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Great info in this thread. Do you have any pics of the magnet on the subwoofer? It seems to be decent from the front. The box doesn't looks bad either (nice depth), although I think the mass-loading upgrade is definitely worth it. I have boxes of the stuff, so I'll probably do that. In another thread I mentioned that I threw some test tones at the system. I found musically-useful bass down to about 35 Hz and noticable output down to about 27 or 28.

From the diagram, I'd imagine you're right about them having a cap on the twiddler drivers. Those are small full ranges, so they probably just roll off the bottom frequencies and otherwise let physics do it's thing. I bet the door speakers just naturally roll off up top. Not like high frequencies down low on the door are going to propagate well anyway.

I am quite happy with the system given it's reasonable cost and the likely compromises needed to minimize electrical usage. I am coming from a Volvo S60R with the Dynaudio system. That was a pretty expensive system and still sets my high water mark for automotive audio. It was definitely better than the Volt, but not so much that I bemoan the Volt's system. If anything, I'm surprised it's as close as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Great info in this thread. Do you have any pics of the magnet on the subwoofer? It seems to be decent from the front. The box doesn't looks bad either (nice depth), although I think the mass-loading upgrade is definitely worth it. I have boxes of the stuff, so I'll probably do that. In another thread I mentioned that I threw some test tones at the system. I found musically-useful bass down to about 35 Hz and noticable output down to about 27 or 28.

From the diagram, I'd imagine you're right about them having a cap on the twiddler drivers. Those are small full ranges, so they probably just roll off the bottom frequencies and otherwise let physics do it's thing. I bet the door speakers just naturally roll off up top. Not like high frequencies down low on the door are going to propagate well anyway.

I am quite happy with the system given it's reasonable cost and the likely compromises needed to minimize electrical usage. I am coming from a Volvo S60R with the Dynaudio system. That was a pretty expensive system and still sets my high water mark for automotive audio. It was definitely better than the Volt, but not so much that I bemoan the Volt's system. If anything, I'm surprised it's as close as it is.
I don't have pics but the magnet is decent. I was pleasantly surprised since Bose is notorious for using light magnets and small drivers, but this is an 8" with some mass. It doesn't feel cheap in the slightest.

I thought the system sounded terrible when I first got the car. It slowly got better over the first few weeks as it broke in. I couldn't believe they needed so much. It sounds better than most OEM car systems I've seen (heard). I'm hoping to aim for recording-studio-quality sound in the Volt. Shooting for the moon here.

I'll be sure to take/upload more pictures of everything as I work on the system.
 

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I don't have pics but the magnet is decent. I was pleasantly surprised since Bose is notorious for using light magnets and small drivers, but this is an 8" with some mass. It doesn't feel cheap in the slightest.

I thought the system sounded terrible when I first got the car. It slowly got better over the first few weeks as it broke in. I couldn't believe they needed so much. It sounds better than most OEM car systems I've seen (heard). I'm hoping to aim for recording-studio-quality sound in the Volt. Shooting for the moon here.

I'll be sure to take/upload more pictures of everything as I work on the system.
Well, you certainly haven't cheapened out on drivers, as one pair of K2 Power 165KR speakers costs darned near as much as the whole Bose upgrade price haha. I'm sure it will sound awesome.
 

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KC2TZB it's awesome of you to post these pics & info.
In case your tweeter question still remains unanswered, I am attaching pics of the Bose Tweeter.
They are a 1" Dome Tweeter in a 3.5" Form Factor.
It seems they could be replaced with a high quality 3.5" Coax.





I have been meaning to replace them with;
Dayton Audio AMT2-4
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/loudspeaker-drivers-by-type/tweeters/amt2-4-air-motion-transformer-tweeter.html

Unfortunately, I have not yet been brave enough to attempt removal of the Dash Panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
KC2TZB it's awesome of you to post these pics & info.
In case your tweeter question still remains unanswered, I am attaching pics of the Bose Tweeter.
They are a 1" Dome Tweeter in a 3.5" Form Factor.
It seems they could be replaced with a high quality 3.5" Coax.





I have been meaning to replace them with;
Dayton Audio AMT2-4
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/loudspeaker-drivers-by-type/tweeters/amt2-4-air-motion-transformer-tweeter.html

Unfortunately, I have not yet been brave enough to attempt removal of the Dash Panel.

Thanks for the pictures!
Very Cool!

Those AMTs are really nice, and very directional. Make sure you use a capacitor to protect it from LF (at least) since the stock tweeter also has one.

That little yellow cap on the back of the tweeter is pretty much what I expected. I'd never use a bipolar electrolytic cap in a car environment due to the temperature extremes. It would likely dry out the electrolyte after a while. Any polypropylene/metal-film/film-and-foil cap will be MUCH better than an electrolytic.
Strangely, there are some cheap ones that would be similar in price the the electrolytic but offer significant performance and sonic improvement.

If you're having trouble mounting, try some non-hardening modeling clay. It's very cheap and heavy (non-resonant). It'll help keep things in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
UPDATE:

I was able to pull up the dash to expose the tweeters and midrange. Snapped a few pictures. If you want to pull up the dash, you'll first need to remove the a-pillar covers on either side, then pull the dash cover off. Everything should come apart, no screws to take out!







I also replaced the stock sub with a Dayton RS210HF-4. HUGE improvement. I snapped a few pictures of the old and new subwoofer as well. The old (Bose) sub has a smaller magnet, and has a bumped paper cone. New driver has a lightweight anodized (black) aluminum cone.



