[bnaccs]

Hi all-

My first problem with my 2014 Volt. It just turned 30,000 and I charge on 240. Check engine light turned on after unplugging it.
Any ideas of what this code from Onstar means, or has anyone else experienced this code?


P1F58 VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROL
The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Onboard Charging System which manages your vehicles battery pack charge level.

The car is performing fine and is charging.

 

[NM Volt]

I'm far from an expert at anything (don't know how I made it to retirement) but from reading stuff on here... try unhooking the battery in the trunk for a minute, then hooking it up again. This is while it is not charging or running.
Other than that you probably gotta go to the dealer.

 

[mpmoore1979]

DTC P1F58Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve Position Sensor Performance - Unexpected Position Change Detected
Possible coolant control valve issue, should be covered under your emissions warranty but you need to check with your local dealership.
LABOR CODE: 5020630
WARRANTY CODE: Coverage Code: Emission E

 

[bnaccs]

The light is now out. Weird!

 

[Prohidium]

I find that if I unplug the cable when just finished a preconditioning but the 240v charge is still topping off the battery, it will trigger a check engine light. It has happened to me probably a dozen times over the course of 4.5 years. The light will go out on its own after a few charge cycles but I now just use my ODBC unit to turn it off when it happens. The car performs normally. I also think if you pull the plug too quickly, it has not had proper time to sense the low voltage pilot signal loss and it thinks the 240 dropped first. That is my guess as to why disconnecting the plug may throw a,check engine light.

 

[Crimson Volt]

My 2013 check engine light comes on whenever I charge at my local 220V at 13amp. It will eventually goes off, at least mine does.

 

[Genecpu]

The EVSE handle has a circuit in handle, so that when one presses the handle to remove it, this signals the car and the EVSE charger to turn off the main power. Turning off the high voltage so the connectors are not removed with current going to through them when removed causing an arc. So if the charging handle is removed too quickly the high voltage could be removed prior to the car recognizing the handle depress.

 

[lexcyn]

I find that if I unplug the cable when just finished a preconditioning but the 240v charge is still topping off the battery, it will trigger a check engine light. It has happened to me probably a dozen times over the course of 4.5 years. The light will go out on its own after a few charge cycles but I now just use my ODBC unit to turn it off when it happens. The car performs normally. I also think if you pull the plug too quickly, it has not had proper time to sense the low voltage pilot signal loss and it thinks the 240 dropped first. That is my guess as to why disconnecting the plug may throw a,check engine light.

That is good to know. The other day I was preconditioning it and unplugged before it was complete and got a CEL. It went out after the next full charge but I was wondering what that was, thanks for the info!

 

[Dante]

I tend to precondition most mornings, especially when it's hot or cold, and now I see this happening. After a couple drive cycles and full recharge, the CEL goes off. I guess I'll try holding the L2 EVSE trigger longer before unplugging to see if it stops this annoying behavior. My inspection is due in July so I can't just reset it all the time.

 

[wramzoic]

I occasionally get a check engine light - I pulled the codes the other day P1F56, P1F58

https://www.autocodes.com/p1f56_chevrolet.html -
P1F56 CHEVROLET - Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve Stuck

Its intermittent and clears within a day or two, and after reading this thread could be related to interrupting the preconditioning ?

I wanted to rule out having and actual "Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve Stuck"

2014 Volt otherwise operating perfectly

thanks!

 

[wramzoic]

The last few weeks the check engine light is always on - I'm going to pull the codes again - assuming its the same codes:

https://www.autocodes.com/p1f56_chevrolet.html -
P1F56 CHEVROLET - Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve Stuck

Would this (coolant valve) be covered under the 8 year battery warranty ?
(I've been getting 36-38 miles off full charge - so have not prioritized getting it checked)

thanks

 

[BeachVolt]

Here's a link to another thread where I have posted on this issue. Long story short, the CEL has been coming on with the P1F58 code. Dealership says that a battery pack valve needs to be replaced. $400 total cost for repair...

https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthrea...to-coolant-Flow-valve-seeping&highlight=P1F58

 

[wramzoic]

Thanks for the crosspost - my CEL is on 90% time with the same P1F56 and P1F58 codes - I tried calling into my dealership to check if its covered under warranty (2014 Volt, < 60K miles) - got passed off to voicemail - no response
I am seeing 39 miles off full charge - so its not affecting range or performance, but want to get it resolved under warranty if at all possible

thanks again - will call them again now

 

