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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went into a restaurant to pick up food (lLas Vegas, over 100 F) and my 2014 Volt went haywire when I turned it back on. The first thing I realized is that the seat heater was on, then noticed that everything was in Metric and the displayed temperature kept switching between -30 and 30 Celcius. After I figured out how to switch back to US units, the temperature shows -22 F, occasionally flashing the correct temperature. Four system messages pop up on the dash. Some of the scrolling menu icons have changed. The A/C may blow cold for a few minutes but then just blows hot air. Charging works fine and I can drive on battery power, but the display does not show any charge nor estimated mileage. Any idea what I should expect when I take it to the dealership?

172721


172722



What should be showing:
172723
 
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12V battery failing?
 

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Yup, another vote for the 12V battery. Main suspect.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hmm, seems odd to me that the 12-Volt battery would be the culprit but I'll definitely check it out. That would be a much easier and cheaper fix than I was anticipating. Thanks for the responses! Now I may not need to go to the dealership.

When the prior battery went out in 2015 or 2016, it was just dead when I returned home after being away for a week or two.
 

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Let us know what it ends up being! A 12V battery failing can cause all sorts of issues, but I suppose what you’re seeing could be caused by a specific circuit board module failing?
 

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Yes BlueEagle let us know if it was 12v. I too have 2014 with 91k miles now and after closing in on 8years of ownership by this OCT I a too am considering to preemp 12v battery issues though I do check it at least once a year but one never knows when it suddenly dies. Though no problems yet for me I am considering letting the dealer change it for $200 bucks to avoid the hassle and since Sams decided not to carry the H5 AGM battery anymore. Keep us posted please.
 

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Issues sound unrelated to one another. Sounds like water intrusion into a fuse box. 12V battery will either start the vehicle or not. If the red battery dummy light isn’t lit when running, voltage isn’t low.

I’ve jumped these from cold dead and once the range extender gets going the red “low 12V battery” icon on the cluster stays for maybe 5 minutes while it charges. Then disappears without a restart.

Check for wet carpets both cabin floor and cargo area.


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and check if the battery cables are not on tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, the 12V battery passed the test at AutoZone. The young lady wanted to test the battery while starting the car and was confused why I couldn't "start it all the way." I popped the hood to start the range extender but she said that wasn't enough...

Anyway, the Chevrolet dealership performed an inspection and told me that the instrument panel cluster needs to be replaced, out the door cost is $1,030 o_O
 

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Shouldn't the battery be tested while disconnected from the system? The main battery will supply a lot of power to the 12v line while the car is on, which is why AC power mods exist.

Dealer conclusion is sketchy. Your battery is 5+ years old and you live in a hot environment.
 

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This happened to my 2013 a couple of years ago. I searched the forum and found that it had happened to another owner previously. His solution was to disconnect the negative terminal on the 12V battery for 5-10 minutes to let everything discharge and then re-connect. Worked for me too.
 

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Well, the 12V battery passed the test at AutoZone. The young lady wanted to test the battery while starting the car and was confused why I couldn't "start it all the way." I popped the hood to start the range extender but she said that wasn't enough...

Anyway, the Chevrolet dealership performed an inspection and told me that the instrument panel cluster needs to be replaced, out the door cost is $1,030 o_O
This is not a valid test for the battery in the volt. She was performing a starter test, and the 12v battery does not power the engine starter in the Volt. In vehicle battery testers often give erroneous results. Save yourself all the time and guessing and just replace it. If it was last done in 2016 then its time for a new one, especially in Vegas heat.
 

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It is hot here in Texas too and when a power port digital volt meter showed 11.9 Volt after stopping the volt during the 10 min power window - I replaced the battery

that was at the 7+ year point on the original 2012 volt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I talked to the service advisor about my concerns regarding the battery. He wasn't rude but basically indicated that I was crazy for suggesting that the trained technician who wouldn't risk his career with GM to suggest unneeded work was wrong and somebody on an internet forum was right. He said the first thing done was to check the battery, but he'll ask the hybrid tech to test it again on Monday. The code given wasn't low voltage but something indicating the IPC according to the diagnostic tree.
 

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That's kind of the thing: if your 12v source isn't reliable, then neither are the codes being set reliable. THAT said, if the SAME codes are being set multiple times, then you've probably got a real problem, and while the 12v may need replacing IN ADDITION, it's not the cause.
 

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I talked to the service advisor about my concerns regarding the battery. He wasn't rude but basically indicated that I was crazy for suggesting that the trained technician who wouldn't risk his career with GM to suggest unneeded work was wrong and somebody on an internet forum was right. He said the first thing done was to check the battery, but he'll ask the hybrid tech to test it again on Monday. The code given wasn't low voltage but something indicating the IPC according to the diagnostic tree.
How CYA of him to think so highly of his technician. Lot of moral grandstanding if you ask me. Any one in a dealership would rip a customer off in a heartbeat if it’s the last week of the month and they’re about to miss quota.

But let’s face facts. The dealer wants your money in literally touching on every single thing that is NOT the issue, and hopefully by the time you’re broke, you’ll also be out of warranty.

The dealership is one of the most toxic ****ing models pitting sales against service. NOTHING is done in the interest of the customer, and you have to fight them and have lawyers put them on notice to get the dealer to honor their own warranty and manufacturer warranty.


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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Cost me $1026.72 to replace the instrument cluster at the local Chevy dealership. The invoice states:
"Internal failure of cluster verified concern, found code B1370/01 set in cluster. Tested cluster circuits for short to voltage, none found. Diagnosed that the cluster had an internal failure. Replaced cluster and programmed with SPS. Cluster is now working as designed at this time."
 
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