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Hi all,

New account on the forum but have been lurking for the last year and a half as I researched and eventually last year bought a 2013 of my very own. Thanks for all the helpful and informative posts on here.

Now I have seen all the whining noise posts and read up about it, did notice it was more a 2011 and 2012 issue but I have recently just started having it on my 2013. I just passed 46k miles. I know you are probably thinking not another of these posts again but here is where my issue is unique, I unfortunately due to the military moving me, dont have a volt certified dealer in town. The nearest dealer is an hour and a half drive away. I called and talked with chevy customer service to see what my options are and while they tried to be helpful, they kind of left me with a bad feeling about what is going to happen. They told me to either take it to my local chevy dealer and have them see if they can diagnose it, but this would be out of pocket even if its under warranty, or they want me to pay out of pocket to tow it to the dealer 1.5 hours away. The rep I spoke to initially tried to see if they could get a volt tech to come to my local dealer for the diagnoses but he was overruled by his supervisor who said they couldnt do that and mentioned something about taking it to a non voltec authorized dealer voiding my warranty.

I explained to the supervisor my problem, situation and how my symptoms lined up with the info I had seen about the bearing problem and she said bearings are not covered by the voltec drive train warranty and I may be paying for all repairs out of pocket. This seemed contrary to what I have read on here and concerned me.

The phone conversation ended with the chevy rep recommending I take it to my local dealer tomorrow and seeing what they said. Just wondering if yall had any advice on what my best course of action would be and if any of you have dealt with similar out of area service issues. I have read many stories of chevy customer service being extremely helpful with volt owners and guess I maybe got my hopes up so left a little disappointed and concerned with what happened. If I am just being ridiculous please let me know, we all need a sanity check sometimes.

Thank you all in advance for the replies.
 

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Ironically enough, my 2013 started whining today, I think from the right side. I couldn't tell for sure whether it was the front or rear wheel and when I got home, I checked both tires to see if there was anything there to cause that noise. I seems to start as a growl at low speeds when becomes a whine at higher speeds. I was convinced it was something with the tires (as if someone out studded tires on my car), but now you've got me worried about something mechanical. I'll get my daughter behind the wheel with me hanging my head out the passenger window to see if I can isolate where the noise is coming from, then decide from there whether a trip to the dealership is needed. Paula hasn't seen me in awhile anyway... she most certainly misses me.
 

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Just drive it the hour and a half to the certified Volt tech and get a loaner car. Should be 100% warranty and free loaner car. Out of 100,000 generation 1 Volts at least 10-20% have had the outboard motor bearing replaced on warranty. They know what they are doing, you just need the certified tech to work on it.
 

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Sounds like a failing stator motor bearing. Not so uncommon problem that has been reported on here.

See http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?81970-My-Volt-s-quot-saw-quot-regen-noise-Stator-bearing-failure&p=3489954#post3489954 for a copy of my work order. My dealership covered it under the powertrain warranty (so they said anyways....my Volt was out of the b2b warranty period).
My whining happens at all speeds, no matter whether I'm in regen or accelerating. It's a lower toned growl, quite different from the noise in one of the videos in the thread given. So I don't think mine is the same. It sounds like I put on a set of nobby tires and a lift kit on a 4x4 (here we go, wishing for a 4x4 Voltec again). I'll see if I can record a video of the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like a failing stator motor bearing. Not so uncommon problem that has been reported on here.

See for a copy of my work order. My dealership covered it under the powertrain warranty (so they said anyways....my Volt was out of the b2b warranty period).

oh btw, have fun at Goodbuddy. Hopefully your stay isn't that long there! What a hole!
Only a 4 year stay at goodbuddy lol.....

Im assuming this is something a volt tech will have to do then, im hoping I can convince the volt dealer to have the volt tech come out to my local chevy dealer. Is the bearing something I should avoid driving on until its fixed? Or is it just the annoying noise? My b2b is def expired so hoping the dealer cooperates and covers it under the voltec warranty, the service rep on the phone kept trying to dance around it and insisting bearings are not part of the powertrain so probably wouldnt be covered...
 

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The bearing cage noise might be described as a whine but it's very distinctive. There are some posts with sound files on the forum. Once you hear it you won't have any doubts as to whether this is your issue. This is a good example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2ulyuyBVE8 This is not the best example but may help: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread...ring-Take-a-listen...&highlight=noise+bearing

From your description I'm thinking this is not the problem.

Just drive it the hour and a half to the certified Volt tech and get a loaner car. Should be 100% warranty and free loaner car. Out of 100,000 generation 1 Volts at least 10-20% have had the outboard motor bearing replaced on warranty. They know what they are doing, you just need the certified tech to work on it.
While it may seem that every other generation one Volt had the problem, it was probably not even 1%. Quite possible this dealer has never seen it. Hard to say without knowing how many Volts it services.
 

