2013 Volt won't pass a smog test

christypics66 · 2023-03-04

I had the charger receptacle replaced after waiting 2+ months for the part to come in but while waiting my tags became expired. Smog station said fail but I have no warning lights on . Took it back to the dealership and they said still no codes. So now what do I do?

scottf200

· #21 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

christypics66 said:
I drove it approx. 100 miles in hold mode before getting the smog check. So should I drive it another 100 miles on hold mode. Also should the driving be via freeway or city driving or does it matter? 2013 Volt with 96,000 miles. I'm in California. I've owned the car since 2016 and I love my Volt. Thank you for responding.

@christypics66 ,
I found this on the PDTC in CA. Maybe you just need to drive more miles (100 vs 200 mentioned) and 15 gas engine 'short' drives (warm-up cycles - ? 10 minutes)

Are there circumstances under which a PDTC will not cause a vehicle to fail a Smog Check inspection?
Yes. PDTCs will be ignored if the vehicle has completed at least 15 warm-up cycles and been driven at least 200 miles since its OBD information was last cleared.

CA gov --- PDTC vs DTC info here:
Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Codes (PDTCs) are very similar to regular Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). However, unlike regular DTCs, they cannot be reset by disconnecting the vehicle’s battery or cleared using an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) scan tool.

Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Codes

This page includes information relating to permanent diagnostic trouble codes and how they relate to the Smog Check Program, including frequently asked questions about permanent diagnostic trouble codes.

www.bar.ca.gov

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #22 · 3 mo ago

Steverino said:
In Illinois, error's that don't affect the gas engine emissions are not supposed to result in a smog test failure. So a keyless entry error or even a high voltage plug in charging issue would not affect tailpipe emissions and theoretically not result in an emission test failure. In practice, I don't know.

I agree with you! Thank you for responding. It's so frustrating.

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #23 · 3 mo ago

hellsop said:
But that's a different code than the one noted on the smog failure sheet? Are they ignoring that one or....?

No. That one is from after I failed the test . I took my results back to show the dealership and they didn't understand why either so they checked the history and then gave me the printout

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #24 · 3 mo ago

scottf200 said:
@christypics66 ,
I found this on the PDTC in CA. Maybe you just need to drive more miles (100 vs 200 mentioned) and 15 gas engine 'short' drives (warm-up cycles - ? 10 minutes)

CA gov --- PDTC vs DTC info here:
Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Codes (PDTCs) are very similar to regular Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). However, unlike regular DTCs, they cannot be reset by disconnecting the vehicle’s battery or cleared using an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) scan tool.

Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Codes

This page includes information relating to permanent diagnostic trouble codes and how they relate to the Smog Check Program, including frequently asked questions about permanent diagnostic trouble codes.

www.bar.ca.gov

So should I be driving those 200 miles and the 15 short 10 min drives all in hold mode?

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Steverino

· #25 · 3 mo ago

christypics66 said:
So should I be driving those 200 miles and the 15 short 10 min drives all in hold mode?

The miles need to be using the gas engine, so yes.

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #26 · 3 mo ago

Steverino said:
The miles need to be using the gas engine, so yes.

Thank you

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scottf200

· #27 · 3 mo ago

@christypics66 ,
The whole situation is a little confusing as you have piecemealed information instead of providing it all upfront.

Re: P0D26 = Battery Charger System Precharge Time Too Long.
It is not clear to me if the new PDTC is related to the work the dealship did?
I'd call that 800 number and try to get GM customer service to contact the dealer to help you more thoroughly and give you clearly step by step directions.

christypics66 said:
So should I be driving those 200 miles and the 15 short 10 min drives all in hold mode?

I honestly don't know but if it was me I'd do it in hold mode so the ICE/gas engine is being used. Part of the trouble is that wording like 'warm-up cycle' may just be old terminology that only applied to gas engines vs just 15 start+stop (on+drive+off) 'drives'. ie. even occurrences of drives on electric drives.

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ElectricCow15

· #28 · 3 mo ago

If there is actually nothing wrong, the car need drive cycles. Engine on, up to operating temp, certain speed for certain distances or times, cooling back to ambient temp.

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #29 · 3 mo ago

Thank you to all who've helped me to understand about how to possibly ( hopefully) pass a smog test. I will drive on hold mode for a tank of gas driving on the Fwy @ 75mph and around town for 15 drive cycles and then go straight to the retest to hope it passes. It seems stupid to force people to burn so much gas in order to pass a failed test when there's nothing wrong with my engine.

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crackers8199

· #30 · 3 mo ago

scottf200 said:
I think this is the number for GM customer care -- (800) 222-1020 . Since you are in CA with strict emissions, they may be able to push the right button at your dealership to look into this further or have suggestions about the failure at emissions. Just spit-balling.

if they can't assist and you need more help, e-mail CARB directly. they have been incredibly responsive so far in my warranty fight with GM - the helpline responded twice in the same day i sent my first e-mail (first time within an hour), and the actual warranty investigation was replied to by 10am the following day (i submitted the complaint form after 4pm).

Contact Us | California Air Resources Board

Helpline - General Information [email protected] Clean Air Vehicle Decal Application - DMV (800) 777-0133

ww2.arb.ca.gov

don't bother calling, it just rings a voicemail that tells you to e-mail the helpline address.

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Rhepler

· #31 · 3 mo ago

The way I read it , it failed a “Liquid Fuel Leak Test”. Do you smell fuel with the hood up?

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MikeBCo

· #32 · 3 mo ago

Rhepler said:
The way I read it , it failed a “Liquid Fuel Leak Test”. Do you smell fuel with the hood up?

