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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 volt. Has no heat in Ice or Electric.
Things I've done/checked.
-pulled fuses
-the heater draws current(kw jump in electric with turning on heat)
-that inline filter/adapter is clean
-I can hear and feel the pump behind the front passenger wheel well.

Hood Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle

Heat eventually creeps into this line into the cabin , but it isn't flowing and the heater core isn't clogged(I pulled that and checked that also) .

Dealership said they think it might be the chcm. But that wouldn't cause no heat in Ice mode would it?
Any suggestions?
 

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moved to the Problems forum as it SEEMS like you have a problem...
 
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I haven't had issue with my Volt, but in my 2012 F150 an electronic blend door actuator failed, resulting in cold air blowing no matter what the controls were set to.

Hopefully someone has had (and solved) your issue at some point!
 

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how long does the kW jump up? should be for a long time. If only for a few seconds, then likely the pump. If it take along time for heat to creep into the heater core, then there is no flow. If the kW do not stay up for a long time, then I would suspect the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how long does the kW jump up? should be for a long time. If only for a few seconds, then likely the pump. If it take along time for heat to creep into the heater core, then there is no flow. If the kW do not stay up for a long time, then I would suspect the pump.
KWs stay up for a while it does take a bit for the heat to creep to the heater core. If it is a no flow issue, any ideas where I should start looking?
 

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The cabin heater loop pump isn't working. The power consumption is the resistive heating circuit activating. I would be looking at the equipment that manages the coolant flow through the cabin heater core.
 

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OK, I reread this OP. No heat in ICE or electric would imply a blockage at a common point such as the three way valve or heater core. I think there is a strainer at the three way valve. I think there was a very recent post on removing and cleaning the strainer. How did you check that the heater core is not blocked?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, I reread this OP. No heat in ICE or electric would imply a blockage at a common point such as the three way valve or heater core. I think there is a strainer at the three way valve. I think there was a very recent post on removing and cleaning the strainer. How did you check that the heater core is not blocked?
Yes I had the cabin heater core out and ran water through it, it's not blocked. Also the strainer/adapter/filters thing is clean.
 

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Does that three way valve work?
 

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Yes I had the cabin heater core out and ran water through it, it's not blocked. Also the strainer/adapter/filters thing is clean.
When my cabin heater loop pump failed, I could still hear it running. In fact, I could hear it very loudly. You probably have an impeller failure where the electric motor is still running, but the impeller has failed and is not moving fluid. Since you already tested the heater core, sounds like you are skilled enough to swap this out pretty easy. I ordered a salvage for $65 and did it in about an hour.
 

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As a diagnostic test, when vehicle is stone cold (parked overnight), run the heater for a few minutes in EV mode. Shut the car off to prevent the engine from starting. (best practice is to override the hood open switch to allow underhood inspection without the engine running). Use an infrared thermometer to check inlet/outlet hoses of high voltage heater, three-way valve, heater core, aux heater pump. You've already performed some extensive testing, so if you still can't find where the heat is present, maybe the temp door on the HVAC unit is stuck closed.
 

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You guys realize that between OP and this forum we've done more troubleshooting than the typical dealership service tech.
 
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