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Discussion Starter #1
My heater blower had been problematic for a long time. Sometimes it just refuses to turn on (the heat or AC turns on, but the blower itself doesn't), and lately when it does turn on it seems like its not moving as much air as it used to, and it makes a bit of a whine. In the past week even when its set to a constant speed in the HVAC controls, the actual fan speed waivers quite a bit. I plan to just replace the blower entirely hoping to solve both problems.

My problem is that I haven't been able to find any information on how to actually do this. I've done a lot of work on older cars where you can actually see things, so I'm mechanically inclined, I'm just not sure how you actually get to the thing. I'm guessing since you access the cabin air filter through the back of the glove box, I probably need to replace the glove box door, but other than that vague idea I'm stumped.
 

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If you open your glovebox and pull out the back of it, you can access the "door" for your cabin air filter.
(see this thread)
The fan sits just below that.
I have absolutely no idea how you'd remove and/or replace the motor though, I've never looked that hard.
 

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Nothing could be simpler and it's easy for someone that is comfortable with tools.
DISABLE AIRBAGS
Remove the instrument panel lower trim panel insulator - right side. Refer to Instrument Panel Lower Trim Panel Insulator Replacement.
Remove the floor air outlet duct. Refer to Floor Front Air Outlet Duct Replacement - Right Side.
Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
Remove fasteners securing motor.
Remove motor.
 

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Yes, looks pretty easy according to the service manual. Sounds like your diagnosis is probably right, you may be able to lube the bearings and revive it for awhile. There is also a fan control module in there that could be the culprit, but if you're hearing a whine I'd be more suspect of motor bearings.
 

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Job for the dealership, digging deep into the dash with airbags is not for the weekend warrior
The airbags are on top of the dash and aren't easy to trigger when working around them. There are multiple sensors that need to be tripped and the BCM needs to command deployment.
 

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The airbags are on top of the dash and aren't easy to trigger when working around them. There are multiple sensors that need to be tripped and the BCM needs to command deployment.
On GMs the "BCM" has nothing to do with airbag deployment, it's all within the SDM (Sensing Diagnostic Module)

True, on modern airbag systems as used in the Volt the "remote" crash sensors such as those under the hood or on the rad support will not on their own trigger a deployment, however mishandling the SDM (located in the center console) while connected to the main airbag harness CAN trigger an inadvertent deployment. (and yes it has happened)

Most of the concern when "digging around" in the vicinity of an airbag is the potential of inadvertent deployment due to unknown wiring damage that might exist and manipulated during service. All the airbag needs is B+ on one circuit and GND on the other and a bag is out and in your face. (the SDM does not need to be involved) Yes it initially is delivered towards the windshield but is designed to deflect rearward off of the glass

The best defence when servicing areas in the proximity of the airbags, crash sensors, or SDM is to follow the GM service information steps to properly and when called upon to properly disable the airbag system completely (or zoned disabling). The take no prisoners approach is to shut the car off, remove all FOBs, and disconnect battery negative. Wait 2 minutes. Work away

Which is exactly what is listed as "STEP 1" in the blower motor replacement procedure, (due to the proximity) which shouldn't be ignored
WOT
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I installed the new blower yesterday. Its not difficult technically, but it is difficult physically. I'm relatively fit (185 lbs, 6'2"), but its pretty difficult to get under there and get your arms in the right positions. Amazingly its even harder than working under the dash of my tiny 72 MG Midget, the same "sit backwards on the seat then lay on your back with your legs in there air" trick doesn't work as well in the Volt. You'll also need a 7mm and 5.5mm ratchet socket, which is I think the only time I've ever used my 5.5mm socket.

The bottom trim panel is held in by three screws, one visible in the front, one on the front right that's partially hidden by the right rocker panel trim, and one in the back that's recessed and hard to see. You don't need to remove the right rocker trim to remove the screw, you can push the corner in enough to get to the screw. Once you have that off, there's one more screw in the floor air duct, and once that's out you have to wrestle with the duct a bit to remove it, but it'll pop out. You don't have to remove it completely to get the blower motor out, but personally I couldn't reach the blower plug without removing the duct. Installation is the reverse. Probably took 30 minutes, and I could probably do it in 10 minutes if I had to do it again.

The new blower definitely works better than the old one, more air and less noise. I am occasionally still having an issue where the fan runs full speed, but I'm not always getting as much air as I should. I think there might be an issue where the doors that control the flow of air might not be opening and closing entirely.
 

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I know this is an old thread but did this post include pictures or links? Im going to replace the blower on my '15 Volt this week. Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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Follow few step if you ca use tools
1.DISABLE AIRBAGS
2.Remove the instrument panel lower trim panel insulator - right side. Refer to Instrument Panel Lower Trim Panel Insulator Replacement.
3. Remove the floor air outlet duct. Refer to Floor Front Air Outlet Duct Replacement - Right Side.
4. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
5. Remove fasteners securing motor.
6. Remove motor.
 
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