[SIUSoIL]

The Volt uses a heater system that is complex and expensive to replace. It uses a heating system which relies on an electric heater to heat up coolant that is going through the coolant line. The heated coolant is then sent to a pump which then provides heat to the cabin. Without an in-line coolant heater, the system does not work and requires the replacement of the in-line coolant heater (also known as GM part no: 22851153, 22747764, 22788440, 22792167, 22794426)

I have been trying to fix this problem by first going to a local GM dealer, only to find them asking 3800 dollars for replacement of the inline coolant heater and heater pump and the 8 hours of labor it takes to get access to the parts and replace them. Just the in-line coolant heater alone would cost 1700 dollars. I did find a new one on GM part exchange for 1000 dollars. I don't have that much available to spend on repairs so I then found a local mechanic that would be able to use parts I found on Car-parts.com-a used car parts online search service.

That lead me to Green Light Auto in Southern California, where they had the part listed including the correct part number. Only problem is they ripped the part off and the High Voltage wire and connector were missing when I received the part in the mail. The wires cannot be spliced according to a certified GM Volt tech because that could heat up and start an engine bay fire.

So back I went to look for another replacement part, and there are not many used in-line coolant heaters available anymore (even though they are interchangeable through all Gen 1 years). The next place I called still hasn't returned my call, my car-part.com price quote, or any of my emails. All I wanted to know was if the part they list on their website and on car-part.com is actually the GM part number I listed earlier.

So now I'm stuck buying the $1,000 plus tax in-line coolant heater new (can't afford) or just buying the power inverter kit that is on this forum and plugging a space heater into it which all together would cost $500. Which is the best way to go in this situation, and has anyone else dealt with this? Been a Volt owner for over 2 years and it's a 2014 Volt with 111k miles.

 

[Cloudnine]

Are we sure the heater itself has failed. Who did the diagnosis? There are other "no heat" causes. Some are a very simple, free fix.

 

[MikeBCo]

yours will have the power meter display in the dash. Set the heater to max and observe the power draw. Does it spike to 7kW or so initially and then rapidly subside? If so, it is likely not the heater that is bad.

 

[SIUSoIL]

Local GM dealer did the Diagnostic and it was 300 dollars. They had a Volt tech try everything including testing for any power draw, there is none. It says at 0 kw on the dash with full heat on both electric and gas engine. The dealer's mentioned the increased cost on the diagnostic was because it was a certified GM Volt tech and their labor hours were higher then the diagnostic they would charge for my other car that is an Equinox. The code that they pulled is B101D Electronic Control Unit Hardware Failure. Hope that helps, they even called to the next major big city, St. Louis GM Volt tech to verify that there wasn't any other repair that could work. I've been without heat in my car for over a month!

Thanks for your help, everyone!

 

[Slowspeed]

Go on eBay buy a Chinese diesel heater two wires from your battery you have to drill a hole in your floor in the back hatch area too exhaust the pipe turn the remote on when you climb out of bed the remote will activate the heater in your car then go outside and get in a warm car that's what I do and I've set one up for my wife also both of our heaters have quit working but our Chinese diesel heaters work fine

 

[obermd]

Local GM dealer did the Diagnostic and it was 300 dollars. They had a Volt tech try everything including testing for any power draw, there is none. It says at 0 kw on the dash with full heat on both electric and gas engine. The dealer's mentioned the increased cost on the diagnostic was because it was a certified GM Volt tech and their labor hours were higher then the diagnostic they would charge for my other car that is an Equinox. The code that they pulled is B101D Electronic Control Unit Hardware Failure. Hope that helps, they even called to the next major big city, St. Louis GM Volt tech to verify that there wasn't any other repair that could work. I've been without heat in my car for over a month!

Thanks for your help, everyone!

Go find another dealership. They're ripping you off with that "certified Volt" technicians are more expensive crap.

 

[Slowspeed]

Message me if you would like instructions how to locate the hole you'll have to go through three layers the top floppy protection the metal compartment wear the battery sits and then through the very bottom mud flap under the car

 

[SIUSoIL]

Message me if you would like instructions how to locate the hole you'll have to go through three layers the top floppy protection the metal compartment wear the battery sits and then through the very bottom mud flap under the car

That's a very interesting idea! I will message you about the details and instructions. If it's something me or my mechanic can do and it's safe and affordable then I'm all for it!

