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2013 Chevy Volt
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, I've spent the last few hours reading the numerous excellent threads about trailer hitches for the Gen 1 (and Gen 2, but mine's a 2013). I really appreciate everyone's contributions: so much useful information! This post has a question, but is also to help consolidate the info for future readers.

My intention is to tow a small sailboat trailer, so pretty light, and within about 100 miles. But, I know that once the hitch is installed, I may start using it willy-nilly! I think the 100-lb tongue limit may be breached in my exuberance. I've never had a car with a tow hitch (loaded up my VW Golf with the boat on top, or a washing machine inside) and I might go a bit nuts. I've seen the posts from the deer hunter, the bikers, the storage boxes...the possibilities are endless!

So, I know I'll have to sleep on the cheap floor-pan-hole Curt vs. the Whole-Paycheck Torklift decision. I'm leaning towards the Torklift because I like to do things "the right way". But, I also like to do things smartly, economically. Overpaying is annoying, and a bit tough on my budget since I just bought the car, and it seems like Torklift is charging 3x as much because they can, not because it's what it costs. But getting what you pay for...well...

Question 1: Any Curt owners who are disappointed? Any known complications from that hole in the floor pan?

And, I'll have to decide between Stealth (low receiver) vs. Invisi (high receiver behind the plate ... wait, that sounds like a weird combo of baseball and football!). I'm including photo and links for the three Torklift styles for future readers, because I was super confused until I found this on another thread.

Torklift Stealth Install video
Torklift Invisi Install video
Curt Install video

170697



QUESTION 2 (MAIN QUESTION)
WIRING
. I've read lots of threads here, watched this video, and I know it's easily doable. But Torklift and etrailer sell wiring kits for $90+, whereas others have said they bought kits for $25 on Amazon. I've seen lots of Curt model numbers mentioned on threads.

So..... can anyone tell me which kit I really need to do the wiring for a 2013 trailer hitch?

I won't use the crimp splicers that can damage the wires. I will use the Positaps or maybe figure out how to use cool heat-shrink-self-soldering connectors, as shown here at 8:40.

I'm a sailor, so am planning on putting heat-shrink tubing over the connections where possible.

I guess since the connections will be interior, the risk of corrosion from moisture is lower than with a pick-up truck's hitch. But again, I like to do things the right way. If I'm wrong about this, I'd appreciate being corrected!

Thanks in advance for any advice/experiences!

PS: It's a 2013 Volt, and I live in a snowy place so salt is a reality. UHaul said they don't paint the drill hole or use silicone sealant...so they're likely out of the running, even though they'll offer an installed entire package, including ball, for the same price as just the hitch of the Torklift. Sigh.
 

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I've had my Curt hitch on my 2012 for probably 6 years now, and have been happy with it. I tow a trailer probably at least once a month. Usually dump runs, or hardware store runs, so pretty light. I do occasionally tow my atv as well, but that's still under the 1000lb limit. Last fall I towed a small custom teardrop trailer (<500lbs) to a friends wedding (150 miles each way). Again the car handled it great.
I've had no issues with the holes in the trunk floor. I've stepped on the hitch plenty of times, and it holds up just fine. I'd be hesitant to use a cargo rack, but it's too low to really do that anyway.

As for the wiring, all you need is a standard 4-wire plug like this: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58040-4-Way-Connector-Socket/dp/B001GN1M7K/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=trailer+wiring+plug+vehicle+side&qid=1593615788&sr=8-2
You just tap into the wires with the positaps. There is no need for the converters that some people use, as those are only required when the brake and turn signal utilize different wires (which the Volt does not).

Bottom line, if you want a cargo rack, you probably should go with the Invisi-hitch. The curt or the stealth hitches are very low, and you'd need some sort of riser to prevent from scraping the ground all the time. If not, then the Curt will do just fine. Along the same lines, with the Curt, you'll probably need to find the largest rise hitch you can fine. I think this is the one I have:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@emartin00, thank you much for sharing your positive Curt experience and thoughts. One thing I'm concerned about is the 100-lb tongue weight limit, so it's nice to see that you've stood on the tongue without problems (although that's short term, isn't it?). Also, I think rather than a cargo rack, I might look at a bike rack, for which the Invisi seems a little high. With light-weight road bikes, I'd have to put four of them to reach the 100-lb limit, but in the chance that I'd want a couple of heavier city bikes,

Yours is a 1.25" then?

Thanks for the link to such an inexpensive wiring harness too! I was going by this video, which shows connection to the 12-volt battery as well as the passenger side blinker. Sounds like you are saying that what they provide is overkill? Do you know if they connect to the 12-volt battery in order to power the trailer lights?

Many thanks!
 

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@emartin00, thank you much for sharing your positive Curt experience and thoughts. One thing I'm concerned about is the 100-lb tongue weight limit, so it's nice to see that you've stood on the tongue without problems (although that's short term, isn't it?). Also, I think rather than a cargo rack, I might look at a bike rack, for which the Invisi seems a little high. With light-weight road bikes, I'd have to put four of them to reach the 100-lb limit, but in the chance that I'd want a couple of heavier city bikes,

Yours is a 1.25" then?

Thanks for the link to such an inexpensive wiring harness too! I was going by this video, which shows connection to the 12-volt battery as well as the passenger side blinker. Sounds like you are saying that what they provide is overkill? Do you know if they connect to the 12-volt battery in order to power the trailer lights?

Many thanks!
Yes, 1.25" receiver. Unless something changed, Curt only makes the 1.25 for the Gen I Volt.
For a bike rack I think Curt recommends running a strap from inside the trunk (drivers side) to the bike rack to help reduce any bouncing and strain on the trunk floor. I've never used a bike rack, but seems easy enough.

For the wiring, you'll have 3 connections behind the drivers side tail light, and you will still need to run 1 wire over to the passenger side tail light wire. The 12V battery connection shown in the video is only required if you use the converter, and as I mentioned before, you don't really need it on the Volt. Some people think it gives you a layer of protection in case of faulty trailer wiring, but I've never had an issue.
The wiring will be the same as in the video, except there will be no red or black wires. I also chose to run the wires out the side cubby so I can tuck them away when I don't need it.
 
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