There's these: http://gm-volt.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-9335.htmlI thought I posted the 2013 0-60 times on this board, but I've never been able to figure out how the search engine works here.
There's these: http://gm-volt.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-9335.htmlI thought I posted the 2013 0-60 times on this board, but I've never been able to figure out how the search engine works here.
Max power available in CS or CD should be the same, around 110kW. In CS mode, you are drawing off the battery buffer to hit that, but you can still hit that just fine. If you draw the buffer down too low, eventually you'll get Propulsion Power Reduced and be limited to the 55kW-ish, I believe. It almost sounds like OP is living in PPR full time, but with no errors (and PPR in CD mode with a full battery makes no sense at all). Something weird is definitely going on... very interested in what the dealer discovers.snip...
The car seems to lack power in CS mode and seems to be limited in regeneration when observing the driver’s information display. We do know that in CS mode available power is not as great as when in CD mode. That is by design. However, the OP sees a maximum of 59 kW. IIRC, in CS mode the maximum should be 80 kW – someone correct that figure if need be.
No. If the car is on and functioning, it's on and the 12V is only along for the ride getting a trickle charge. HV+APM are providing power the vehicle during regular operations. If those die, the car would not drive.Considering the range of problems, could this possibly be a defective 12 volt battery situation ?
I was thinking that the electronics are driving from the 12 volt system, would be instructing the inverter as to how much power to produce, how much to generate, etc.
My guess is that the battery is original but I haven't looked at it.
The only anomaly beyond drivability issues is that the back door push buttons don't work very reliably. However the rear hatch has never failed to release. I replaced the button battery in all three of my remotes because one was weak.
What about some form of service or diagnostic mode ?I second sherpa's comments.
It's almost like you're running in Propulsion Power Reduced (PPR) mode, but that should have a message on screen and a MIL accompanying it. Very strange.
No. If the car is on and functioning, it's on and the 12V is only along for the ride getting a trickle charge. HV+APM are providing power the vehicle during regular operations. If those die, the car would not drive.
OP would also be seeing lots of strange error messages and MILs on startup and I haven't seen reference to anything of that sort.
Not sure what tr represents, but it looks like just regular service, recalls and tire replacement to me.Service Only Mode
This power mode is available for service and diagnostics, and to verify the proper operation of the malfunction indicator lamp as may be required for emission inspection purposes. With the vehicle off, and the brake pedal not applied, pressing and holding the POWER button for more than five seconds will place the vehicle in Service Only Mode. The instruments and audio systems will operate as they do in ON/RUN, but the vehicle will not be able to be driven. The propulsion system will not start in Service Only Mode. Push the button again to turn the vehicle off.
Notice: Service Only Mode will discharge the 12‐volt battery. Do not use Service Only Mode for an extended period, or the vehicle may not start.
could this car have been a tune gone wrong,,car's messed up some where
I sure hope that is not the case, especially since this isn't my normal dealership.If it's a bad tune, that should easily be picked up when an MDI is connected. My understanding is that all modern GM ECU's maintain a record of all flashes performed. This has been a huge topic of concern since some people were flashing a tune, screwed something up, reflashed the GM approved tune and took in for warranty repair which was denied since a record of past tunes was present and indicated a non-approved flash.
Okay, I've got a number using Torque Pro on an Android phone communicating via Bluetooth to the OBD2 adapter.I would say your evidence for something wrong that you can take to the dealer is right there. That 59kW.
For kicks and giggles I'd be interested in what your 0-60 time is. Sounds like it could be way slower if you are in fact getting only 59kW.
Or maybe the stored values / parameters / data cache gets cleared and starting from scratch solves the problem.I'd bet it's just something with the existing tune that went wonky. Unfortunately it seems even though a reflash frequently just writes the same program that was there before, it seems to take care of a lot of issues when done unless it's a hardware failure of some sort. I always question how something thats been burned to a ROM can get corrupt or altered to cause undesired operation but apparently it happens as several members have had control modules reprogrammed with the same programming that was present before and problems cleared up.
Ah, but the substrate can go bad and change the "pits" that make up the data. Burned discs with a purple color are usually have an organic substrate that can deteriorate in the presence of UV light / sunlight. I have accidentally left discs near a window and you can see the change in color. Once I had a gem clip on a disc that left a ghost image after a few weeks.It's like trying to wrap my head around a CD/DVD going bad because the written portion somehow became corrupt. It doesn't work in my head how that can happen, but plenty of evidence on here suggests otherwise.
If somebody tried to EFILive/HPTuners flash it and failed or used a similar tool, they could have accidentally limited output. You would see no check engine lights, nothing. You will need the dealer tool to reflash the Hybrid Control and ECM back to stock if you cannot locate the guy who tuned it, since most of them lock the tunes onto your computer.Okay, I've got a number using Torque Pro on an Android phone communicating via Bluetooth to the OBD2 adapter.
It was blistering cold outside as we are down in the 50s and I had to run the defroster since it was a little drizzly. I have a friend with a long, smooth paved drive to his house on a farm that I have used it to diagnose vehicle before. (At least this time his wife couldn't complain about engine noise!) While the driveway was wet but I never spun a tire and traction control never kicked in.
Turns out that my car is truly slower than it feels. Perhaps being so low to the ground versus my truck gave me the impression that it was quicker than it really is.
I did three runs to 60 mph: 12.389, 12.667 and 12.501 seconds.
Soooo, that seems in line with the other numbers.
However one interesting thing did occur. I did see 61kW pop up on the display and stay there for a couple of seconds. So "59" itself isn't a hard point. Maybe because I had the climate control system on because doesn't that get added into the power numbers?
Anyhow, question answered and another piece of puzzle is found. Now where to put it!?
Quote from OP: "I cannot get it to go over 59 kW power output under any circumstance, Drive or Low, Normal, Sport, Mountain or Hold modes."Just for fun, did you try sport mode and see if you get any different max number?
Let's say I get up to 55 mph, nice weather, climate control system off, level ground, sufficient battery in the CD mode:Re-reading this thread stirred a thought... I wonder if the previous owner "rode the brakes." This could have led to the need to replace the brake pads... and could "riding the brakes" eventually degrade the regen/friction brake blending programming?
Another thought... when coasting at a reasonable speed, shifting from D to L should produce a noticeable increase in regen. What happens if, when coasting in D, the OP places a light pressure on the brake pedal? Putting a light pressure on the brake pedal should increase the regen (without applying any friction braking), unless some misadjustment instructs the system to decrease the regen because the (friction) brakes are being applied.