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Has anyone else experience this issue before? Car has been working up fine up til yesterday. Has roughly 19k on it and it was fully charge. It was parked outside at a friends house then was we were going to go home. Car won't start up correctly. Had to turn it off and back on and check engine light came on. After getting home, plugged in and ICE turned on and check engine light went away after a couple restart. Left the car to charge overnight and this morning noticed that the car wouldn't start. Turned it off and back on and noticed that the EV mi was 0. Turned the car off again and back on and it started to count up to 50 something miles. Then it just dropped down to 0. The car has been taken care of and all recalls performed. Check engine gave a P1E00 error from what I can tell it's just general error code. Oil level and coolant level looks fines.
 

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Did you check the voltage on the 12V AGM battery? It should read 12.3 - 12.6 volts when the Volt is not powered on. If the 12V battery is reading less than 12.0 volts the 12V is bad.
 

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Try disconnecting the 12V battery negative terminal connection, wait a few minutes before reconnecting. This will reset the Volt's systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gave that a try. I ended up taking it into the dealer. They told me that it's a module that got shorted. My question now is why did it get shorted in the first place and will it happen again. I'll be picking the car up in the next day or two so I'll post the finding from the paper on here in case anyone else runs into it. But if anyone has any ideas of what caused a module to get shorted, I would like to know. Thank you!
 

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Could be any number of things including a manufacturing defect that was not significant enough to cause the module to fail until now, vibration, a wiring harness rubbing or temperature-related component failure.

I once owned a Saab 95 vehicle that used a main computer board manufactured in the UK. The board was a 4-layer circuit board, essential for the car's engine to run. After a number of system board failures it was determined that the adhesive used to attach 4 small rubber bumpers to the circuit board to absorb vibrations was interacting with the board and eating through the layers of the circuit board. Never in the same part of the board, never the same symptom. That's how interrelated and complex our vehicles had become (this was a 1999 vehicle.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks jcanoe for the replies and info!

Got my volt back today so thought I'll mention what they found.

Multiple codes U2603, U2604, U2605, U2606, U2617, U2618, U2619, U2620, U2621, U2622, U2623 and U2624 Set in the HPCM2. Per bulletin they replaced BECM and replaced coolant.

Also, wanted to give some more info. This happened unexpectedly after car was parked and coming back to the car. Running fine and no issues prior. Car was completely up to date with recalls as well. Car is a 2017 volt so as of today car is about 2.5 years old.
 

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Got my volt back today so thought I'll mention what they found.
Multiple codes U2603, U2604, U2605, U2606, U2617, U2618, U2619, U2620, U2621, U2622, U2623 and U2624 Set in the HPCM2. Per bulletin they replaced BECM and replaced coolant.....

Hey Redenvy, just yesterday I got my first glitch with my 2 year old 2017 Volt. 29,500 miles. Code P1E00 (which I realize is a generic) and your codes up through U2618.

My symptoms so far: 1) Yesterday, MIL comes on, car seems to run ok. 2) Leaving my watering hole car will not move after I shift to reverse. 3) After cycling on and off a couple times car will move. 4) Then an hour later I start and no MIL! (at this point I'm hoping it's fixed itself). Ok, fast forward to this morning: 1) Drive to bagel shop, no MIL! 2) next start the MIL is on and the car will move but it's acting weird. The battery charge level goes down to 3/4 and then back up to full.

This sounds like a visit to the dealer, what's everybody think?
 

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^Yes, it is still under warranty (for a few more months only on the full warranty), and that is a problem that could potentially leave you stranded, so I would take it in. Don't clear the codes.
 

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Sounds just like the OP's module short. I'd still check to see if the battery terminals are tight.
 

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Try disconnecting the 12V battery negative terminal connection, wait a few minutes before reconnecting. This will reset the Volt's systems.
That’s terrible advice if it’s under warranty or a trip to a repair shop is in the future. Makes it more difficult for the tech to diagnose and may cause a price rise for that if customer pay.
 

