GM Volt Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I followed the procedures in this video- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_fFrB4KOYk

Didn't work for my 2015 Volt. It's the same diode as in the video, and multimeter test showed the diodes were fine(got 0.480 V in one direction and over limit in the other direction). I did check the diode was installed in the right direction, cathode(gray mark on the diode) on the driver direction looking from the front. Has anyone done the mod to your '15 Volt?

Many thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
It was difficult for me to remove the plug on the driver side but there was enough room for me insert the diode ends into the yellow and blue wire connectors without removing the plug. Unfortunately it didn't work- headlights and DRL couldn't be on at the same time.

I did sharpen the ends of the diode for east insertion. I hope I didn't thin it too much causing contact problem.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,968 Posts
I often wonder why someone would want to defeat daytime running lights. Replacing the bulbs 1X instead of 2x over the course of 300k miles? Gaining an insignificant amount of electric range?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
This method is a kludge at best - you are relying on good intentions to make contact with the conductors. I did it, but it took several tries, and I wasn't happy about it from an engineering standpoint. It would be much better to use taps (Posi-Tap is my favorite, Scotch-Loks are horrible) that assure that you have a solid contact.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Posi-Tap-PTA-2022-EX-130R-604-red-gray-Posi-Tap-WIRE-TAP-20-22-Awg-10-pack/252424889430?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Best Regards,

e
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I often wonder why someone would want to defeat daytime running lights. Replacing the bulbs 1X instead of 2x over the course of 300k miles? Gaining an insignificant amount of electric range?
I don't want to disable daytime running lights to save pennies. I want to turn on both headlights and DRL when it's dark as I always feel the Volt headlights by itself is not bright enough. Part of my daily driving route is country road, and with the sunset getting early now, finally I could not stand the headlight any more. Sorry if my OP was confusing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thank you!

I like your idea, but I'm an electrical dummy. Anything I should be aware so i wont cut off the yellow and light wire insteading of just connecting them together with taps?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,968 Posts
I don't want to disable daytime running lights to save pennies. I want to turn on both headlights and DRL when it's dark
Ah! Thanks for the clarification, Ponde. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
This method is a kludge at best - you are relying on good intentions to make contact with the conductors. I did it, but it took several tries, and I wasn't happy about it from an engineering standpoint. It would be much better to use taps (Posi-Tap is my favorite, Scotch-Loks are horrible) that assure that you have a solid contact.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Posi-Tap-PTA-2022-EX-130R-604-red-gray-Posi-Tap-WIRE-TAP-20-22-Awg-10-pack/252424889430?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Best Regards,

e
What you said inspired me. I tried again. It worked! Headlights and DRL all turned on now.

I did tried multiple times on both sides in order to get contact. I was lucky to buy a pack of 10 diodes, so I had plenty at hand to try a new one instead of straightening out a bent diode that did not work.

BTW, I did not remove the plugs on both sides. It was not difficult. The difficult part to get a good contact. On the passenger side, I did remove the engine air filter cover to make some room.

Many thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,201 Posts
I found that swapping out the turn signals with yellow/white switchback LEDs got me a lot more light and it spills out to the sides more too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,439 Posts
I found it hard to get contact as well. I skipped the sharpening part, so that may be part of my problem. I found it worked better while I was holding it and pressing it in, so I wrapped it with electrical tape to help keep pressure on it. Mine has held up fine for a long time. I really appreciate the added light.

Interestingly, the European Ampera version of the car keeps the DRLs on with headlights by default.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I found that swapping out the turn signals with yellow/white switchback LEDs got me a lot more light and it spills out to the sides more too.
Was it difficult to do the passenger side? I suppose resistors are needed. How would you hold them into places?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Switchbacks are great, but a pain to install. You must install 6Ω 50W resistors or you will get the annoying "Hyper-Flash". The resistors are impossible to install on the passenger side, but not too hard to install on the Driver's side. There is a 5-wire connector behind the bumper on the Driver's side that has the wires for the turn signals that you need to tap into - I put both resistors here, attached to a heat sink, and wire-tied the assembly to the frame. It is tight to the frame member and doesn't flop around. In use, the resistors will get hotter than a June bride in a feather bed, so keep them away from anything that might melt.

Posi-Tap connectors (22 - 20 gauge) are a must to tap into the wires; Scotch-Lok taps simply don't work, and are a pain to install in the confined space.

The resistors are tapped into the light green/violet wire and the light blue/white wires. The other end of the resistors go to ground, the black wire. It is an easy job, the hard part is getting to that connector. Not a lot of room.

Best Regards,

e
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,336 Posts
Without diodes, when the DRLs are on they will send 12V to the headlights. Not a good idea.

Best Regards,

e
My bad...the DRL(s) in my Volt are ONLY on when the headlamp(s) are on thats why I required no diodes for the mod!:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
I also did the simple "jam the bent-up diode into the back of the wiring harness" trick. I've removed and re-installed it at least 4 times now, and every time it's a beeeatch to get them seated just right to make contact and do the thing where the DRLs will stay on when the headlights come on and the BCM stops sending 12V to them. But even though I've plugged and un-plugged several times and had this mod on for a couple years now, no problems. I have a nice HID kit installed that has the ballast box behind the headlight area and that makes it harder to reach the wiring harness, so I use a pair of really long needle-nosed pliers to remove it and then install the diodes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,201 Posts
Was it difficult to do the passenger side? I suppose resistors are needed. How would you hold them into places?
I removed the wheel and wheel housing for the install so almost as easy for the passenger side. The bulbs stay in like stock bulbs, just insert and twist. Wiring is soldered for durability and load resistors stuck to the metal frame with conductive tape.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top