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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 Volt with 57,000 miles on it.
It typically takes about 11.3 ~ 11.6 kW to fully charge and uses about 10.2 kWh per charge.
Starting this November, it only takes about 10.xx to fully charge and uses about 9.x kWh before the ICE kicks in. There is about 1 kWh loss.

Below are the dates and how many kWh it took to fully charge from fully discharged:
08/02/21 11.6 kWh
08/11/21 11.33 kWh
09/22/21 11.65 kWh
10/04/21 11.74 kWh
10/21/21 11.29 kWh
10/26/21 11.39 kWh
11/05/21 10.76 kWh
11/08/21 10.74 kWh
11/17/21 10.67 kWh

If this is normal battery degradation, then why did it drop suddenly?
 

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Did you have the programming recall performed? GM issued a recall where they reprogrammed the “floor” of the battery state of charge up some to prevent frequent propulsion reduced episodes. So that would reduce available kw capacity.
 

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2011 Premium, Nav (no camera:( )
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Is it possible that as the weather has cooled the car is using less shore power to run the A/C, pump, and cooling fans to keep the battery cool while it is charging? That may account for some of the lower energy consumption to charge. Has your range electric driving range dropped equally? If not, likely not a concern.
 

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The Volt is not the best at telling us actual battery use. The kWh you are seeing is how much was used for propulsion. Other overhead like headlights, radio, A/C, heat, etc are not counted in that number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Every recall has been serviced. I've had this car for 5 years now. There was no unusual activity that I have done. This is the first time I am seeing consistent 10.xx kWh fully charge. I am in southern California so the weather is not impacting significantly if any. Yes. The range went down about 4 miles as well which is about 1 kWh loss.

I just fully charged today, and it took 10.83 kWh.

Should I be concerned? How you guys Volt are doing?
 

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Should I be concerned?
In my opinion, you should quit obsessing. If you've lost 10% on your battery, that is no way near the minimum of 30% before GM will do anything. And, as noted above there are a multitude of reasons why the measured transfer of energy may change. I'd recommend driving the car until you see a genuine identifiable problem. Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In my opinion, you should quit obsessing. If you've lost 10% on your battery, that is no way near the minimum of 30% before GM will do anything. And, as noted above there are a multitude of reasons why the measured transfer of energy may change. I'd recommend driving the car until you see a genuine identifiable problem. Enjoy.
Good point.

As I mentioned above, I've had this car for 5 years which means that I went through considerable amounts of the transfer of energy measurements from considerable amounts of situations and conditions. This is the first time I am consistently getting lowered capacity with lowered range. If it was a gradual reduction then I would have ignored it. However, the sudden drop made me wonder.

Again, good point, I should just enjoy driving until I notice an actual problem.
 

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I don’t track energy input to the battery, only the kWh used as displayed on the infotainment screen after a full battery discharge. I have basically given up making any sense of it. Since April I have gotten around 9.6 kWh out of the battery. But after sitting on the charger for 4 weeks while we were recently out of town, the next discharge cycle only got 8.9. But the cycle before got 10.7, the highest I have gotten since I started tracking it in April. And the following cycle got 10.4, second highest. So my lowest at 8.9 is bookended by my highest.

From my reading here, 9.6 is not too bad for a 2013. No issues with the car so I am operating under the assumption that all is well. I haven’t bothered to get an OBD scanner and app, if I have a cell going bad there isn’t really anything I can do about it anyways.
 

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2012 Volt Premium (Cyber Gray Metallic) - Stock
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You are probably fine and may have some battery degradation. Just watch if there are other signs as this stuff seems to creep up fast and once the battery has failed, it’s no other choice but a tow.
 

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i do my test at 21 deg c
round trip from work to home im about 1 km short from doing all on battery
even though my kw usage bounces around that distance has stayed the same or maybe less a 1/2 km
close enough to not worry about it
 

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Batteries degrade with time, so it's guaranteed you have some degradation after 7 years. However you're wasting time looking at the kWh data in my opinion. Once in a while, look at the individual cell data especially in the fully discharged state to get a picture of the battery condition. I'm doing so quarterly.
 

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i do my test at 21 deg c
round trip from work to home im about 1 km short from doing all on battery
even though my kw usage bounces around that distance has stayed the same or maybe less a 1/2 km
close enough to not worry about it
Dang, so your engine fires up daily for only 1/2 to 1 km from home?
That's not good duty for your engine. It never warms the oil up fully.
Couldn't you slow down your commute ~5 kph and make it all on EV?
 

