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First, big thanks to both NAMJA and Chris TX for researching & sharing this!

Now once you have that on the wall, you can just plug in the 2016 Volt charger to it using an adapter or pigtail extension - http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=335 .
I looked at that adapter too. But I would definitely not recommend it - the specifications say its only rated for 10A, the Volt EVSE will pull 12A.

I'm thinking of buying a short 14 gauge NEMA 5-15 extension cable, then cutting off the plug end and fitting a 240V 6-15 plug in its place.
 

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Why isn't GM marketing it as capable of 120/240v if it is fully compatible inside?

If turbocord can make an adapter, certainly GM could, and sell it for a profit.
The Turbocord unit is specifically engineered so that you can't plug anything else into the adapter: No risk of somebody unknowingly plugging a 120V appliance into 240V. Betcha that Turbocord has a patent for that too...
 

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Thank you for sharing this valuable information Chris!
I'm sure I could make an adapter myself but I'm a little confused how you wire it.
I have a NEMA 10-30 dryer outlet (two 120V and a neutral). Do you combine the two 120V and connect that to the single hot on the NEMA 5-15? The 10-30 neutral would connect to the 5-15 neutral, correct? How and where do you connect the ground of the 5-15 receptacle? I know our Volt ESVE will not operate if it does not sense a ground.
Update: After reading more posts on this I'm sure my guess at the wiring above is way off. The confusing part is, on the Volt ESVE you begin running 120V into the neutral connection that wasn't there before. I assume the ESVE senses this and adapts to this? This is what I'm trying to grasp.
So you said hot, neutral, ground gets connected to hot, hot, neutral (you said ground). For the NEMA 10-30 you have 3 wires matching to 3 wires.
Do I have this correct?
Thank you.
 

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Thank you for sharing this valuable information Chris! .......

Update: After reading more posts on this I'm sure my guess at the wiring above is way off. The confusing part is, on the Volt ESVE you begin running 120V into the neutral connection that wasn't there before. I assume the ESVE senses this and adapts to this? This is what I'm trying to grasp.
So you said hot, neutral, ground gets connected to hot, hot, neutral (you said ground). For the NEMA 10-30 you have 3 wires matching to 3 wires.
Do I have this correct?
Thank you.
You got it right.
Check your elect panel and see if neutrals are on the ground bus.
If so, that 10-30 neutral should work as the 5-15 ground.
If not, you may need to run a ground wire.
I'm curious to hear how it turns out for you, as I need to do same at my other house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Thank you for sharing this valuable information Chris!
I'm sure I could make an adapter myself but I'm a little confused how you wire it.
I have a NEMA 10-30 dryer outlet (two 120V and a neutral). Do you combine the two 120V and connect that to the single hot on the NEMA 5-15? The 10-30 neutral would connect to the 5-15 neutral, correct? How and where do you connect the ground of the 5-15 receptacle? I know our Volt ESVE will not operate if it does not sense a ground.
Update: After reading more posts on this I'm sure my guess at the wiring above is way off. The confusing part is, on the Volt ESVE you begin running 120V into the neutral connection that wasn't there before. I assume the ESVE senses this and adapts to this? This is what I'm trying to grasp.
So you said hot, neutral, ground gets connected to hot, hot, neutral (you said ground). For the NEMA 10-30 you have 3 wires matching to 3 wires.
Do I have this correct?
Thank you.
The neutral "white" on the 5-15 gets a second leg of 120VAC. Just so we're all on the same page, both hots will come from separate legs in the breaker box. It would usually be black and red.

I've modified the NEMA diagram to show the two separate legs, now. The NEMA 5-15 and 5-20 will be the female connection that the EVSE gets plugged into, and everything else would be the male end that gets plugged into the receptacle that's providing 240VAC.

 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Do International customers get L2 EVSE?
Perhaps we get the same EVSE, except for the L1 connector?
Seems to work fine with the Chris TX QuickCharge Adapter and a Quick220.

View attachment 99554
Yes, but I think they are only 10A @ 220V. I've seen a few Israeli Volt EVSE like that pop up on Ebay.
 