[BeachVolt]

Took it to the dealership today. The CEL was not lit when I arrived (of course) but they were able to read a fault code history, and found code P1F58 (the code I found using OnStar) and PiF56. I believe P1F58 is for the Control Valve Sensor, and P1f56 is for the Control Valve itself. They said the repair involves replacing the valve, part 22987493. A $50 part online, but they quoted me $691,53 for parts and labor. OUCH. I'm ASSUMING the the labor includes both installation of the new parts, and some type of re-learn or configuration of the new part (very common on many electronic parts in today's cars) that requires connectivity to the GM OEM software. I did not have time to wait the 4 and a half hours they said the repair would take, so I'm dropping it off on Friday. I'll keep ya posted.

 

[wramzoic]

@beachvolt,
looking fwd to the update - part number replaced $50 part, labor $600+ (90% labor cost ?)
I'd like to see the GM mechanic link for replacing the part - it must be difficult to get to and replace ?

Still getting the CEL most of the time, but 38 miles/charge and no performance issues

thanks

 

[ciscovet]

Curious if this would have been covered under one of those extended warranted. I know people say they are a waste of money but it looks like any repair done to the car seems to be fairly expensive.

 

[BeachVolt]

The repair was completed yesterday. The part is located in the far back left area under the hood, behind two wiring harness connections. It appears to be a real pain to access. I assume that part of the high repair cost was for the part itself, labor costs, and to use their software diagnostic tool to re-learn the part, that is make sure the VIC Control Module that controls the valve learns the valve positions. Reading the details of the fault codes explanations, P1F56 and PiF58, the VIC Control Module communicates with that valve every start-up to learn its position. It is when that control module has issues doing this, that it throws one or both of those fault codes.

The service rep said that the repair would take about 4.5 hours to complete. I dropped the Volt off for a 7:00 a.m. appointment, and got a call about 11:00 a.m. saying it was finished and ready to pick-up, so I assume that time frame is about right.

And yeah, that repair cost is a little high, but I bough the car new, and up to this point at 106K miles, my maintenance/repair costs have been far less than any other car I have owned, so I'm still far ahead in the game in total $$ spent compared to a conentional ICE car, in $$, time, and associated stress with dealing with that stuff. I love electric cars! I'm starting to consider at Tesla Model 3 or Model Y for my next purchase, when my Volt gets older and wears out

And yes, if you are getting a CEL and those fault codes, I would recommend having the repair done, especially if the CEL is coming on quite a bit. I ignored it when it first came on for about a day, then turn off, and would not return for a month, but then it would come on and off several times a week. The car's control modules are not lying to you. There is an issue, and it needs to be fixed.

 

[evfix]

My 2014 volt had error code P1F58 also. I purchased part 22987493 online for $40. I didn't want to pay the dealer $700, so I took on the repair myself. The part is in the back left corner next to the firewall. You can see the part with a flashlight. I took off the plastic engine cover. You just take out the 2 star bolts on the front and disconnect the 2 air hoses on the left and it pulls right out. Next remove the air hose connected to the throttle body. After that remove the throttle body by removing the 4 star bolts and disconnecting the electrical connector by pressing on the tab on the bottom and pulling out. Put a paper towel in the tube the throttle body was connected to. You don't want any junk or parts falling down there. You now have access to the control valve. take off the 2 nuts that bolt the control valve in place. Next you remove the 4 hoses. The top hose and right hose have pins that hold them in place. Pull the pins out (I used a flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers). Be careful not to lose the pins! After the pins are out pry off the hose using a large flat head screwdriver. The 2 front hoses have clamps. Pinch the clamps and pull them back on the hose past the tube on the valve. I had to pry the hoses off, they have a very tight fit. You lose a little coolant which can be replaced later. Next pull off the electrical connector by pressing the bottom tab and pulling back. The part will now come out. Shove the new part in and connect all the hoses and electrical. make sure to put the pins back in on the top and right hose. Bolt the bracket to the car. Put the throttle body back on and the engine cover. I had to start the car twice before the check engine light would go off. At least that annoying light is off now! This was a painful process because there is so little room to work with. It took me about 3 hours to complete the job.

 

[SkiAustin]

The repair was completed yesterday. The part is located ....

Thanks for the Cross post. I might not have found this thread otherwise. Between your post and the following I think I understand possible causes.

My 2014 volt had error code P1F58 also. I purchased part .....

Thanks for your detailed repair procedure. I haven't looked at the car yet, but it sounds like this is doable.

