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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
"Not Able To Charge" message on DIC when charge cord is connected. 2016 Volt with 56k miles and not a single issue since we purchased it 5 years ago. Drove 180miles on Friday to visit our son for the weekend with no problems. Used gas on the highway in HOLD mode and used battery for towns and slow stretches. Car sat for 2 days until early Sunday AM when I plugged in my original factory GM charge cord. No light on charge indicator on the dash. No green light flashing, no red or yellow light either. Status lights on charger are normal green. DIC shows "Not Able To Charge" message with no CEL. Charge cord was plugged into the same 120volt 15amp outlet used to charge my son's Nissan Leaf. Works perfectly. Plugged his original factory charge cord into our 2016 Volt and green flashing light appeared as normal. Status lights on charger are normal green too.

Left car charging for 6 hours and headed home with no issues and no CEL. Car had approx 40miles of charge when we left. Came home and plugged our charge cord into its home AC outlet and no light on the dash. No nothing. I have to assume the original GM charge cord has failed, right? Note: Status lights on charger are normal green.

Can anyone recommend a third-party charge cord that works and won't cost an arm and a leg from a dependable source? No use for a Level 2 charger as the 100+ year old carriage house we use as a garage has only one 15amp circuit and upgrading would cost a fortune, Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the suggestion. That one appears to be back-ordered, but I will call them later today. So, you agree the charge cord must be dead?
 

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I second Danno's suggestion. Initially I was going to mention a MEGEAR or Duosida 16A Level 2 with the adapter plug, but the Napa deal is ~$50 less. I tend to believe they are all likely made by the same company anyway... I've had the MEGEAR since July and no issues (using it on a 6-20 outlet).
 

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Thank you for the suggestion. That one appears to be back-ordered, but I will call them later today. So, you agree the charge cord must be dead?
It's safe to deduce that being the case, given what you posted. The Clipper Creek version is made in the USA, and it's the OEM vender for the Gen2 charge cord. I did see that it's back ordered, but the good thing is the Volt can run on gas in the interim. Note they also offer used/refurbished ones which they take in on their "trade up" program. For those you'd have to call.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for your suggestions. I was all set to go to NAPA for the Schumacher since NAPA has a store just a quick drive away, BUT I cannot find any information to verify if it is "UL Listed". More searching for other brands of L1 charge cords and I don't seem to find listing anywhere. Really? Are these NOT UL Listed? Home insurance company made a big deal about not covering a home if electrical equipment is not UL Listed long ago and that's a deal killer for me. Ideas ?
 

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Thank you all for your suggestions. I was all set to go to NAPA for the Schumacher since NAPA has a store just a quick drive away, BUT I cannot find any information to verify if it is "UL Listed". More searching for other brands of L1 charge cords and I don't seem to find listing anywhere. Really? Are these NOT UL Listed? Home insurance company made a big deal about not covering a home if electrical equipment is not UL Listed long ago and that's a deal killer for me. Ideas ?
Clipper Creek is UL listed. Some of the cheaper foreign ones are not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I am going to order one of these: Turbo Cord . Price is right and it is UL Listed so it will keep the insurance company happy :) Will post again when I receive it and try it out.
 

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I think I am going to order one of these: Turbo Cord . Price is right and it is UL Listed so it will keep the insurance company happy :) Will post again when I receive it and try it out.
I had one of those. It's the smallest outdoor & UL rated 120/240 unit out there. Mine recently died after ~6 years of outdoor use, but it's a good one. I didn't know they were still available after AeroVironment stopped making them.
 

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Really? Are these NOT UL Listed? Home insurance company made a big deal about not covering a home if electrical equipment is not UL Listed long ago and that's a deal killer for me. Ideas ?
Sucks that an insurance company is forcing you to pay for basically a second insurance policy. (UL = Underwriters Laboratory = insurance company, basically). UL is not the only accepted safety agency, FYI.

More importantly though, it is unlikely that a non-UL listed device would void your home insurance policy in the case of a claim. Can you provide evidence to the claim that every electrical device in your house must be UL listed?

-Charlie
 

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Thank you all for your suggestions. I was all set to go to NAPA for the Schumacher since NAPA has a store just a quick drive away, BUT I cannot find any information to verify if it is "UL Listed". More searching for other brands of L1 charge cords and I don't seem to find listing anywhere. Really? Are these NOT UL Listed? Home insurance company made a big deal about not covering a home if electrical equipment is not UL Listed long ago and that's a deal killer for me. Ideas ?
Don't ask, don't tell.
 

