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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So over the last three weeks, my 2014 has developed a loud squeal when the engine is on during both cuise and deceleration to a stop. I just had the water pump, the water pump belt, and two radiator hoses. The problem persists. The squeal will start loud then go down in pitch until it tails off. It seems like it comes from the passenger side of the engine bay and correlates with the off and on of the engine. I have turned the AC off to see if that might be it but it still happens. Running out of patience here. Thanks
 

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Either the new belt is slipping or one of the pulleys is bad.
 

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Never assume they did the job right.
 

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Ill bet they reused the old belt. Either way, it needs to go back for them to fix it. We can only offer guesses for you.
 

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Just as a test, pop the hood with the car on, the engine will run. Pull out the dip stick and see if it has an effect on the noise.
 

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So over the last three weeks, my 2014 has developed a loud squeal when the engine is on during both cuise and deceleration to a stop. I just had the water pump, the water pump belt, and two radiator hoses. The problem persists. The squeal will start loud then go down in pitch until it tails off. It seems like it comes from the passenger side of the engine bay and correlates with the off and on of the engine. I have turned the AC off to see if that might be it but it still happens. Running out of patience here. Thanks
The A/C compressor is powered off the battery - the engine is not required to run for A/C.

I just had the water pump, the water pump belt, and two radiator hoses [replaced?].
The belt is loose. Everything else is/was probably fine.

Somewhat off topic...
I found a shady dealer that would insert a problem whenever I brought my truck in for service - Squealing belts was one of the problems. When I took it back to get that fixed, the truck came back with something else wrong. Eventually, the starter started shrieking when starting the engine. I was able to remove the starter to inspect it (nothing wrong with it), but in the process discovered the 12V battery connection to the battery had been loosened. The problem was that that connection couldn't have come loose on its own - a plastic insulating cover over the nut on the stud had to be removed to loosen the nut. That cover also locked the nut in place. I never went back to that dealer again for repairs.

You might be experiencing a shady dealer/mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK… the plot thickens… I took my car to the Chevy dealer here in Los Angeles and told them to diagnose the problem. They came back with a story that it is a vacuum leak at my crankshaft seal. I'm trying to do a little research on the Internet about it but I'm not sure if I should believe that or not. It definitely has something to do with the motor so that makes sense but it just doesn't sound like a leak noise. It sounds more like a rotational mechanical problem. Either way that fix would be about $1600 which is BS. On a related topic, does anybody know what recourse I have with the independent garage that diagnosed this problem as a water pump and water pump belt that needed replacement. Obviously, that did not do the trick but can I go back to them and say you blew it?
 

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I'm going to wave the BS flag on a crankshaft vacuum leak. This is not a 2 stroke type engine like is in a boat, or older dirt bike. It is a 4 stroke engine with a positive crankcase ventilation system that takes any pressure that gets past the rings and returns it to the intake same as all modern vehicles.
If your crankshaft had a leak it would be oil leaking out not air leaking in. Very funny idea. But, that's why they are called Stealerships not repair centers. Lol
 

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I'm going to wave the BS flag on a crankshaft vacuum leak. This is not a 2 stroke type engine like is in a boat, or older dirt bike. It is a 4 stroke engine with a positive crankcase ventilation system that takes any pressure that gets past the rings and returns it to the intake same as all modern vehicles.
If your crankshaft had a leak it would be oil leaking out not air leaking in. Very funny idea. But, that's why they are called Stealerships not repair centers. Lol
4 stroke engines have a PCV system always scavenging the crankcase air into the intake manifold. If the crankcase breather gets blocked then you have manifold vacuum applying negative pressure to the crankcase. This will make the seals squeal like crazy. I've ran into it quite a few times. Pulling out the dipstick is a quick check for this condition.
 

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I had a '97 BMW 328i that would howl under certain conditions with the PCV system sucking air past the rear main seal.
The dealer fixed the PCV system problem and replaced the rear main seal and the car was good till I sold it 13 years later.

$1,600 is painful but probably not out of line for such a repair.
 

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...just had the pump, belt, and hoses replaced.....
Did you ever find a resolution to this? I'm on a simit situation. There's a loud screeching whining noise when the ice motor comes to a stop. My mechanic replaced the water pump and drive belt to no luck. Any info would be appreciated, thank you.
 

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Apparently a bad front crank seal is a thing. This video is for the Cruze and the procedure to get to the seal may well be a little different but it's a pretty simple repair.

 

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And furthermore there was a TSB about this very issue a few years ago. Could be the PVC, the water pump or front crank seal. Also gives troubleshooting tips to see where the issue is.



Service Bulletin
File in Section: Bulletin No.: Date:
-
PI1297B February, 2015
Subject: Models:
Attention:
PRELIMINARY INFORMATION
Diagnostic Tips for Engine Compartment Whistle Noise or Chirp Noise
2013-2015 Buick Encore
2014-2015 Cadillac ELR
2013-2015 Chevrolet Cruze, Sonic, Trax, Volt Equipped with 1.4L Engine (RPO LUV or LUU)
This PI also applies to any of the above models that may be China, Europe and Australia Export models.
This PI has been revised to update the Subject and Condition/Concern. Please discard PI1297A.

Condition/Concern
Some customers may comment about a whistle or chirp noise heard from the engine area after the vehicle has warmed up. It is also possible for this noise to continue for up to 10 seconds after the engine is shut off.
Recommendation/Instructions
There may be several causes for a whistle noise from the engine compartment. It is important to try and isolate what component could be causing this whistle noise without replacing multiple parts by following the diagnostic tips below:
Vacuum leak at the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) control valve
• With the engine running, place your finger over the breather port of the PCV diaphragm cover. If the whistle noise stops and/or the fuel trims are high then return to normal levels, this is an indication of a vacuum leak at this location. Proceed to the next tip if the noise is still present. Otherwise, replace the camshaft cover assembly and retest.
Vacuum leak most likely at the front crankshaft seal
• With the engine running, remove the oil dip stick. If the noise stops, it was due to a vacuum leak most likely at the front crankshaft seal. Replace the seal and retest. For this fault, a customer may also comment that they hear the noise for up to 10 seconds after the engine is shut off. This is due to the vacuum in the engine crankcase equalizing with the atmospheric pressure. Proceed to the next tip if the noise is still present.
Water Pump
Whistle noise at the water pump may be caused by one of the following:
• • •
Low coolant with air moving through the cooling system. Noisy water pump bearing (rattle or growl).
The coolant shaft seal (higher pitched whine, typically heard at idle only with engine warm).
Squeeze the upper radiator hose to see if this changes or stops the whistle sound. If not, carefully reduce the pressure in the reservoir tank. If the noise goes away, try adding coolant while thoroughly bleeding the air out of the cooling system. Proceed to the next tip if the noise is still present.
Drive Belt
• Remove the accessory drive belt and start the engine. If the noise goes away, then it could have been due to the water pump or the belt tensioner. The use of a stethoscope to listen for the location of the noise may help to isolate which component is causing the noise.
 
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My 2014 volt makes the same exact noise as the video above (front crank shaft seal gone bad) and the noise also stops when you pull the dip stick out.... Only problem is that the video is for a Chevy Cruz. From the looks of it the Chevy volt has a similar engine... so this should help me enough to be able to accomplish the seal change..
 

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The video above is for the Cruze but the TSB is for the Volt as well as a few other GMs.
 
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