Read the report again. The status is to the left of the item being evaluated. The Fail refers to the OBDII check item to the right

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #33 · 2 mo ago

MikeBCo said:
Read the report again. The status is to the left of the item being evaluated. The Fail refers to the OBDII check item to the right

After failing the test I was told to just keep driving (on hold) awhile longer. In total I've driven 360 miles to try and pass and I failed again. When I told the dealership about the second fail I was then told to charge it and drive normal. After 350+ unnecessary gas miles later. I'm frustrated because I need my current tags. Also because my car runs great with 96,000 miles 2013 Volt.

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Lug_Nut

· #34 · 2 mo ago

DTC P0D26 will probably not be re-set by driving on the ICE. This trouble code is associated with the battery charger used to convert the AC power (fed through the plug-in EVSE) to the high voltage DC traction battery pack.
This is a partial snip of the P0D26 resolution instructions:

I suspect a dealer visit for service is needed. Do they also perform smog tests?

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #35 · 2 mo ago

Lug_Nut said:
DTC P0D26 will probably not be re-set by driving on the ICE. This trouble code is associated with the battery charger used to convert the AC power (fed through the plug-in EVSE) to the high voltage DC traction battery pack.
This is a partial snip of the P0D26 resolution instructions:

View attachment 176463

I suspect a dealer visit for service is needed. Do they also perform smog tests?

Thank you for responding. No they don't do smog tests.

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christypics66

Discussion Starter · #36 · 2 mo ago

Jim_N_Tonic said:
Almost seems unnecessary to say, but did they open the hood to allow the engine to run during the test? First time I took mine in for an emissions test, the guy came back out to me and asked how to start the engine.. It's possible the person who tested your car was unfamiliar with how the car should be tested. Just a thought.....

After driving another 150 miles in hold mode I took it back for a retest and the smog tech never even opened my hood, he just plugged something in under my dash and said it still failed.

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jayoldschool

· #37 · 2 mo ago

It's simple. The codes need to be cleared, no codes return, and then the emission readiness flags set. Tell your dealer to clear the codes.

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scottf200

· #38 · 2 mo ago

scottf200 said:
I think this is the number for GM customer care -- (800) 222-1020 . Since you are in CA with strict emissions, they may be able to push the right button at your dealership to look into this further or have suggestions about the failure at emissions. Just spit-balling.

crackers8199 said:
if they can't assist and you need more help, e-mail CARB directly. they have been incredibly responsive so far in my warranty fight with GM - the helpline responded twice in the same day i sent my first e-mail (first time within an hour), and the actual warranty investigation was replied to by 10am the following day (i submitted the complaint form after 4pm).

Contact Us | California Air Resources Board

Helpline - General Information [email protected] Clean Air Vehicle Decal Application - DMV (800) 777-0133

ww2.arb.ca.gov

don't bother calling, it just rings a voicemail that tells you to e-mail the helpline address.

christypics66 said:
After driving another 150 miles in hold mode I took it back for a retest and the smog tech never even opened my hood, he just plugged something in under my dash and said it still failed.

@christypics66, have you done either or both suggestions above since your dealer is not helping? If not then why not try them instead of just driving it?

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ppvsteve

· #39 · 2 mo ago

christypics66 said:
After driving another 150 miles in hold mode I took it back for a retest and the smog tech never even opened my hood, he just plugged something in under my dash and said it still failed.

What is happening is the tech is plugging in his OBD scanner seeing the Permanent code and sending you away. That is not a fail. He thinks you will fail but that might not necessarily be the case. He needs to Redo the SMOG test and let the SMOG computer fail you or pass you. If He did that you would have another test paper to show what you failed for.

If you have driven the 200 miles and have the 15 warm up cycle (you may not the way you describe what you did) the smog computer will ignore the permanent code if you still have it in there.

What would be the best is if you have an OBD scanner that is capable at looking at the 2 data points you need to check
MILES_DRIV - Miles Driven Since codes were cleared
WARM_UPS - Number of warm up cycles

Remember a Warm up Cycle is not a Drive cycle. A warm up cycle is simply the engine getting to normal operating temperature and going back down below a temperature considered "Cold" This may be hard to achieve with a Hybrid as the engine may not be on all that much. I have no experience with Hybrids in this area.

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ppvsteve

· #40 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

scottf200 said:
I'd consider taking it back to the dealer and show them that there is still a fault that seems to be related to their service done.
Perhaps they can reset this "Permanent Fault Code" [P0D26 = Battery Charger System Precharge Time Too Long.] or suggest what to do related to the failed smog test.

That's the thing a permanent code does not mean there is a fault necessarily. Means there "was" a fault for sure. I will explain.

Permanent codes are something new in 2010 and newer vehicles. When you get a confirmed code (actual problem) it creates the confirmed or "Active" code and it creates a permanent code. You then fix what needs fixing and you clear the codes. The active or confirmed code goes away but the permanent stays around (it cannot be cleared with a scan tool) . It does not mean there is anything still wrong with the car. It just means; I am going to stay around and make sure this problem is really fixed. So it is waiting for you to recreate the driving condition that set the code in the first place. It wants to see that recreation in some instances 3 times and in some instances up to 40 times (depends on the manufacturer and code) . Once it sees the problem is fixed it will clear it's self. So as you can see it may hang around a while.

This "permanent" code thing was done to stop people from squeaking by emission testing by resetting the codes and hurrying to the emission test before the code became "Confirmed or Active" . But the CA Smog folks also realized these things were hanging around for far to long and effecting peoples ability to pass a smog check. So they came up with a compromise. As long as you have driven 200 miles and have warmed up and cooled down the engine 15 times that should be enough to catch 99% of the people trying to squeak by on an emission test so after those 2 parameters we will ignore the permanent code if it is still there and give you a pass.

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