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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a new message on the DIC that I've never seen before

THE SETUP:
I started my car like normal to use is as a very expensive space heater in the garage (thermostat set to 78, all windows down, hatchback open). I then changed coats from my nice coat for everyday use to my farmer's outfit as I was about to swap to winter floor mats (thanks Mister Dave) and install new wiper blades.

THE EVENT:
When I was done working on the car, I pressed the power button to shut the volt off, but with the remote in the house, the Volt ignored me. Then I pressed the button again and the volt shut off.

THE MESSAGE:
Then the car binged at me 3 times and popped up "No remote detected. press brake to restart." Curious, I pressed the brake then the power button and the Volt started right up. I tried it again, double tapping to power off, and again 3 bings, it offered to let me start the car without the remote.

I"m thinking this might have been a result of the triple honk feature that we hate so much, the car is figuring that I started it, drove to work, and it won't strand me at work if I shut off the car without the key.

A SIDE NOTE:
On my first set of wiper changes, I went with a different brand of wiper, struggled to get the passenger side to go on, ended up breaking the new wiper wiper and reusing the old one. This time I bought GM wipers, and what a world of difference_ super easy to get on and off (as long as you slide the little tabs into the right slot). I'm never going 3rd party again with the volt wipers.
 

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Had the exact same thing happen to me once before the triple honk update. the wife and i were in the car together and i was driving. dropped her at walgreens and i drove across the street to the gas station. turned the car off and got the message. i did not have the remote she did and thought i would have to walk to her to get the remote. but i pressed power button and it started up. thought it was a fluke.
 

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On my first set of wiper changes, I went with a different brand of wiper, struggled to get the passenger side to go on, ended up breaking the new wiper wiper and reusing the old one. This time I bought GM wipers, and what a world of difference_ super easy to get on and off (as long as you slide the little tabs into the right slot). I'm never going 3rd party again with the volt wipers.
where did you get the GM wipers and what did the set you back?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
where did you get the GM wipers and what did the set you back?
Chevy dealership in Champaign, IL. $31.61 for the pair including sales tax. I probably could have found a better deal online, except toss in shipping and waiting and it's probably a toss-up. I happened to be in town, had the time, bought them, done deal.
 

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" NO REMOTE DETECTED PRESS BRAKE TO RESTART" is mentioned in both Gen 1 and Gen 2 manuals.

The Gen 2 manual specifically states that you have 5 minutes after turning off the car in the absense of the RKE to restart it.

This message displays when attempting to turn off the vehicle and the RKE transmitter is no longer detected. Restarting is allowed without the RKE transmitter for five minutes. Press the brake pedal and start button to restart the vehicle.
The Gen 1 manual is less clear. Says you can restart it, then says you can't. My best guess is that it's just ambiguously worded and that they actually behave the same.

This message displays if the RKE transmitter is no longer detected in the vehicle. Press the brake pedal and the POWER O button to restart the vehicle, or press the POWER O button without pressing the brake pedal to turn the vehicle off.
If the vehicle is turned off and a valid transmitter is not available, the vehicle will not restart.
 

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" NO REMOTE DETECTED PRESS BRAKE TO RESTART" is mentioned in both Gen 1 and Gen 2 manuals.

The Gen 2 manual specifically states that you have 5 minutes after turning off the car in the absense of the RKE to restart it.
As discussed on another thread, this error message will occasionally happen with the RKE in your pocket. Only solution I found is to put it in the center console next to the transmitter and cycle on / off.
 

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this happened to me last summer
I ended up putting the keyfob into the slot on top of the dash to scan my keyfob
my chevy dealer read me the riot act for not having my volt towed into the dealer to fix the problem
they told me my "temporary fix" will go bad eventually, well....it has been a year later,with no problems!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
this happened to me last summer
I ended up putting the keyfob into the slot on top of the dash to scan my keyfob
my chevy dealer read me the riot act for not having my volt towed into the dealer to fix the problem
they told me my "temporary fix" will go bad eventually, well....it has been a year later,with no problems!!!
You know the slot doesn't really do anything special other than place the fob closer to the sensor, right? Have you tried changing the battery to the fob as it might just be a dying battery. Towing the vehicle to the dealership to change a battery seems excessive. Of course, if the problem is with the transmitter/receiver module on the Volt side, then maybe the dealer has a point.
 

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Had the exact same thing happen to me once before the triple honk update. the wife and i were in the car together and i was driving. dropped her at walgreens and i drove across the street to the gas station. turned the car off and got the message. i did not have the remote she did and thought i would have to walk to her to get the remote. but i pressed power button and it started up. thought it was a fluke.
What is this, "gas station"?
 