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FarmerBoy,

Question: did you mention if your car can charge on any other EVSE? town, shopping mall etc.?

Stephen

"Not Able To Charge" message on DIC when charge cord is connected. 2016 Volt with 56k miles and not a single issue since we purchased it 5 years ago. Drove 180miles on Friday to visit our son for the weekend with no problems. Used gas on the highway in HOLD mode and used battery for towns and slow stretches. Car sat for 2 days until early Sunday AM when I plugged in my original factory GM charge cord. No light on charge indicator on the dash. No green light flashing, no red or yellow light either. Status lights on charger are normal green. DIC shows "Not Able To Charge" message with no CEL. Charge cord was plugged into the same 120volt 15amp outlet used to charge my son's Nissan Leaf. Works perfectly. Plugged his original factory charge cord into our 2016 Volt and green flashing light appeared as normal. Status lights on charger are normal green too.

Left car charging for 6 hours and headed home with no issues and no CEL. Car had approx 40miles of charge when we left. Came home and plugged our charge cord into its home AC outlet and no light on the dash. No nothing. I have to assume the original GM charge cord has failed, right? Note: Status lights on charger are normal green.

Can anyone recommend a third-party charge cord that works and won't cost an arm and a leg from a dependable source? No use for a Level 2 charger as the 100+ year old carriage house we use as a garage has only one 15amp circuit and upgrading would cost a fortune, Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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"Not Able To Charge" message on DIC when charge cord is connected. 2016 Volt with 56k miles and not a single issue since we purchased it 5 years ago. Drove 180miles on Friday to visit our son for the weekend with no problems. Used gas on the highway in HOLD mode and used battery for towns and slow stretches. Car sat for 2 days until early Sunday AM when I plugged in my original factory GM charge cord. No light on charge indicator on the dash. No green light flashing, no red or yellow light either. Status lights on charger are normal green. DIC shows "Not Able To Charge" message with no CEL. Charge cord was plugged into the same 120volt 15amp outlet used to charge my son's Nissan Leaf. Works perfectly. Plugged his original factory charge cord into our 2016 Volt and green flashing light appeared as normal. Status lights on charger are normal green too.

Left car charging for 6 hours and headed home with no issues and no CEL. Car had approx 40miles of charge when we left. Came home and plugged our charge cord into its home AC outlet and no light on the dash. No nothing. I have to assume the original GM charge cord has failed, right? Note: Status lights on charger are normal green.

Can anyone recommend a third-party charge cord that works and won't cost an arm and a leg from a dependable source? No use for a Level 2 charger as the 100+ year old carriage house we use as a garage has only one 15amp circuit and upgrading would cost a fortune, Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
I'd check your coolant levels first.
If your electronic coolant level is low, your Volt will not accept any charge.
 

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"Not Able To Charge" message on DIC when charge cord is connected. 2016 Volt with 56k miles and not a single issue since we purchased it 5 years ago. Drove 180miles on Friday to visit our son for the weekend with no problems. Used gas on the highway in HOLD mode and used battery for towns and slow stretches. Car sat for 2 days until early Sunday AM when I plugged in my original factory GM charge cord. No light on charge indicator on the dash. No green light flashing, no red or yellow light either. Status lights on charger are normal green. DIC shows "Not Able To Charge" message with no CEL. Charge cord was plugged into the same 120volt 15amp outlet used to charge my son's Nissan Leaf. Works perfectly. Plugged his original factory charge cord into our 2016 Volt and green flashing light appeared as normal. Status lights on charger are normal green too.

Left car charging for 6 hours and headed home with no issues and no CEL. Car had approx 40miles of charge when we left. Came home and plugged our charge cord into its home AC outlet and no light on the dash. No nothing. I have to assume the original GM charge cord has failed, right? Note: Status lights on charger are normal green.

Can anyone recommend a third-party charge cord that works and won't cost an arm and a leg from a dependable source? No use for a Level 2 charger as the 100+ year old carriage house we use as a garage has only one 15amp circuit and upgrading would cost a fortune, Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
It is quite easy to remove the cover of the charger and check the fuses.
 

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Well I have had the same issue with my cord a couple of times I use mine daily at work.
If you don't mind opening the case and ohm checking the wires you should be able to find your problem. The wires tend to break from repeated strain at the connector strain relief. Both times mine was one of the wires going to the car side plug.
Shortening the wire and making a splice inside the case and been working ok for a couple of years now.
2016 with 120,000 miles and still loving it!
 
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