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The clicking is back. It's only when I take my foot off the accelerator pedal (I drive in L only). So instead of going back to the dealer, I'm taking the Volt to my nearby trusted all-purpose garage and having them "torque my nuts". Is this a bad idea? What's the worst thing that could happen if I just ignore the sound, and pretend that I can't hear it? Will the bottom of the car fall off? Is this a real problem or an imaginary one? I really don't know how much time and money to devote to/waste on this subtle, harmless little clicking noise....
It might not be a bad idea to get new washers and nuts and search this forum for the right torquing procedure. I seem to recall you had to torque to a certain tightness, loosen a little then torque to the final spec, but I'm not 100% sure. Another option is to use this opportunity to buy yourself a big torque wrench and the right sized socket to augment the tools you own (though I prefer to bring my vehicle in for some attractive service manager of the fairer sex torque my nuts)

As for whether this is necessary, anything in the drivetrain and suspension that makes noises means that something is wearing out or loose. Over time parts may break or fall off. I'd much rather have something superficial fall off (muffler, bumper, antenna) than something integral to keeping your car on the road. So don't ignore this.
 

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The clicking is back. It's only when I take my foot off the accelerator pedal (I drive in L only). So instead of going back to the dealer, I'm taking the Volt to my nearby trusted all-purpose garage and having them "torque my nuts". Is this a bad idea? What's the worst thing that could happen if I just ignore the sound, and pretend that I can't hear it? Will the bottom of the car fall off? Is this a real problem or an imaginary one? I really don't know how much time and money to devote to/waste on this subtle, harmless little clicking noise....
If torqueing the nut and adding the new nut and washer does not fix the clicking, I would not ignore that.

On mine it turned out some of the transmission mounts where broken...

Someone reported it leading to an axle break, not something you want to happen while driving on the highway...
 

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I have had the clicking noise on both sides of my 2014. First the passenger side and done early enough retorquing the nut made it go away.
Then the driver side started some year or so after. Retorquing it DID not make it go away. I had my mechanic replace the washer and nut.
Now if I were to do it on my own I would spend the $15 on the new 36mm nut (was 32mm) and replace the existing nut in hopes it stops the clicking rather than immediately spend $25 bucks on parts but more so probably pay the dealer $200+_ to replace it. At worst you pay it anyway with the extra nut first attempted that cost $15 more...but if that at first attempt fixes it you avoid the dealer rip off! No clicking on either side now for months at least. PS: you can torque the existing 32MM nut that is on the volt by simply taking the center hub cover off but to put on the new nut 36MM you have to take tyou have to take the wheel off as the nut of course is now bigger and the center hub hole is no longer big enough.
 

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Reading this thread prompted me to post these specs for torqueing the axle nut.

I had this same clicking, and enlisted a friend with a big torque wrench to apply same. As a precaution, when turning the wrench he took the car out of park and engaged the parking brake. He did not want to risk damaging a pawl in a gearbox, if one is there.

It has stopped the noise from recurring, two years on now.
 

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I used a big drift through the rotor fins so it hit up against the caliper bracket to keep everything from turning when I torqued the axle nut.
 

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To those of you torquing down axle nuts...take a look at my issue, this washer deformed so badly it threw a bad ABS speed sensor code... You all (IMHO) need washer replacements.
20200321_160551.jpg

UPDATE: The washer cut into my wheel speed sensor and killed it. I observed a groove cut in the plastic, my delco replacement has no groove... I think the washer kept getting more and more deformed till it killed the sensor.

Bonus content for my fellow volt owners...grab this PDF. It explains all the codes and how they are generated:

https://gsi.ext.gm.com/gmspo/mode6/pdf/2018/18OBDG02%20Hybrid%20Diagnostics.pdf
 

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I've had the click on the ELR since I bought it in November. Told the service manager yesterday that I need the new washers and nuts ordered in and installed. If they won't do it, I'll do myself, even though i still have powertrain warranty.
 

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i still have powertrain warranty.
FYI that washer is part of the powertrain... You can look it up on the parts diagrams, it's a drive shaft washer. I saw somewhere else on the forums that dealer charged them to replace this part...Hub assembly is NOT covered under powertrain warranty, but drive shaft assembly (of which the washer is a part of) is covered... If dealer gives you @#%$ then escalate to Cheverolet customer service.
 

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Jay, the washer costs $3.65 at your local Chevy Parts department. You will need a little grease on back of bearing race and some swivel sockets or large 21mm Z wrench to get the top hub assembly bolt off...There is tiny clearance on the lower strut bolt. Harbor freight has a nice impact swivel socket set I used.
 

