. So get a new 12V battery anyway. It's almost 4 years old now which is about EOL for a 12V AGM battery.

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks obermd and WhatAShocker. I am now thinking its on the way out too. I checked voltage again this morning after car had sat for 2 days, and it was at 12.2vdc. I removed the neg terminal, put the charger on (Bosch charger with AGM setting) and it showed 50%. Let it charge to 100% and had 13.0v. Reconnected the negative terminal and it dropped right back to 12.4v.
 

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Thanks obermd and WhatAShocker. I am now thinking its on the way out too. I checked voltage again this morning after car had sat for 2 days, and it was at 12.2vdc. I removed the neg terminal, put the charger on (Bosch charger with AGM setting) and it showed 50%. Let it charge to 100% and had 13.0v. Reconnected the negative terminal and it dropped right back to 12.4v.
Replace it ASAP.
 
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Thanks obermd and WhatAShocker. I am now thinking its on the way out too. I checked voltage again this morning after car had sat for 2 days, and it was at 12.2vdc. I removed the neg terminal, put the charger on (Bosch charger with AGM setting) and it showed 50%. Let it charge to 100% and had 13.0v. Reconnected the negative terminal and it dropped right back to 12.4v.
Replace it and report back. But either way, no sense in replacing the HMI and your old fries the new unit or something else too.

Speaking of which, I am going to start hunting for a new one for my Volt too. You got me all worried now. Hahaha.

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Discussion Starter #12
Nobody has the battery in stock nearby, however NAPA is getting one for later today/tomorrow. Will post back.

I surely hope a 12.4v battery is not a possible cause for a HMI module to go bad. I'd think Bosch knows enough to make a module tolerant of anywhere from 10-16Vdc (if not wider) on a nominal 12v system. But I will replace the battery just in case, I don't want to take it to the dealer and have them stick me for a $400 AGM replacement because this original is marginal.
 

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Nobody has the battery in stock nearby, however NAPA is getting one for later today/tomorrow. Will post back.

I surely hope a 12.4v battery is not a possible cause for a HMI module to go bad. I'd think Bosch knows enough to make a module tolerant of anywhere from 10-16Vdc (if not wider) on a nominal 12v system. But I will replace the battery just in case, I don't want to take it to the dealer and have them stick me for a $400 AGM replacement because this original is marginal.
Start with the battery. Don't assume anything else is fried until the battery is replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just went out and checked the battery again. Now I'm seeing 12.7v nominal, and it only drops to 12.4 if I turn on the high beams. With the lights off it rises back up. I'm just having a hard time believing this battery is shot. I think the 12.4v I measured earlier was just because all the modules were coming online. :unsure: I just don't know.
 

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Nobody has the battery in stock nearby, however NAPA is getting one for later today/tomorrow. Will post back.

I surely hope a 12.4v battery is not a possible cause for a HMI module to go bad. I'd think Bosch knows enough to make a module tolerant of anywhere from 10-16Vdc (if not wider) on a nominal 12v system. But I will replace the battery just in case, I don't want to take it to the dealer and have them stick me for a $400 AGM replacement because this original is marginal.
My Tesla Model 3 needed a AGM replacement after only 1.5 years. The Model 3 has a Voltage Variance between 12.2 to 12.4 to signify the need for replacement. My Volt is 3 years and going. Cars nowadays work those batteries super hard. So even a slightly flaky battery can cause all kinds of issues. But Voltage isn't the only issue, but it's the batteries ability to sustain and retain that voltage.

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Discussion Starter #16
Agreed--I will get the replacement AGM for preventative maintenance. It does not appear to be affecting this HMI issue. I realized with the car plugged in that the vehicle charges the 12v battery at 13.5v. I turned on the vehicle with it plugged in and still no response from the infotainment. Will make an appointment for the dealer to diagnose this. Will post back when I find out more.
 

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Agreed--I will get the replacement AGM for preventative maintenance. It does not appear to be affecting this HMI issue. I realized with the car plugged in that the vehicle charges the 12v battery at 13.5v. I turned on the vehicle with it plugged in and still no response from the infotainment. Will make an appointment for the dealer to diagnose this. Will post back when I find out more.
And you double and triple checked every fuse point under the hood, under dash and in the trunk?

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If that is what your read right after shutting your car down, it's going away. After it being overnight, I bet that drops to under 12V. Remember if a car can't get enough voltage, then it starts compensating with Amperage. Which in turn causes all manner of side effects that can include component shorts.

This is not unique to the Volt and all cars that use AGM batteries from Hybrids to REV's to full EV's suffer from this.

My 2002 Prius for example completely destroyed it's body control computer because of a battery that went to 11.9 volts. That was Toyotas diagnosis. So get a new 12V battery anyway. It's almost 4 years old now which is about EOL for a 12V AGM battery.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Meanwhile I was still using the original battery in my 2013 volt until I replaced it last week. I hadn’t noticed any funky behaviors but the dealership said the battery was getting weak and with winter coming, I didn’t want to get stranded. With a regular car and non agm battery, we get an indication when things are about to go awry with the battery as you can hear the start struggle to crank. The volt doesn’t have a traditional starter thus we have to use these other clues.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
And you double and triple checked every fuse point under the hood, under dash and in the trunk?
I just checked the relevant fuses--according to the FSM the HMI module is on the F26 10A "infotainment" fuse under the dash. The display is F25 7.5A, also shared with the HVAC control which is working fine. The radio is on F30 15A, and the radio still works when controlled through the steering wheel and cluster. All 3 fuses are hot on both sides, checked with a test light. No present issues with the car other than this.
 

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I just checked the relevant fuses--according to the FSM the HMI module is on the F26 10A "infotainment" fuse under the dash. The display is F25 7.5A, also shared with the HVAC control which is working fine. The radio is on F30 15A, and the radio still works when controlled through the steering wheel and cluster. All 3 fuses are hot on both sides, checked with a test light. No present issues with the car other than this.
Makes me wonder if the backlight to the display died. I’m guessing that might be expensive to replace as they probably want to replace your entire infotainment system. What happens if you shine a bright flashlight into your screen, do you see colored pixels? The other thing is there used to be an option on Gen1 volts to turn off the display so it is dark while driving. I’m not sure if the gen2 has this feature, but is there a configure button you can press?
 
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