 

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Parts don't look bad at all given the low cost of the upgrade. Not to say there isn't room for improvement. I'm sure that Dayton sounds great (I have several Dayton products...best value out there) and Focal needs no explanation.
 

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...I also replaced the stock sub with a Dayton RS210HF-4. HUGE improvement. I snapped a few pictures of the old and new subwoofer as well. The old (Bose) sub has a smaller magnet, and has a bumped paper cone. New driver has a lightweight anodized (black) aluminum cone....
That Dayton looks like a nice driver for the application. The T/S specs (Qts, Xmax, etc.) would seem to match up well with the enclosure size. Does it tame the boominess of the original Bose driver?
 

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That Dayton looks like a nice driver for the application. The T/S specs (Qts, Xmax, etc.) would seem to match up well with the enclosure size. Does it tame the boominess of the original Bose driver?
I'm guessing that boominess is more cabinent resonance than the driver (adding mass loading has a large benefit as noted earlier). Bose, despite the criticism they receive, have more than capable designers. I actually tend to prefer paper subs to Aluminum cone ones, so I'd be interested to hear the difference between the two. The massive magnet and large linear response (due to large Xmax) probably do pay some benefits at higher audio levels, but I don't see any egregious sins on the Bose driver.

Any idea as to the wattage going to the main Sub? Any markings on the Bose sub that give a max input? I'm guessing 50-100, but I have no justification for that.
 

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Nice to see more great info from KC2TZB :cool:

Regarding the Dash & A-Pillar removal, I just wanted to add some notes:

The A-Pillar covers need to be pulled out from the top inside.
In other words, pull them from the top windshield side.
Pulling them from the door side won't release the clips (don't ask me how I know).

See pic below for where the (2) clips and the alignment post are.
There is an elastic retainer, that I could not get loose, so I had to deal with the a-pillar covers being tethered to the a-pillar.

I also attached a pic of the bottom of the Dash Cover, so you can see where the clips are.
It is undercoated with some type of rubberized paint that flakes off very easily.
Therefore, the less contact you make with the bottom surface the better.

I think I mis-spoke earlier about the form factor of the tweeters.
It's probably a 2-3/4" Form Factor and not a 3-1/2" form factor.
I believe the Center Channel is 3-1/2".



 

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This thread is full of useful information, it should be stickied (or a new one made with the useful information, and then stickied).
 

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Discussion Starter #35
That Dayton looks like a nice driver for the application. The T/S specs (Qts, Xmax, etc.) would seem to match up well with the enclosure size. Does it tame the boominess of the original Bose driver?
YES IT DOES! One of my biggest complaints with the system was the "boomy" colored and bloated bass.
The Dayton really shines here. Bass is extremely well defined now, with almost no distortion or boominess to speak of.
It's probably the biggest bang-for-buck upgrade to the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I'm guessing that boominess is more cabinent resonance than the driver (adding mass loading has a large benefit as noted earlier). Bose, despite the criticism they receive, have more than capable designers. I actually tend to prefer paper subs to Aluminum cone ones, so I'd be interested to hear the difference between the two. The massive magnet and large linear response (due to large Xmax) probably do pay some benefits at higher audio levels, but I don't see any egregious sins on the Bose driver.

Any idea as to the wattage going to the main Sub? Any markings on the Bose sub that give a max input? I'm guessing 50-100, but I have no justification for that.
No idea what the wattage is. There aren't any markings to indicate.

I agree with your other points. I did see a huge benefit by mass-loading the plastic enclosure (and placing some foam to kill off some airborne resonance). Although, the upgrade to the Dayton sub was still a VERY noticable improvement.
 

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No idea what the wattage is. There aren't any markings to indicate.

I agree with your other points. I did see a huge benefit by mass-loading the plastic enclosure (and placing some foam to kill off some airborne resonance). Although, the upgrade to the Dayton sub was still a VERY noticable improvement.
Will probably give it a go on swapping out the bose sub for the Dayton here in a week or two. Have some MLV on order as well. For the foam inserts, did you glue the base of the foam down to the MLV layer? or did you just kind of tuck the foam in tight?
 

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Will probably give it a go on swapping out the bose sub for the Dayton here in a week or two. Have some MLV on order as well. For the foam inserts, did you glue the base of the foam down to the MLV layer? or did you just kind of tuck the foam in tight?
I sprayed 3M Super 77 on the back of the foam, then tucked it in tight. I'm pretty sure the spray adhesive isn't doing much and they're mostly held in by being tucked in nice and tight.

Good luck and have fun!
 

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I'm hoping to aim for recording-studio-quality sound in the Volt.
I've worked in over 20 different recording studios. The one thing they all have in common is a pair of Yamaha NS10M near fields. Planning to put in a set of NS10s in your Volt somewhere, too? ;-)
 

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Got the Dayton Tweeters in.

I believe these are sold under at least 2 different labels:
Dayton AMT2-4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO7703A/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2FU54VSIN4G97&coliid=I1XMONBFZ39VFO

Tianle AMT65-4
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/air-motion-transformers-amt/tianle-amt65-4-3.5-amt-tweeter/

I went with the Tianle from Madisound because of the attractive sale price and because I wanted a set of their nice capacitors.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/solen-capacitors/solen-15-mfd-fast-cap-400v/

Capacitor stashed here:





Mounting Plates removed & one Tweeter needed a washer added (on one tweeter) to keep a fat solder joint off the metal body.
I also put electrical tape on metal body (of both tweeters) so no wires would ever touch.
Was not convinced that paint is an adequate insulator.



Wired in with HD D-Sub Pins, so no wires needed to be cut.



Perfect press fit into existing speaker openings.
Like they were made for the car :cool:
 

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