 

[marcusm]

What about something like this?

12V Automotive Portable Car Heater - Low Watt Space Heater For RV

With our 12V Car Heater, you can heat your car in under 30 seconds without turning on the engine! Our 12V Car Heater not only keeps your car warm and cosy during the chilly winter months, but it also defrosts your windshield and glass when they have ice on them! You'll have a better, clearer...

verniershop.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lug_Nut]

120 watts to "..heat your car in under 30 seconds..."? So 0.12kW, for 1/120th of an hour, or a total of 0.001 kWh is all that is needed?
Who needs a 7kW heat draw with a factory heat system when 0.12kW is sufficient?
I have a couple of solar powered calculators with cracked displays. I can salvage the cells and never have to plug in the car again!

I understand your situation. I had my own 2014 electric heat coolant pump (not heater, just the pump) unit fail. I had an extended warranty that covered the replacement, but the warranty cost more than the two repairs it covered. That warranty has expired now. If my heater fails again I'd be more than annoyed, but here's what I'd do:
Bypass the hood latch electrical switch to keep the ICE running. Use the waste heat from the engine coolant.

 

[TripleAech]

Assuming it's the heater, and not the 3 way valve, you get heat when the engine is running. The most economical work around is to run in hold mode until you get enough heat, then go back to electric. When it gets cold again, switch back to hold. Yeah, you're burning gas, but the car is already designed to do that and the fuel cost is far less than your repair.

 

[MikeBCo]

Yep ^

Just run the engine for heat.

 

[SIUSoIL]

I bought this part new Amazon.com: GM 13597899 Pump, Heater Coolant : Automotive
GM 13597899
I can have my mechanic install that, and in theory I should have heat on the engine side even if can't find a used in line coolant heater replacement. My non-working in-line coolant heater will still be on the car but when I use the engine it will heat the coolant and the new pump should then move that heated coolant towards the blower and then I would have cabin heat! The shop is closed today but I'm going over this plan on Monday.

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone! It's been cold here in southern Illinois, so I need to figure this out quickly! I'll let you all know how it all pans out.

 

[Cloudnine]

B101D Electronic Control Unit Hardware Failure

That does not sound like a heater to me. Sounds like an ECU.

 

[Steverino]

moved to Problems...

 

[SIUSoIL]

That does not sound like a heater to me. Sounds like an ECU.

You are right, all I know is that I request the codes from the diagnostic, and they gave me a print up with this listed on it. For all I know they may have a different code, but according to the invoice they said the pump and in-line coolant heater needed to be replaced. It doesn't draw any power on either gas or electric when I try to use the heater, so that may be the same conclusion the dealer came to and just decided to quote me a full replacement. My own trustworthy mechanic also confirmed agreed with what the dealer listed in the invoice. There may be some other component that is the cause of the heater failure, but I haven't heard anything regarding that so far. The fact that they list this repair as 8 hours leads me to believe its a design problem with the Volts, a heater replacement shouldn't take that long and cost this much!

 

[Ryan IL]

B101D DTC

 

[SIUSoIL]

B101D DTC

Thank you for posting the TSB on this, I wish it was under warranty but it's long past that. Also I see the recommended part number is the one I have been using to try to locate a used Coolant Heater Module Part Number 2285113. This supersedes the older part numbers I listed in the original post. I just can't locate one that is affordable, new the cheapest is $1,000.

Thank you again for sharing this information, it's some great confirmation of this problem with heaters on the Volts.

 

[Ryan IL]

My 2015 only heats intermittently while displaying "heat on". It's fantastic when it works. Hoping that updating the module programming will fix it.

 

[SIUSoIL]

Looks like Gen 2 Volts ended up having the same problem but with a different coolant heater. This seems to be the same issue but with the Gen 2 Volts version of the in-line coolant heater.

www.gm-volt.com/threads/my-2016-cabin-heater-unit-84553864.343715/

Looking like GM is letting this problem happen to owners of both Gens of Volts.