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Dang, so your engine fires up daily for only 1/2 to 1 km from home?
That's not good duty for your engine. It never warms the oil up fully.
Couldn't you slow down your commute ~5 kph and make it all on EV?
to do my test i dont charge at work
otherwise i charge at work
so - fear not my friend, 130,000 km and 85% electric
motor runs only, due to temp and long haul
on one of my tests at 21 deg c, i did try slowing down and doing the speed limit :) the engine fired up as i pulled into my driveway
at - 9 deg c and engine defered , i will use 90% battery one way
the other reason i charge at work, half of my ev miles are paid for
 

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Like the OP, I too live in SoCal. I have a 2014 Volt which I purchased used in March 2017 with only about 18k miles on it. I have also had any outstanding recalls and updates performed on it. Current mileage is about 86k, mostly commuting on the battery alone with perhaps 6 longer trips a year that deplete the battery and trigger the ICE for extended periods.

I have never seen battery numbers like the OP's. My current battery usage (as reported by the car) is always in the low 9.x kWh range before the car switches to the ICE. I have noticed in the time I've owned it (at this point,3 years and 8 months) that this has gone down by something like 5% to 10%.

The only anomalies I have had were having to replace a window motor, a defective thermostat (the car gave me a reduced propulsion warning as I was climbing a long grade into Death valley in 100+ degree temperatures at the time) that had to be replaced at a dealership while on a road trip (inconvenient, but not life-ending) and something that happened on November 1st of this year. I had run the battery down as far as the car would allow before switching to the ICE. I drove about 100 miles at freeway speeds then, when I got home, I forgot to hook the car up to the charger overnight. The next morning, the car started in reduced propulsion mode and the engine revved like mad as I drove around the block. I returned home and plugged the car in for an hour and the problem has not returned.
 

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2012 Volt Premium (Cyber Gray Metallic) - Stock
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to do my test i dont charge at work
otherwise i charge at work
so - fear not my friend, 130,000 km and 85% electric
motor runs only, due to temp and long haul
on one of my tests at 21 deg c, i did try slowing down and doing the speed limit :) the engine fired up as i pulled into my driveway
at - 9 deg c and engine defered , i will use 90% battery one way
the other reason i charge at work, half of my ev miles are paid for
I don't think it actually "hurts" the engine to do a short trip cold start as bad as some make it to be. All engines cold start, all engines have to warm up, the only difference I see is the ones that ran for a short period of time don't actually get the oil up to temperature and that builds up acids in the sump. Which is why GM recommends a quality synthetic oil (or synthetic blend in their later years) to help neutralize the effects of acid buildup.

I honestly believe if you follow the Oil Life Monitor, don't race or abuse your vehicle, it's perfectly fine to go up to 1 year or 7,500 miles on most GM engines even with short trips built in. For some reference, I recently drove a 2020 Spark that had racked up only 3,000 miles in the first year of ownership. The OLM was at 27%, which means it's ACTIVELY counting down due to all those short trips and may suggest an oil change at 3,500 or 4,000 miles.

3,500 miles of short trip, city driving probably wears the oil down just like 7,500 miles of highway driving. Therefore the OLM is most likely correct and there's no harm to running the oil as intended by the manufacturer.

Just my .02...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Batteries degrade with time, so it's guaranteed you have some degradation after 7 years. However you're wasting time looking at the kWh data in my opinion. Once in a while, look at the individual cell data especially in the fully discharged state to get a picture of the battery condition. I'm doing so quarterly.
How do I do that? The battery is fully discharged and the below screenshot is what the battcell looks like. I do not know how to make sense out of it.

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Screenshot
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Like the OP, I too live in SoCal. I have a 2014 Volt which I purchased used in March 2017 with only about 18k miles on it. I have also had any outstanding recalls and updates performed on it. Current mileage is about 86k, mostly commuting on the battery alone with perhaps 6 longer trips a year that deplete the battery and trigger the ICE for extended periods.

I have never seen battery numbers like the OP's. My current battery usage (as reported by the car) is always in the low 9.x kWh range before the car switches to the ICE. I have noticed in the time I've owned it (at this point,3 years and 8 months) that this has gone down by something like 5% to 10%.

The only anomalies I have had were having to replace a window motor, a defective thermostat (the car gave me a reduced propulsion warning as I was climbing a long grade into Death valley in 100+ degree temperatures at the time) that had to be replaced at a dealership while on a road trip (inconvenient, but not life-ending) and something that happened on November 1st of this year. I had run the battery down as far as the car would allow before switching to the ICE. I drove about 100 miles at freeway speeds then, when I got home, I forgot to hook the car up to the charger overnight. The next morning, the car started in reduced propulsion mode and the engine revved like mad as I drove around the block. I returned home and plugged the car in for an hour and the problem has not returned.
I had to replace a window motor(regulator) for both the passenger and driver side as well.
My typical battery usage before the car switches to the ICE for the past five years was 10.2 kWh. Occasionally hitting a range between 9.8 to 10.4 kWh without a heater or air conditioner on.

Last three I recall 9.6 kWh, 9.1 kWh, 9.7 kWh.
 
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