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Sounds just like the OP's module short. I'd still check to see if the battery terminals are tight.
I checked my 12v battery. It's fine. I drove (and started) my car 2 times tonight. The MIL is out. We'll see what happens on the 1st day of the year!
 

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My 2017 with 46,000 kms started acting up just like OPs. First Fully charged and drive on EV the ICE-Gen starts and the battery SOC slowly starts going down to zero bars and range goes to zero. P1E00 has been on for a week and car mostly works on ICE-Gen only. Sometimes I am able to drive a few KMs until ICE-Gen starts. Temps are well above the ERDTT should you be thinking. Now that I was only burning gasoline I had to go to gas and and I got the SHiFT to PARK stranding me until after 15 minutes of cycling it started working. Got home and now it won't charge anymore. Called dealer and only VOLT TECH is Jan 7. Good thing I am vacation at home and don't need to commute. My CAR was bullet proof through -35C winter last year so I am surprised how flakey it is now. I also did all the recall work last September. They did reprogram it. Coincidence?
 

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Same thing happened to my wife tonight as OP and Threader.
She drove on EV then parked for about 8 hrs. On her way home, CEL comes on and the SOC kept jumping around eventually deciding on 0%. Also, the car won’t charge now.

2017 Premier with 13,000 miles. Outside temp is in single digits today. And the 12V battery reads 11.8V. Clearly the battery is one of the problems but does anybody know if a drained battery can keep the car from charging? Would people here try jumping the car first or just get it to a dealer and let them figure it out? Thanks
 

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Same thing happened to my wife tonight as OP and Threader.
She drove on EV then parked for about 8 hrs. On her way home, CEL comes on and the SOC kept jumping around eventually deciding on 0%. Also, the car won’t charge now.

2017 Premier with 13,000 miles. Outside temp is in single digits today. And the 12V battery reads 11.8V. Clearly the battery is one of the problems but does anybody know if a drained battery can keep the car from charging? Would people here try jumping the car first or just get it to a dealer and let them figure it out? Thanks
The 12V battery is either not able to be charged or not being charged properly. It should never read below 12.0V. A failed 12V battery can cause all kinds of issues, error messages. The dealer should test the 12V battery and replace it under the BTB warranty (30 months / 36k miles) if they find the 12V battery to be defective. If you decide to replace the battery yourself make sure you get a Group 47 AGM type battery. Costco is one possible source at a good price.
 

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Got my 2017 Volt back from dealer service after 2.5 days. They replaced the BECM and also replaced my shifter. Got to drive a 2013 base model Volt as a loaner. Was interesting but I was able to observe all the things that was improved in the 2nd Gen. The only comment was my cell phone was getting Android Auto connection error red screens when I tried it back again with my repaired Volt. I had to correct the time and date on the MyLink settings but that didn't fix it. I went into the AA app settings in my cell phone and force a stop, flushed data and cache and rebooted my phone. Then it worked as I went through the AA initialization scripts.

I want to trust GM but I hope the I don't have shifter issues in 14,000 kms when the warranty expires as you all know it's not covered under Voltec warranty.
 

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My MIL is mostly off now. Car drives fine. When the MIL makes an appearance it is usually humid/wet out. When the weather dries out the light goes away.
 

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2017 Premier with 35.5K miles. Last Thursday night car had CEL and no charge message (though green light was on and not blinking) come on when turned on car to leave work. Charged fine that night home though CEL still on and no problems driving all-electric to work on Friday. Made an appt with dealer for Monday anyway (Volt expert doesn't work on weekends). Charged Friday at work but on my home the SOC started jumping all over the place and car suddenly switched to gas and coolant temp rocketed up. Stayed at 50mph on freeway in slow lane expecting the worst but managed to get to dealer. Picked up today after repairs. Repair order says codes U2603 - U2606 and U2616-U2624 found in HPCM2. Also found 18-NA-261. They told me they dropped the battery and replaced the battery energy control module and coolant. Repair order says F-(S) module. Also says they did "smoke test battery after cover removed and reinstalled." Not sure what that is. However, everything seems fine now. Dealer said what happens is not normal but not unusual either.
 
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