[baragona]

Like many others, I had the infamous clicking noise on my 2014 when I let off the accelerator and started braking. My dealer tightened the axle bolts to specs and the problem went away. They fixed this under warranty.

But now, after only 6 months the clicking noise is back, and unfortunately, the Volt is now out of warranty.

Did anyone else who had their axle bolts tightened also have the clicking problem return after a period of time?

Has anyone had this issue fixed out of warranty? What kind of cost are we talking about?

Thanks

 

[CCIE]

To confirm, your 5/100 Powertrain Warranty is exhausted? Because it's covered under that.


Tightening the axle is a temporary measure. Really the washer between the axle and wheel hub needs to be changed. But, the dealer won't know that, so they'll want to change the whole axle. Probably cost somewhere in the $500-750 range. Or you could just ignore it, like I did for a year.

 

[mpmoore1979]

You need new axle nuts and they should use a little thread locker to keep this from happening again. The nuts should cost around $50 and so should the labor. This is a easy repair, not much labor. Just remove the front wheels and remove the nuts, reverse to install.

 

[AZ EV Driver]

The OP should take his Volt to mpmoore1979 for service. Correct me if I am wrong, I think he is at Auto Nation in Peoria, AZ.

VIN # B0985

 

[CCIE]

You need new axle nuts and they should use a little thread locker to keep this from happening again. The nuts should cost around $50 and so should the labor. This is a easy repair, not much labor. Just remove the front wheels and remove the nuts, reverse to install.

It's the tension washer between the axle and hub. The nuts are usually changed at the same time, but the washer is the main cause. Full thread with details linked below.


http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?197914-Click-or-Pop-noise-from-front-on-Accel-or-Decel


My dealer tried torqueing and then changing the axle nut before they finally gave up and changed the whole axle. Covered under 5/100 warranty. Just changing the washer would have fixed it. But, since GM was paying, I didn't car about the overkill.

 

[BAZINGA]

It could also be the brake pad caliper guide pins as it was in my 2013. Mine needed to be cleaned, lubed and reinstalled. Dealer Tech said they corrode due lack of use. Can you make it click by rocking the car back and forth when parked in your garage?

Google "clicking brake pad guide pins". It's a common problem exasperated by lack of use.

 

[somms]

It could also be the brake pad caliper guide pins as it was in my 2013. Mine needed to be cleaned, lubed and reinstalled. Dealer Tech said they corrode due lack of use. Can you make it click by rocking the car back and forth when parked in your garage?

Had to replace rusted out rear rotors at 50k miles

I had similar but it was a consistent squeak noise. Dropped an entire $20 on replacement aftermarket brake hardware for all 4 wheels rather than just reusing old/worn parts. Brand I used had something or other 'quite-glide' using a combination of stainless steel construction, PTFE coating and vulcanized rubber that isn't found on the GM OEM hardware. Squeak has thus far not returned on my Gen1!

 

[realdb2]

I recently had a similar issue and in my case it was NOT the axle bolts. In my case it was the front bake calipers that needed to be cleaned and lubricated. This was not covered under the powertrain warranty but it did fix the issue.

 

[llninja]

I had my nuts torqued by Paula, my service advisor, about a year and a half ago and no clicking noises since. But just yesterday I started to have a groaning/whining noise. Current consensus in another thread is it might be a wheel bearing... we'll see.

 

[DonC]

It could be due to another cause which wouldn't be covered by a warranty. However, if it's the same problem, then regardless of whether it would be covered by another warranty, it would be covered by the basic bumper to bumper warranty. This follows because the fix -- per protocol -- is to replace both nuts. Assuming the problem has returned, the warranty would apply since the repair is necessitated by a faulty initial warranty repair.

It's the tension washer between the axle and hub. The nuts are usually changed at the same time, but the washer is the main cause. Full thread with details linked below.

+1.

 

[Anansi22]

It's the tension washer between the axle and hub. The nuts are usually changed at the same time, but the washer is the main cause. Full thread with details linked below.


Click or Pop noise from front on Accel or Decel


My dealer tried torqueing and then changing the axle nut before they finally gave up and changed the whole axle. Covered under 5/100 warranty. Just changing the washer would have fixed it. But, since GM was paying, I didn't car about the overkill.

New part issued by GM. Old par defective
Part number 11611687.
Old thread, yes.. my car still runs. I’ll drive till wheels fall off

 

[imanjunk1963]

FYI I had the washer and axle nut changed on my 2014 some 4 years ago on driver side. The passenger side occassinally needs retorqueing only say once a year or so and have not had to change the washer. Just my experience.

 

[Anansi22]

FYI I had the washer and axle nut changed on my 2014 some 4 years ago on driver side. The passenger side occassinally needs retorqueing only say once a year or so and have not had to change the washer. Just my experience.

The new part negates the need for periodic tightening. The procedure is to torque it to a specific value, loosen then re-torque to higher value. Will not come loose. I didn't record the torque values but I'm sure you can find it on the net

 

[imanjunk1963]

The new part negates the need for periodic tightening. The procedure is to torque it to a specific value, loosen then re-torque to higher value. Will not come loose. I didn't record the torque values but I'm sure you can find it on the net

I hope to have a new EV only car by the time that passenger side fully gives out...if it does. Meanwhile I retorque it as needed. When you say new part you mean the 36mm nut vs the 32mm nut? as I recall changed. The bad is you can't torque the new nut without taking off the wheel now! If you meant the 36mm nut is the new part and not the washer then maybe I should use that nut now on the passenger side while the washer is not an issue considering I can retorque the existing nut ok though as I said comes loose sometimes.

 

[Anansi22]

I hope to have a new EV only car by the time that passenger side fully gives out...if it does. Meanwhile I retorque it as needed. When you say new part you mean the 36mm nut vs the 32mm nut? as I recall changed. The bad is you can't torque the new nut without taking off the wheel now! If you meant the 36mm nut is the new part and not the washer then maybe I should use that nut now on the passenger side while the washer is not an issue considering I can retorque the existing nut ok though as I said comes loose sometimes.

I believe it is the 36mm, the revised part. Check it using that part number on gmpartsstore.com. I am quite possibly wrong about the nut size. Did a good bit of research on it after paying to change CV joints and struts based on an idiotic mechanic who doesn't work with the cars. I've learned that many lack the patience to properly diagnose issues. They are forced into coming up with quick solution to keep the money flowing.