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Hello all. I have had my Volt for 6 years now. No issues. Suddenly I am having 3 issues. I will post the issues in 3 seperate posts.

This post has to do with the message I recieved. I went to the auto parts store and purchased a OBD2 reader. It sent back the code, P1E00, which indicates the fluid is low. I checked the fluid, which is in the normal range. I was going to check the drain plug, but don't see it. Any thoughts? Could it just be a bad sensor? I reset it today and it has not come back on. I have 91,000 miles on my 2014. Does anyone know if this is covered under the Voltec warranty?

Pete
 

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Don't reset codes if something is under warranty!
 

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When you checked the fluids, you checked both tanks? It sounds like the battery coolant level might be a touch low. That sensor trips pretty early on my 2014. Just make sure you use actual GM premixed coolant. There are many threads talking about problems if you dilute a concentrate yourself. It's one place you don't want to go cheap.
 

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Howdy folks.

I just got this same fault on my way home from work this evening. I used the ChargePoint at work this morning to top it off and everything was fine. It is a very hot day, but it was in the shade this afternoon. Some quick googling on this fault led me to check the coolant resevoirs, this is what I found. Do these look low enough to be the issue? I’ve only had the car since January, and it is pretty high miles (135K), but I have all or most of the service records and it was babied until I got it. I’m thinking it’s a no brainer to top all of these reservoirs off, any reason I shouldn’t use this coolant? It’s supposed to be compatible with anything, and it’s 50-50 ...

Edit: I just read through the coolant level section of the owners manual. It looks like all of the tanks should be filled to the line that has the arrow pointing down to it? I’d say all of mine are an inch or so below that…

Edit #2: So, I got impatient. Man, getting that metal bracket that keeps you from taking the lid off the high-voltage battery coolant reservoir is a pain. I filled all the reservoirs up to the full line, drove to O’Reilly and reset the code. Fingers crossed!

Thanks, Doug

170752


170753


170754
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170755
 

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Doug, you used the wrong coolant! You must use Dex-Cool part number 12378390 which is used in ALL GM EV's. It is made with de-ionized water which is non-conductive. This quote is from a certified Voltec technician on Facebook:

Jaryd Carvell-> Hi friendly neighborhood volt tech here! Vehicles equipped with high voltage storage and propulsion systems are designed with the high voltage circuits completely isolated from the vehicle chassis. If either the positive or negative high voltage DC circuits or any of the high voltage AC phase circuits lose this isolation to the vehicle chassis, DTCs will set and the battery contactors will open. This is to prevent electrifying the vehicle chassis with high voltage. Similar to typical 12V vehicle systems, loss of isolation can be as simple as a direct conductor-to-chassis short. Unlike 12V systems however, the potential within high voltage systems means that insulation breakdown is also a cause for loss of isolation. Because the battery cooling system and a/c system use high voltage components that are bolted directly to the vehicle ground, the fluid that they contain (coolant or a/c oil) need to be electrically insulating (ie they don't conduct electricity). De-ionized water does not have free electrons and does not conduct electricity, and therefore acts as an electrical insulator (just like the insulation around a wire). Tap water has dissolved salts and minerals and is an electrical conductor, and therefore will allow power to bleed through into the vehicle's chassis and set dtcs. Honestly, half a cup PROBABLY isn't enough to cause a problem, but GM is VERY adamant that only dex cool pre-mixed with de-ionized water be used in HV cooling systems, just as the a/c must use a special electrically insulating oil to prevent a loss of isolation. Use only DEX-COOL part no. 12378390 in a Volt or any GM EV or PHEV.
 
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Thanks for your response and for your concern :) I’m relatively certain that pre-mixed 50/50 coolant uses DI water, it certainly is not tapwater. Pretty sure that stuff is generic dexcool, and I doubt enough of it went into really make any difference because of dilution. That said, the code came back the next day. I was all pleased with myself, the car charged overnight etc. Guess I need to find someplace to take it in and have it checked out, Any suggestions in the Chandler/Tempe/Gilbert area?
 

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I’m relatively certain that pre-mixed 50/50 coolant uses DI water, it certainly is not tapwater.
According to the label of that FVP coolant you used, it says it's made with de-mineralized water. That's simply distilled water, and NOT de-ionized water. Probably the small amount you added won't make a difference, but too much of that will throw loss of isolation codes which you don't want.
 

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I've used Earnhart Chevy on Arizona Ave and Warner, look for Rick Hamilton service advisor
 

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Okay, no response (so far) from the dealership/service advisor I left messages for. Is it OK to drive the car like this? Obviously, it’s going to run out of charge fairly quickly. Am I putting the car at risk driving it on the ICE? Thanks again, Doug
 

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Note: the Fill point on the battery tank it to the TOP of the black tape - good to have a clear point to help notice any loss over time.

I drove 6 months not being able to charge ( other than MM) before dealer ( finally at no charge ) re-programmed to fix codes. BUT if I lived where it was very COLD - I would not do that.
 
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Okay, I took it to one of the 2 nearby dealers that were recommended here. I haven’t spoken to the service advisor yet, but this is what I found in their text update. Does this seem right? I was expecting it to be the coolant level sensor, which I gather generally is repaired for somewhere in the $100-$300 range :(

So I did get a voicemail, their diagnosis is that the float in the reservoir is not working and the reservoir needs to be replaced. Is that how this “coolant level sensor“ works? I was under the impression that it was a cheap part that was replaced separately from the reservoir, but I could be totally off base…

Thanks, Doug
170773

170774
 

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Is not the float device in the tank just a magnet and the removable sensor that slides out easy under the tank is just a magnetic reed switch ?? More likely the sensor on the tank bottom slid out of position.


and the wiper fluid tank works about the same ? ( for those Volts that have it )

optical device would seem to cost more
 
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Is not the float device in the tank just a magnet and the removable sensor that slides out easy under the tank is just a magnetic reed switch ?? More likely the sensor on the tank bottom slid out of position.


and the wiper fluid tank works about the same ? ( for those Volts that have it )

optical device would seem to cost more
Yes, the float has a magnet on the bottom and the sensor is a simple magnetic reed switch, but it's not on/off but has resistors internal. I have removed the sensor from the bottom of my tank and replaced it with the bypass plug.
 

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I posted this in another thread, but I ended up having the codes cleared and bringing the car home. We drove it in hold mode, got home without a new warning, and let the car sit (no driving, no charging) until the sensor bypass arrived. My assumption was that the bypass would fix either a bad sensor, a bad/stuck float, or both. Got it installed (not that much fun) on a hot day on my lunch break and all is well now :)
 
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