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I have a 2011, with 93K miles, last year the clicking started, I replaced the axel nuts and it didn't help,
so this June, we retorqued the nuts and lubricated the brake pad springs and the clicking stopped.
 

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I have a 2011, with 93K miles, last year the clicking started, I replaced the axel nuts and it didn't help,
so this June, we retorqued the nuts and lubricated the brake pad springs and the clicking stopped.
The real question is whether you enjoyed torquing your nuts. Sadly, Paula, who regularly torqued my nuts, is no longer a service advisor...moved to the business office claiming less stress there. It's been a few years since I've had any torque my nuts...
 

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I was trying to convince my self that the noise had always been there and was a solenoid or relay or something like that -- but then my wife was in the car with me and she said, "What's that clicking noise? Coming from the left side?"

It sounds to me like a single click when I take my foot off of, or put my foot onto, the accelerator pedal. (I drive in L, always.) I can't really tell where it's coming from -- but it's not an "interior" noise and it's not the rattle that I can't seem to ever make go away from the right side of the hatchback (yes I know about the little stop that you can screw in or out).

Should I call "my" Volt Advisor before I take it in to the dealer? To "pave the way" and hopefully ensure that it's covered under the drive train warranty? (That is assuming that this clicking noise is the same one that others describe here as indicating that an axle requires a slightly different washer/nut.)
Be careful driving in Low range. I drove in L Range for a couple years and and damaged the transmission. Lucky it was still under warranty. (70k miles) GM replaced it with a new transmission, but only after 3 months of attempting to repair the trans. Have 160k miles now and battery charge is still 90% of original charge. 2012 volt...love the car.
 

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Did the dealer give you some evidence that driving in "L" caused damage to the transmission? There really isn't a transmission on our cars but let's call it that. Nowhere in the manual that I can find says anything about not driving in "L" and many people drive in that mode everyday.

I can't help but think the service department didn't know the cause of the failure and as such made up a story to save face.

I don't believe that driving in low would be the cause of the failure.
 

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My 2013 makes this loud POP noise coming from somewhere around the rear hatch that sounds like some kind of heat expansion or contraction noise.
I happens randomly, often even when the car is stationary, parked in the garage.
 

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My 2013 makes this loud POP noise coming from somewhere around the rear hatch that sounds like some kind of heat expansion or contraction noise.
I happens randomly, often even when the car is stationary, parked in the garage.
Have you tried raising the rubber bumpers on each corner back there? Turn them up a revolution or so but not so far that the hatch is difficult to close.
 

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My 2013 makes this loud POP noise coming from somewhere around the rear hatch that sounds like some kind of heat expansion or contraction noise.
I happens randomly, often even when the car is stationary, parked in the garage.
This is a well-known issue that is caused by the plastic rear spoiler expanding and contracting differently from the hatch. People who have encountered it have reported that it sounds like an acorn or something hitting the back of the car. I believe it has been solved by tightening the bolts that hold the spoiler down and maybe an easier solution of spraying a silicone spay lube around the contact surface where it hits the hatch, allowing a bit to seep under, and then wiping off the excess.

See Poping noise in rear when driving?? (the misspelling comes from the thread title).
 

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Have you tried raising the rubber bumpers on each corner back there? Turn them up a revolution or so but not so far that the hatch is difficult to close.
This is a well-known issue that is caused by the plastic rear spoiler expanding and contracting differently from the hatch. People who have encountered it have reported that it sounds like an acorn or something hitting the back of the car. I believe it has been solved by tightening the bolts that hold the spoiler down and maybe an easier solution of spraying a silicone spay lube around the contact surface where it hits the hatch, allowing a bit to seep under, and then wiping off the excess.

See Poping noise in rear when driving?? (the misspelling comes from the thread title).
Thanks guys! - this is exactly how Bentbiker describes :) Sometimes so loud it startles you.
Make sense, altho it only happens on the black volt ( i have three). Probably the color, or the bumper heights as Sly Bob suggested
 

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I have heard a clicking noise from the front wheel, driver's side, for about a year in my '13 Volt when I make a low speed right hand turn. When the car goes straight, it stops. No noise heard during a left hand turn. It is also intermittent. I took the car to two dealers and they could not hear the problem, so they did nothing. Brakes are good. I'm thinking it has something to do with wheel bearings or a CV joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
UPDATE: The clicking is still there. Perhaps a bit worse. I don't feel inclined to do anything more about it. Maybe just try to learn to love it. Seriously, is there any evidence that this is really anything more than a "cosmetic" issue? I haven't read here (or anywhere) about anybody's Volt breaking apart on the highway, etc., as a result of this.
 
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