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The bearing cage noise might be described as a whine but it's very distinctive. There are some posts with sound files on the forum. Once you hear it you won't have any doubts as to whether this is your issue. This is not the best example but this is one example of the sound: http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread...ring-Take-a-listen...&highlight=noise+bearing

From your description I'm thinking this is not the problem.

While it may seem that every other generation one Volt had the problem, it was probably not even 1%. Quite possible this dealer has never seen it. Hard to say without knowing how many Volts it services.
Thanks DonC, that's the exact noise I'm hearing.

My volt is NOT making this noise http://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread...-Stator-bearing-failure&p=1128514#post1128514
 

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The bearing cage noise might be described as a whine but it's very distinctive. There are some posts with sound files on the forum. Once you hear it you won't have any doubts as to whether this is your issue. This is a good example: This is not the best example but may help:

From your description I'm thinking this is not the problem.

While it may seem that every other generation one Volt had the problem, it was probably not even 1%. Quite possible this dealer has never seen it. Hard to say without knowing how many Volts it services.
Thats the exact noise I am getting as well. My major concern is is it ok to drive 1.5 hours with the bearing like that? Or would that do more damage?
 

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A whine or growl noise could also be a wheel bearing. To check for a wheel bearing/tire noise, drive on a smooth surface road at the speed the sound level is the highest. With no other cars around you, turn slightly to the left then the right. If you turn to the left and the noise gets louder, then the right wheel bearing/tire is the issue. Same, if you turn to the right and the noise gets louder, the left bearing/tire is the issue. Doing this you are putting more stress and weight on one of the bearings/tires and this will cause the noise level to change if the bearing/tire is the issue. If the noise does not change, then you may have a different issue such as the trans bearing.
 

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Just as another data point, I had my motor bearing replaced on my 2013 about a year ago. It was fully covered, including loaner car, under the Voltec warranty. It took about a week to fix.

When the rep told you that the bearing is not covered, they might have been assuming a different bearing, such as a wheel bearing. The motor bearing is definitely covered under the Voltec warranty.

By the way, regarding the idea of driving 1.5 hours with a howling motor bearing, I would be worried that would do more damage to other nearby parts. Not sure if that is a founded worry or not, but worth considering. A tow truck fee for that distance would be astronomical. But again, that may also be covered. Or maybe you could use a U-Haul dolly and a borrowed truck.
 

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A whine or growl noise could also be a wheel bearing. To check for a wheel bearing/tire noise, drive on a smooth surface road at the speed the sound level is the highest. With no other cars around you, turn slightly to the left then the right. If you turn to the left and the noise gets louder, then the right wheel bearing/tire is the issue. Same, if you turn to the right and the noise gets louder, the left bearing/tire is the issue. Doing this you are putting more stress and weight on one of the bearings/tires and this will cause the noise level to change if the bearing/tire is the issue. If the noise does not change, then you may have a different issue such as the trans bearing.
Thanks. I'll try this out. I have a perfect spot to test this near me. The most Southern part of this parking lot is devoid of cars until school starts in a couple of weeks https://www.google.com/maps/dir///@40.0961002,-88.2409751,814m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1
 

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I discovered the noise in my 2011 after driving 1,300 miles from Michigan to Florida. So odds are good the bearing cage was falling apart many miles before arriving and driving stop and go around the destination. Also several cases had already been reported and discussed right here on this forum. I showed the thread, the video, and the pictures of the disassembled motor cover and bearing to the service writer at the initial appointment. Pretty much sealed the case. GM gave us a loaner car to get back to Michigan and shipped the Volt back after completing the work. All paid by GM warranty.
 

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Thats the exact noise I am getting as well. My major concern is is it ok to drive 1.5 hours with the bearing like that? Or would that do more damage?
It's not a problem. The cage that holds the bearings cracks and the bearings all end up together rather than being spaced apart. That's what makes the noise. The cage will have to be replaced so if it cracks a little more that hardly matters. If you're worried about it, call GM and get it to confirm for you.

Note that the dealer isn't likely to have the part so you will likely need a loaner or something. Would probably be best to talk to the dealer before you show up. No doubt it won't agree what the problem is without seeing the car -- and it shouldn't -- but you can do a hypothetical. IOW "if it is the bearing cage then X, Y, Z".
 

