It's a wild guess, but if ALL FOUR reference circuits inside the ECM are showing faults, they're probably going to start by replacing the ECM. P262B is a semi-generic code that gets set when one of the modules reports that it's failed, which is also consistent. P24BA is an oddball that seems to USUALLY relate to a leak in the fuel-tank sealing but it seems unlikely that this would be CAUSING an ECM failure, so I don't know if it's important to this or not.
2014 Volt Shifts But Does Not Move - I did replace the 12V battery..
I have a 2014 Volt that is stuck in my garage. It worked fine one day, and the next morning would start with the ICE, shift, but not move, even with brakes off and accelerator depressed. I searched the forums here, and immediately replaced the 12V battery as it sounds like others have had this problem in the past. I also removed paint from the 12V battery ground area and reattached the ground cable. I checked codes, and there were many, so I cleared them. This did not solve the problem.
When I restart, the codes come back. There are a number of reference voltage codes (P0641, P0651, P0697, P06A3), but also P24BA and P262B which I cannot identify with any specificity.
I would be grateful for any suggestions. I live on an island and getting the car to a dealer would mean a tow on a ferry. I am happy to drive the car to the dealer if I can just get it to move!
When I restart, the codes come back. There are a number of reference voltage codes (P0641, P0651, P0697, P06A3), but also P24BA and P262B which I cannot identify with any specificity.
I would be grateful for any suggestions. I live on an island and getting the car to a dealer would mean a tow on a ferry. I am happy to drive the car to the dealer if I can just get it to move!
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Thank you, Peter. I have been operating under the assumption that I could have an ECM failure, but I was hopeful that all of the codes I am seeing were related to the 12V (as others have seen on this forum in the past). Is there a way to affirmatively identify an ECM failure? Should I bite the bullet and just have the vehicle towed?
I guess my followup question would be - if I buy a new ECM, it looks like a simple connection install. Would it need to be flashed specific to my vehicle or is it just plug an play?
Thank you for that information. Can the ECM and other CM's be reset by isolating the 12V battery and connecting the positive and negative 12V battery leads? I know this works on other ICE vehicles..
I am not sure, but in general, I would advise against directly connecting the the two cables as the rapid discharge may fry the ECM. Better to use a large power resistor that will allow the capacitors in the ECM to drain slowly. In a pinch, I have connected the cables together through the two blades on the plug of a soldering iron (or any other multi-watt resistive load) to allow the caps to drain somewhat slowly.
Or perhaps the huge resistor in a battery tester?
I'm not sure what the impedance the load resistor would be. In general I would shoot for something in the 100 ohm range to keep the current in the sub 0.2 amp range. Just my guess. A battery tester may have a sub 1 ohm resistor which for this purpose would be acting like a short and allow a large initial current flow which I would personally be wanting to avoid.Or perhaps the huge resistor in a battery tester?
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