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Of course, torquing your own nuts is just wrong.
Yes, for example, sometimes you might think you need to torque your nuts, when what you really need is to tighten your ball joints. It takes a pro to know the difference, and when exactly to do what.
 

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Yes, for example, sometimes you might think you need to torque your nuts, when what you really need is to tighten your ball joints. It takes a pro to know the difference, and when exactly to do what.
As long as her name is Roxy, Bambi, or AmberLily.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The dealership found "the CV shaft to have gone bad (driver side)" and replaced it under drive train warranty. No more clicking sound. And I got a free cup of coffee and a free 27-point inspection out of the deal!
 
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I also had the clicking. I jacked up the right side only leaving the left in contact with ground and only high enough to get tire off ground. I rotated wheel until it was stopped by the parking prawl in the transmission eliminating drive-line lash. Then once against that I rotated a little further. Click! Then I rotated the other way and pushed against the prawl again. Click!. I removed wheels and pulled center caps. Reinstalled wheels without center caps and torqued the axle nuts. They where maybe 100 ft lbs each side on intial test. Took for drive and the clicking is gone. If it comes back I will do the the whole remove and replace washers and axle nuts. Pretty easy and I didn't have to give up to the dealer. 60,059 on my 2013.
 

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Pretty much same as everyone here. Always driving in "L" - I got the click on deceleration and the clack on acceleration (or visa versa). Drove me crazy! I had read another thread about possible motor mounts. With that info, I brought car in to my local mechanic at around 60K miles (few months ago). He said he wasn't sure what it was. Had 2 possible solutions, both of which were a little pricey (sorry I can't remember exactly what they were - I think one was a mount). So we left it alone for the moment.

I came back about 10,000 later at 70K miles (sound was more obvious) and rocked it from Reverse to Drive in the parking lot with him outside. He clearly heard it in the passenger wheel. Same as above - they tightened nut, nice and quiet again! No charge (I love my mechanics).

Wish I would have found this thread first! If (when) it loosens again, I'll definitely replace the nut & washer as suggested.

Thank you all...
 

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I have the same issue with my 2015 (about 62k miles), I usually hear it most when I'm driving at low speed in L, and take my foot off the accelerator pedal. Thanks for posting this information!
 

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I've had it for a couple of months and am taking it in tomorrow for a tire rotation and to have them fix the click. I'm usually pretty happy with my dealer's Volt knowledge, so it will be interesting to see how much 'splaining I'll have to do.
 

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And so it starts...

Didn't have to explain much to the dealer--I like them a lot, and they've done this fix several times before (hub nut washers). However, they called me and said the extended warranty carrier needs to inspect the issue before they'll approve coverage. Even though this dealer is the approved dealer for the policy, they don't trust them. And the inspector can't come out until Tuesday. I could do a rental at my own risk, and potentially not get reimbursed if they don't ultimately approve the repair. In some ways I hope they don't, since I know a good lawyer I can hire cheap.

You just know there's a confidential memo somewhere in which they've analyzed how much more money they make if they try to put customers off for a few days until they give up.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
THE CLICK IS BACK, double-drat it. Please tell me what to tell the dealer to do now.

Well, IT'S BACK. Louder than before, too. So it clearly wasn't caused by "the CV shaft to have gone bad," which the dealer service department thought. Please help me avoid too many more trips to the dealer! When I call them to tell them their first attempt to fix this failed, what parts or repair should I specifically suggest they order to "replace the nut & washer", as per several posts above? Please be as explicit and non-jargonny as possible, I am not all that mechanically aware. Thanks.
 

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The Chevy service guy told me that it's the washers that are defective. For whatever reason, they disintegrate and need to be replaced. This helps explain why some who just re-torque their nuts (never get tired of saying that) end up with the problem coming back after a few months.
 

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The Chevy service guy told me that it's the washers that are defective. For whatever reason, they disintegrate and need to be replaced. This helps explain why some who just re-torque their nuts (never get tired of saying that) end up with the problem coming back after a few months.
It's not "retorque your nuts." It's "getting your nuts torqued"....
preferably by an attractive member of the opposite sex (or same sex if that's the way you roll)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I bit the bullet and made an appointment at the dealer for diagnostic and "possible re-torquing of the axle nuts", per the service manager. If anyone can be specific about the defective washers that need replacing so I can tell them properly about this when I take the car in next week, I'd appreciate it.
 

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My Right Front was loose, I re-torqued it without removing the wheel by just popping the center cap off. I did not replace the nut or washer at the time. The Re-torque lasted about a week before clicking again.

I went ahead and bought replacement washers and nuts, but have yet to do the replacement. However, when I get around to it I will also use a high strength Red loctite. Not to worry, if they ever need to be removed for a hub replacement a little heat from a hair dryer or propane torch will liquify the loctite for easy removal.

I highly recommend using the Loctite for a “belt and suspenders” approach too ensure a long term fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I took it back this morning and they re-torqued the nuts. (I had explained as best I could to the service manager about the defective washer issue, but he said they'd try this first.) So, perhaps it will last a while, let's see....
 

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I bought a 6 sided deep impact wrench socket and torqued my own nuts ?
Did not have to remove the wheels, just the caps ?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Capobvious, I took it to Sunshine Chevrolet, which is where I bought the car. I haven't had much done to the car, but what I have had done, they've done it.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
The clicking is back. It's only when I take my foot off the accelerator pedal (I drive in L only). So instead of going back to the dealer, I'm taking the Volt to my nearby trusted all-purpose garage and having them "torque my nuts". Is this a bad idea? What's the worst thing that could happen if I just ignore the sound, and pretend that I can't hear it? Will the bottom of the car fall off? Is this a real problem or an imaginary one? I really don't know how much time and money to devote to/waste on this subtle, harmless little clicking noise....
 
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