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You know the slot doesn't really do anything special other than place the fob closer to the sensor, right? Have you tried changing the battery to the fob as it might just be a dying battery. Towing the vehicle to the dealership to change a battery seems excessive. Of course, if the problem is with the transmitter/receiver module on the Volt side, then maybe the dealer has a point.
when this happened to me, my volt was only 6 month's old, with less than 2,000 miles on the clock
iit hasn't happened since, and I have 14,900 trouble free miles on her
 

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Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

I just had this problem occur. I figured that it wasn't the fobs, as I had replaced the batteries in both of them not very long ago. Fearful that I might have an expensive dealer visit ahead of me, I came here and was relieved to find out that the "wait 5 minute and all will be right again" cure worked. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences above!
 

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I just had this problem occur. I figured that it wasn't the fobs, as I had replaced the batteries in both of them not very long ago. Fearful that I might have an expensive dealer visit ahead of me, I came here and was relieved to find out that the "wait 5 minute and all will be right again" cure worked. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences above!
I've replaced the fob batteries with new ones only to have the fobs work intermittently. I solved the problem of the door lock not responding, or when in the car, having the "no fob detected" message, by hitting my pocket containing the fob. Doing that jiggles the battery in the fob and makes (good enough) electrical contact for the fob to work again.
 

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I've replaced the fob batteries with new ones only to have the fobs work intermittently. I solved the problem of the door lock not responding, or when in the car, having the "no fob detected" message, by hitting my pocket containing the fob. Doing that jiggles the battery in the fob and makes (good enough) electrical contact for the fob to work again.
More likely than moving the battery it simply moves something ELSE in your pocket out of the way. A randomly-bad combination of keys arranged can make for enough multipath that the car and fob can't hear each other clearly (too many "echoes"), rather than being a case of not being loud enough (which is what fresh batteries fix).
 

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More likely than moving the battery it simply moves something ELSE in your pocket out of the way. A randomly-bad combination of keys arranged can make for enough multipath that the car and fob can't hear each other clearly (too many "echoes"), rather than being a case of not being loud enough (which is what fresh batteries fix).
Hummm... I do have three keys on the ring as well. I'm going to experiment.
 

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OK. I've completed my test. I removed the keys from the fob and in over 3 days I have had three separate non-responses at the car. I had to hit my pocket containing the fob to have the car respond to it.

Helipop's theory certainly has merit, just that in my case, it doesn't apply. I contend that poor electrical contact with the battery terminal(s) is causing my fob to be intermittent. I can live with this, as my work-around is simple and effective.

EDIT: To be clear, the fob was the only item in my pocket. My keys were carried in my watch pocket.
 

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If you touched the surface of the batteries when you installed the new ones, a bad connection could if fact be an issue. Remove the battery and clean the surfaces of the battery and the contacts in the fob with a pencil eraser. Carefully reinstall the battery touching just the edge and only with clean hands.
Natural oils on your fingers can cause a poor connection and cause issues such as what you are experiencing.
 

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If you touched the surface of the batteries when you installed the new ones, a bad connection could if fact be an issue. Remove the battery and clean the surfaces of the battery and the contacts in the fob with a pencil eraser. Carefully reinstall the battery touching just the edge and only with clean hands.
Natural oils on your fingers can cause a poor connection and cause issues such as what you are experiencing.
Agreed. I am guilty of not having used white gloves when replacing the batteries. <grins> And, I guess that I have another test to perform...

I also believe that in the course of 6 years the terminals can become contaminated to the point of causing poor contact with the battery. So, I won't clean those contacts for this test, since I haven't touched them with my fingers.

I'll post here when my new test is completed. And, I'll keep my keys in my watch pocket so that that variable is removed from the test.
 

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Had an issue with my fob a week or so ago. I had been having issues periodically getting in the car, sometimes it would work, but it would often take multiple pushes on the door handle buttons for the doors to open. I had never gotten a low fob battery warning or anything.
Went to get in the car one day and the fob wouldn't work at all. Used the key to open the door and thought I'd put the fob in the cubby on the top of the dash. Well the horn started blowing like crazy as soon as the door opened and I couldn't get the bloody rubber mat out.
Once I fumbled and got the mat out, I was able to get the key in the slot up there and get the car started.
Went straight to the store to get a new 2032 battery... :rolleyes:
 

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In my 2013, I get no response to opening a locked door about 10% of the time. I solve it by pressing the unlock button on the fob. Sometimes I get a "no remote detected" message trying to start up the car, so I hit any button the fob and the message goes away and the car starts. Meh....the car is 7 years old and has 80k miles, so it gets ornery once in a while...
 
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