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Ironically enough, my 2013 started whining today, I think from the right side. I couldn't tell for sure whether it was the front or rear wheel and when I got home, I checked both tires to see if there was anything there to cause that noise. I seems to start as a growl at low speeds when becomes a whine at higher speeds. I was convinced it was something with the tires (as if someone out studded tires on my car), but now you've got me worried about something mechanical. I'll get my daughter behind the wheel with me hanging my head out the passenger window to see if I can isolate where the noise is coming from, then decide from there whether a trip to the dealership is needed. Paula hasn't seen me in awhile anyway... she most certainly misses me.
Update from today's visit from the dealership. I feel like an idiot wasting $58 on something I could have taken care of myself. I was thinking there was some exotic bearing noise, but when they put it on the lift, I had a bent rim. This is my 3rd rim ruined by hitting potholes and other road hazards. But instead of buying a new rim, I'm going to give a local machine shop a try. I'm taking one of my rims with a crack on the inside rim to get it welded and repaired. Since I'm already dismounting and remounting a tire with over 45k miles on it, I figured it's time to change the two new tires that I was planning to change in 3 months anyway. New tires will go into the back, old rear tires will move up front.

I stopped rotating my tires about 2 years ago. I figured I'd get 45K miles on the fronts, and 80+K miles on the rears which will become the new fronts. This way, I'm not hiding uneven wear patterns that rotating them every 7500 miles will do.

As for why I'm going through so many rims, I suspect it's the 18" wheels with rubber band tires. Do other people who went to 18s or 19's see increased rim damage? Or do I have cheap rims or drive too rough (I admittedly do like to drive like jeff Gordon).
 

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Final update on my wheel groaning problem. After replacing the bent rim, putting on two new tires (they were worn anyway), the groaning noise was still there. I went from the tire shop directly back to the car dealership. Now I don't feel so bad as they decided there was a worn bearing, possibly aggravated from, the bent wheel. The car is back to normal now, smooth as silk, though I'm about $1K poorer.

I now recall what happened. on Wednesday morning, as I was driving around a blind corner, another car was approaching me in the center of the country road causing me to veer hard right, hit the side gravel and grass in a sudden maneuver, with about 4 feet of pavement on my side of the road to work with. Later that day while heading home was when I noticed the groaning/whining. I also have to fix the plastidip on the wheel with just the tire change, and completely dip the repaired rim.so a few cans of white and Pearl plastidip and some sweat, and I should be back to normal.

But no worries, that's what emergency funds are for. The final damage $80 for the welding of the old cracked rim, $340 for the two new tires, $425 for the bearing replacement, and $58 for the initial bent rim diagnosis. I'm definitely going to be watching for road aberrations and avoiding anything that might hurt. 18" wheels with skinny rubber bands plus potholes are not a good mixture.

I was planning on using these tires until winter, but having to move the tires to the repaired rim anyway meant I might as well save on the install ca]harge and domit all how rather than paynagain in 3 months or so.
 

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If you have a whining noise in your car, you could just tell your mother in law to stay home next time.
 

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If you have a whining noise in your car, you could just tell your mother in law to stay home next time.
Who's responsible for the groaning/growling noise? The angry wife when she discovers your girlfriend, or the angry girlfriend when she discovers your wife?
 

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It's not a problem. The cage that holds the bearings cracks and the bearings all end up together rather than being spaced apart. That's what makes the noise. The cage will have to be replaced so if it cracks a little more that hardly matters. If you're worried about it, call GM and get it to confirm for you.

Note that the dealer isn't likely to have the part so you will likely need a loaner or something. Would probably be best to talk to the dealer before you show up. No doubt it won't agree what the problem is without seeing the car -- and it shouldn't -- but you can do a hypothetical. IOW "if it is the bearing cage then X, Y, Z".
So to give an update..... When I called and talked to the dealer I was told they had the parts in stock and it would only be 2 or 3 days to fix, yet here I sit nearly 2 weeks later still with no car......

For those of you who have been through this fix, what all is involved? The last week has been the service adviser basically dodging my calls and giving me excuse after excuse as to the status. It has been 2 weeks of "it will be done tomorrow"... Most of the time they said they were waiting on a part or on a tool, even though I was originally told they had it, and today after the service adviser dodged my call again, I finally talked to them after asking to talk to the manager, unsurprisingly when I asked for that suddenly the advisor was available....

So my question is, do they need to drain the cooling fluids to accomplish this fix? When I asked why it wasnt done yet I was told they were test driving it to make sure all the valves were opening and closing because they had to drain the coolant. It was originally confirmed to me that it was the drive bearing that I suspected it was and I feel like the dealer broke something on my car and has spent the last 1.5 weeks covering it up while they fixed it.

Please any advice would be extremely helpful.
 
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