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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone,
So I am new to the forum although I have been browsing it for a years to learn a bit about my 2014 Volt. A few days ago I go to start the Volt, car turns on, put it in gear and it won’t go anywhere. I take a closer look at the screen and I am greeted by Alarms:
  • Service Theft Deterrent System
  • Service Power Steering, Drive With Care
  • Yellow alarm of car with lock
  • Yellow Brake light with a wrench
I’ve been researching here and online, tried everything to no avail. Found another thread here that recommends a possibly bad connection (107). I looked at two wire harness under the hood but they looked fine. The thread also recommended looking at a ground (103) connection but I am unable to reach since it sits under a large module under the hood.
I called my local Chevy dealer, spoke a tech who asked me to put the key in the little compartment n the dashboard. Didn’t work. He then asked me to disconnect the battery negative, did that. Alarm cleared for less than a minute where I was able to drive the car then the alarms came back up and car won’t move again.
Additionally I replaced the 12V battery per the recommendations here to no avail. Also replaced the battery on the key. Same result.
I finally used an OBD meter and got a P1E00 code, which after research i found out it’s a generic alarm which should come up in conjunction with another alarm which is not in my case!

I also tested the two fuses under the hood for the power steering circuit per the Technical Service Bulletin, both are fine and have a 12V feed.
Before I take the car to the dealership, I wanted to check here. I would appreciate all the help.
Thanks
 

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Is your green "Ready" indicator light on? Lower left of driver screen, with the car symbol. I suspect not as your car doesn't move. (not visable in your pics) If you are only getting P1E00, its likely not serious. Those messages are consistent with low 12V, perhaps check/clean those connections, or your new AGM could be faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I will Have to check that and report back. That would be some luck if the new battery is shot!! Any idea what the voltages should be when car is off and when running? NormalLy car batteries are usually 12.6V when off and between 13-14V when running. Does this apply to the Volt?
 

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The Gen 1 Volt should be between 13-14.5V when it is running. I would expect between 12-13V when off but have not checked.
 

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This chart is a good rule of thumb for battery voltages:

171273
 

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When running you can see up to 15.0 volts - the service manual showed several charging voltage levels

I check mine after turning off car and before opening the door
you can cycle the parking brake to put on a load if you want.

When mine was 11.99v in summer - I replaced the battery ( was over 6 years old )
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you everyone for the help. I checked the car ready light, it shows green. Surprise surprise.
The new battery reads like 12.4V when car is turned off, when I run the car it reads 12.2V. It's possible that the new battery is defective of course but I am starting to think it's a different issue.
I understand the Volt doesn't have an alternator, but it must use other means to charge the battery while running. I am starting to think this system is defective. there is a module in the trunk a few feet away from the battery, is that what charges the battery? if so how do i test it? Thanks again for all the comments.
 

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i would be checking your 12v inverter that powers your battery when the car is turned on
gen2 it sits beside the battery, see what the voltage is there, if its different then the battery ,when car is turned on ,higher than battery then its between the inverter and battey, if its the same voltage i would suspect inverter or controls to inverter
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you, I believe my car is a generation 1? it's 2014. I see it in the trunk by the battery with one connection coming into it from the battery positive lead. Once it stops raining here, i'll take a look and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FYI. This is the thread I am referring to in the original post. Post #27, the gentleman mentions to check the 107 connection and 103 ground. I believe the 103 ground in my car is located under the fuse block and another electric module (not sure, believe battery charger? has a cover with two torx screws)
at any rate, although i am unable to get to that ground, i was able to take a picture of it. circled in red in the picture. Could this be the cause of the issue?
 

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would not hurt to clean it , just make sure car is off and pull the cable off of battery before messing with grounds
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Supchrgamx- problem is it's very difficult to get it without removing the Power Inverter Module
 

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how handy are you
first i would see what coming out of the inverter, mine has a positive and negative terminal on it
if your getting 13 or higher voltage out of inverter with the car turned on chances are that the inverter is working
then i would look at that connection
take a booster cable or some thing and go from the negative post on the battery to the negative post on the inverter
if your voltage on the battery now matches the voltage on the inverter its going to be that ground connection
grounds usually are not fussy where they terminate, look around for another ground point and run a new wire from inverter to that ground you can get to
hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Supchrgamx- Are you talking about the PIM under the hood? It has 7 or 8 connections. A couple of them seem to be hydraulic connections, another couple are 3 phase sets going to the two motors on the left if it.The rest of them I am not so sure about which is what. They are certainly electrical connections, but i am not sure where I would be testing for 13V or higher. Can you please send a picture if possible?

If you are talking about the module in the trunk close to the battery, that has only one wire coming from the battery positive
 

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If you are talking about the module in the trunk close to the battery, that has only one wire coming from the battery positive
that would be the module your looking for, just measure from that single post to the case of module
measure with car off, should be 12.5v ,turn car on, should be 13.8v or something
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wouldn’t the voltage be same as measuring across the battery? The wire from the battery to that module is very short.
I measured anyway at the inverter module, From positive to Module casing Is 12.28V with car off. With car running it’s 12V
 

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you are right, but it tells me that there is not a bad connection between inverter and battery
it tells me u have a problem with inverter or the power supply feeding it from hv battery
maybe fuse or relay in hv battery box, connection into hv battery box or inverter or combo of above, as well as software preventing it
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I finally decided to take the car to my local chevy dealer. will let you guys know what happens.
 

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In my opinion, it is just our imagination. I am from 972 Area Code - Texas - Area Phone Codes and I have never seen any signs in my life. I cannot say if it is good or bad, but I am a realistic person and do not believe all this trash. I believe people just try to find some justification for their actions by finding non-existing signs. It is a result of stress.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
An update for everyone. Dropped the car at my local chevy dealer on Thursday however due to unavailable Volt techs, it wasn't looked at until this morning. I received a call a short while ago and was told that they did the diagnostics and couldn't figure out what's wrong with the car. Additionally they think they need 4 hours of diagnostics and even then they are not sure they can figure out what's wrong with the car!!! Needless to say they want to charge me for the diagnostics at $135/hour! They said they already worked on it for another hour but they won't charge me for it.

I spoke to the mechanic and he said there seems to be a communication problem to the ECM module and that he is unable to communicate with it. However he has to rule a number of issues out before he can deem the ECM defective. He tried to reprogram the "theft deterrent system" alarm and he was unable to due to an error communicating with the ECM. I told them to leave the car alone for now.
I must say I am very bummed about this, 4 hours of DT work would cost almost $600 and that's not to fix the car!!!
I thought they were supposed to figure out what's wrong with the car within the hour. Would appreciate any help at this point. Thank you
 
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