My question is: Is this a real HW problem or is the ECU looking for a certain feedback signal on the control circuit (or position sending potentiometer) when it adjusts the valve and the aged valve is just responding slowly ... possibly because of some interaction from the preconditioning and the EVSE being pulled quickly.

This referenced page <https://www.autocodes.com/p1f56_chevrolet.html> gives the detail that the ECU "... can drive the valve motor in a forward or reverse direction. One end position of the range is the Radiator connection, the middle position is the bypass position and the other end is the chiller position." This means the valve has 3 positions and the ECU must vary or pulse the signal to get the valve in the desired position.

And, in the other thread, Tim provided valve position feedback info (though I don't know the source of his "References") ...

...

References below
...

P1F58 Meaning
The valve provides position feedback to the hybrid/EV powertrain control module 2 based on a potentiometer in the valve. The hybrid/EV powertrain control module 2 uses this feedback to monitor the valve position. Different valve positions correspond to different resistance values. The hybrid/EV powertrain control module 2 determines the resistance values corresponding to the end stop positions of the valve by moving the valve to an end-stop and back to its original position when the vehicle is first turned on. This is referred to as the hybrid/EV powertrain control module 2 "diagnostic learn" the valve. This provides a valve shaft breakage test and allows the hybrid/EV powertrain control module 2 to "learn" the position feedback value that corresponds to that end-stop. The end-stop that is used at each Vehicle in Service Mode alternates between each end, the radiator end one time, the chiller end the next time, the radiator end the next time, etc.
....

https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?331529-Check-Eng-Light-CEL-P1F58-When-is-a-CEL-a-BIG-deal

The link at the end of Tim's post references back to this current thread.

Clearly multiple people are seeing this problem; But it is intermittent. I do precondition somewhat often so I can see how that might correlate with what others are experiencing.

@evfix : What was the condition of the valve (and position sender) that you removed from the vehicle?

Thanks ya all!
{I've got 3 vehicles and 2 boats I'm maintaining so I'm not ready to jump into another repair if I don't need to.}

 

[SkiAustin]

Correct valve to fix DTC's P1F58 and P0CE5

My 2014 volt had error code P1F58 also. I purchased part 22987493 online for $40. I didn't want to pay the dealer $700, so I took on the repair myself. The part is in the back left corner next to the firewall. You can see the part with a flashlight. ...
It took me about 3 hours to complete the job.

@evfix : Did you find a diagram somewhere that told you where the valve is located? Other info I could reference?

Since posting last week, my CEL is always on now. I'm showing the P1F58 and P0CE5 DTC's. I'll attach a screen capture of the descriptions below.
I also have a call into a dealer to investigate if I can get this work covered under the Voltec warranty. It's worth a shot. Of course they want to charge me a $150 diagnostic fee, but I gave them the DTC's and part number so they're at least looking into it.

My conundrum is that several web sites list the 22987493 part as only fitting the 2011 to 2013 model years. I think this is wrong. I'd like some FEEDBACK here as to your experiences please!

I also wonder: I have a P1F58 and not the P1F56. Does that mean that the valve is OK and only the position sender is bad? (It depends how the firmware is written I guess).


{Edit}: This site shows that the part DOES fit the 2015, which is the conclusion I came to.
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/chevrolet-valve~22987493.html


Here are the details about the two parts, but this doesn't prove anything. Is there a different part for the 2014 and 2015's?

2011 -> 2013 Control Valve - GM (22987493):
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-control-valve-22987493
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-Valve-Part-22987493/dp/B00TABNJVW

2011- 2015 Shut-Off Valve - GM (22987494) -> I think this is for the cabin heating/cooling circuit.
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-shut-off-valve-22987494/

The second coolant hose route diagram shows a valve (#7) similar to (22987493) but lists the (22987494) valve which I think is wrong (the referenced part #). Compare this second diagram with the one on the page for the (22987494) part - this appears to be a completely different cooling circuit!!
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2015/chevrolet/volt/base-trim/1-4l-l4-electric-gas-engine/cooling-system-cat/radiator-and-components-scat/?part_number=22987494

Again, the valve in this hose set diagram appears to be (22987493)*!
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-engine-coolant-hose-23116557/

In fact this thread shows that the 22987494 valve is for the cabin heat !!!
https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?332647-How-to-replace-2-way-coolant-valve-PN-22987494

I've attached the screen capture of the related DTC codes.