My goodness there seem to be a plethora of similar recalls for updating the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module 2 (HPMC2), and now to include the Gen 2 Volt!
N202307990, issue date, Feb 04, 2021, for 2016-2018 Volts
N172130460, issue date, June 14, 2018, for 2013 Volts
N172130462, issue date March 29, 2019, for 2013-2015 Volts
N172130462, (updated October 2019 to include 2012 Volts)
N172130461, dated December 2019, for 2011 Volts
...and not to forget the procedure to correct the PPR problems arising from a simple loss of "oomph" in older Gen 1 Volts, Bulletin No. PIC6292C
I don't know your climate where you live as I would guess that a colder climate older Volt (ie. Gen II) would run into this earlier. There is a range of voltages for the cells that make up the battery and when it hits ~20% SOC (depending on year) the ICE/gas kicks on and maintains the SOC level around 20%-22%.More information: I went back and checked my past service write ups and found this entry for a service performed on my car by the dealer on 4/07/2021"
" Minor recall. Customer Satisfaction Program (N202307990): Increased Customer Notification PEFORMED RECALL. UPDATED HPCM2 USING SPS.WARR CODE: CBYN64113611"
So this seems to say that the dealer performed this software upgrade/fix. What does the fact that this service was performed mean in relation to the issues I am now reporting? Should I still be concerned or because this service update was performed has the issue we are concerned with been resolved for this vehicle? Should I bring the car into the dealer? I definitely do not want to be stuck on Highway 101 with a car w/o propulsion![]()
RIP Rusty.Rusty;91868 said:My first results that might be of interest from the DashDAQ OBD scanner, I eyeballed the transitions of each battery bar. The DashDAQ has at least two signals for battery level in the Volt extension driver, one for battery level % and one for the battery gauge %. The gauge turns out to map directly to the battery bars on the display, with each bar ticking off every 10% of the signal range (at least it did for the transactions I happened to watch - staring at the scanner while driving being a bad idea I haven't watched to confirm the entire series).
Here's how it maps between the gauge display and the actual battery SOC (or at least I think the VICM term is SOC).
The ICE comes on around 20% SOC, and the CS SOC is around 22%. So the ICE runs a bit to bring the SOC back up from 20%ish to 22%ish. This somewhat confirms some of what we've heard about the battery and battery SOC.Code:Battery Gauge Gauge % Battery % 10 bars 91%-100% 81%-86.5% 9 bars 81%-90% 74.4%-81% 8 bars 71%-80% 68%-74.4% 7 bars 61%-70% 61.5%-68% 6 bars 51%-60% 55.3%-61.5% 5 bars 41%-50% 48.7%-55.2% 4 bars 31%-40% 42.1%-48.7% 3 bars 21%-30% 35.6%-42.1% 2 bars 11%-20% 29.3%-35.5% 1 bar 1%-10% 22.7%-29.3% 0 bars 0%-1% 20%-22.7%
I've not yet checked out MM SOC.
The unit can report kW for the battery and each motor, RPMs for each motor and the ICE, and the amount of torque each is generating (with MG-A generating negative torque in CS mode). There's WAY too much data there for me to boil down in a hurry, but suffice it to say the Volt appears to have some tricks up its sleeves as regards how it uses the different units.
Your advice still applies, but remember that the Gen 2 Volt’s Mountain Mode only keeps 2 bars of the battery charge. The Gen 2 Volt can actually use the ICE as a source for acceleration levels of propulsion torque, and in one of the three extended range modes, the ICE operates as the only source for the car’s propulsion.If you can’t plug in always use your hold mode or your mountain mode to keep those 3-4 bars of battery charge when the car is sitting unplugged overnight. Peace of mind. If you have propulsion reduced events, Do Not Shut Off the car!! Until the high revving engine subsides and the message goes away. Don’t worry these events seem kinda normal in any older Volt. My 2011 first exhibition of “Propulsion reduced” was about 5 years ago. It now has 192,000 miles and a 12 years old battery. Just baby that battery with plugging in as much as possible and use mountain mode if you can’t.
Personally, I would use MM for the sheer simplicity of it. Get in, tap drive mode 3 times without waiting, done.Thanks for your advice wordptom. Re using Mountain Mode or Hold mode, which would you recommend as best for this situation? BTW--I don't live in the mountains![]()
And not forget. Turning on MM can end up being just part of one's normal "starting the car" routine, like:With hold mode you have to decide at what level (SOC/bars) you want to turn it on at.