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This is great info ... Chris: I'm assuming that with your adapter in place, the EVSE still has all the innate safety stuff still in play right? still same thermal protection, etc ... ? If so, I think i'll be in touch if your offer to help create an adapter is still in play....thx !
Jd
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
This is great info ... Chris: I'm assuming that with your adapter in place, the EVSE still has all the innate safety stuff still in play right? still same thermal protection, etc ... ? If so, I think i'll be in touch if your offer to help create an adapter is still in play....thx !
Jd
Yep! There's no modification to the plug at all and the thermal sensor still works.
 

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What if:
1.) GM finds some old inventory and provides an EVSE originally destined for a previous year?
2.) a dealer mixes up EVSEs and includes an EVSE originally destined for a previous year?
3.) ClipperCreek finds old inventory or cheaper versions of components and provides slightly different parts internally (not expecting they'll ever see 240v)?

Knowing all the different versions of EVSEs that have been supplied over the last 6 years, is it safe to assume that every '16 owner will receive an EVSE identical to the one dissected by Chris? The odds may be good, but the downside could be severe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
What if:
1.) GM finds some old inventory and provides an EVSE originally destined for a previous year?
2.) a dealer mixes up EVSEs and includes an EVSE originally destined for a previous year?
3.) ClipperCreek finds old inventory or cheaper versions of components and provides slightly different parts internally (not expecting they'll ever see 240v)?

Knowing all the different versions of EVSEs that have been supplied over the last 6 years, is it safe to assume that every '16 owner will receive an EVSE identical to the one dissected by Chris? The odds may be good, but the downside could be severe.
Hmm, maybe include a picture that shows what the 2016 EVSE looks like? As for Clipper creek, the switching transformer they use is a very new package design (and might even be a custom part for CC) by WE and the lower voltage and higher voltage ones are all going to be the same age. They buy direct from WE since they are the manufacturer. If that component part number changes, I could see the need for a different part number by GM, since technically it would be a different unit revision by Clipper Creek. Usually, when this kind of contract is negotiated between GM and CC, the supplier would agree to not change anything and to select "long life" components so nothing goes end of life on the parts that are supplied to CC.

Additionally, with all the extra safety features built into this EVSE which keeps the plug from getting all melty, if I was GM, I would purge all the Lear and older Clipper Creek EVSEs and start using this new one. So many less warranty claims.

In any case, just make sure your 2016 EVSE looks like this:
 

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I got the Green Light! / Another successful adapter made.

Technology Wire Electronic device Auto part Electronics accessory

Just want to say thanks again to Chris TX, lunarx, and everyone else on this thread. I made my adapter today.
My 10 gauge NEMA 10-30 dryer cord was sourced from Home Depot for $17.97. I would have purchased the NEMA 5-20 receptacle there as well but they were completely sold out. Must have had a rush of people from this forum ha ha! So I went to Lowe's and purchased my NEMA 5-20R for $14.97. Thanks Chris for mentioning this beefier 20A receptacle. Beefier is definitely better! My total cost was about $36.00 including tax.

Technology Cable Electronic device Tire Torch

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I put some "240V ONLY!!" warning labels on my adapter just in case. I also blacked out the "125V" on the receptacle. I was debating on whether I should cut my adapter cord short, to like one foot. But then I thought that would just be a waste of the rest of the cord so I left it at 6 feet. This is after all, nice 10 gauge wire!
For me, the wiring part of it makes sense after looking at Chris' photos of the Volt's ESVE circuit board. You can see the one connection that is made to either be a neutral or 120V. Now it all makes sense!:D

By the way, if you're not in a rush to make an adapter you can order parts on eBay for much cheaper. There are 5-20 receptacles for $7.05 and different plug ends for around $13.00. I am going to make adapters for the NEMA 14-30P and 14-50P as well. Just to cover different situations/locations I may encounter in the future. Since my original NEMA 10-30 10 gauge dryer cable is so long (6 feet) I am going to cut off one foot sections of it for these additional two adapters and I will be set!:D These additional adapters will be costing me about $20.00 each since I don't have to buy additional wire.
 

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Now is it ok to leave the EVSE plugged in all the time even when not connected to the car. I hate to keep unplugging and causing a spark, which in turn will wear the outlet.
Always unplug the J1772 plug prior to disconnecting the cord from the wall. When the latch button on the J1772 plug is first pushed, you can hear the relay unlatched, thus stopping the high current. Now there should not be any spark when you disconnect the wall plug.
 
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